Advice: Fix Or Sell - '06 LX470 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 26, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
15
Location
TX
Morning, All.

I am currently a happy yet concerned owner of a 2006 LX 470 in Houston, TX.
Car has ~190,000 miles on it and has treated me very well since I purchased it in 2017 after a single owner, and it's my daily driver.
It's the pearl white and has been only used for city and highway driving.
However, I've been chasing road vibrations for the better part of a year, and just found the stickied thread on the FAQ regarding front end vibrations. (I'll perform those recommendations here in the near future.)

Should I sell this car (ideally to someone that is able and willing to keep it up), or keep it and maintain it? I'd be performing as much work as I can myself because I simply don't trust the shops around here; however, I am unaware of what further preventative maintenance to perform and how to diagnose it. I am aware of the maintenance list in the FAQ sticky, but do not fully understand the extent of labor and tools commitment involved or where to start.

Assume that all work takes me about 2-3x longer than a "normal" Ih8Mud wrencher. The prospect of putting 40 hours and/or +$5k per year into my daily driver keeps me up at night.

Current State:
  • Goodyear Wrangler Tires (285/65/18) w/ ~50K miles (because they look cool)
  • 190K miles
  • New CV Axles and hub bearings (not spindle bearings)
Issues:
  • Vibrations from ~45 mph - 80 mph
  • All tires scalloped from vibrations + rotations
  • P0020 code flagging VSC etc on dash
  • Ball joint boots shot
  • Likely bushings in control arms shot
  • AHC undoubtedly needs replenishing or replacement/upgrade
  • Speakers blown
  • Window motor controllers need to be fixed, rear windows malfunction when on "auto" raise
  • Front seats slightly torn
  • Missing small plastic piece on OEM roof rack
  • Cosmetics from rubbing, hood paint chipped from who knows what
Services Performed:
  • 190,000 Miles (DIY)
    • CV Axle replacement (took me nearly 30 hours to perform since I haven't done this level of work before lol)
    • Brake Hub Bearing replacement
    • Both according to TSM
    • Code clearing - Haven't seen P0440 come back (yet)
  • 185,000 Miles (Clear Choice Lexus in Houston)
    • Alignment
    • Valve Cover Gaskets, Tube Seals, Washer replacement
    • They spotted the blown CV boots and assumed wheel bearings were shot, suggested those were sources of vibrations. I declined that service from them though.
  • 182,000 Miles (Master Car Care)
    • New Fuel Pump and Filter
    • New Battery
    • New gas cap (P0440 and P0445 code)
  • 170,000 Miles (Lexus Clear Lake*)
    • Standard 175,000 mile service (supposedly)
      • Brake inspection
      • Battery health check
      • Tire check
      • Tire Rotation
      • Alignment
      • Vacuum and clean
      • No joint checks (lmao)
    • Tires balanced
    • *Vibrations started before I brought the car to this service. I do not have confidence in this shop, btw - they recommended I purchase all new shocks for the vehicle because they were leaking. When I told them to check the conditions of the AHC system, they had no idea what I was talking about.
  • 146,000 (Meineke)
    • Hood Shocks
    • Belt Tensioner Pulley
    • Serpentine Belt
    • Belt Tensioner
  • 140,000 (Duggy's*)
    • Timing Belt
    • Water pump
    • Idler Pulley
    • Tensioner
    • Crank Seal
    • Thermostat
    • Thermostat Seal
    • Serpentine Belt
    • Heater T's
    • *My tensioner catastrophically failed ~10 months after this service. Did Duggy's actually replace my tensioner and pulleys or just say they did? I don't know but I'm not going back.
  • 140,000 (Memorial Car Care)
    • Goodyear Wrangler 285/65/18 + Balance - no idea if they used the correct tooling
    • New Valve Stems
  • Everything before this was just fluid work, oil changes etc. New rear windows because my car got broken into.
 
Last edited:
- You have a nearly 20 year old vehicle with a list of 20 year old vehicle issues
- You don’t self-identify as a DIYer
- You don’t trust local mechanics and you don’t like the idea of spending what they cost.

I think you’ve answered your own question.
 
Wow, amazing.
I think your transition has been successful.
Sell it to somebody who will take care of it and then go spend 120 grand on a Jeep.
Job done.
 
After the considerate advice of this forum, I've decided to forego sleep and consume the almighty DIY Ways of Being.
I am...becoming

william-blake-the-great-red-dragon-and-the-woman-clothed-in-sun-139182b1.jpg
 
After the considerate advice of this forum, I've decided to forego sleep and consume the almighty DIY Ways of Being.
I am...becoming

View attachment 3941579
Well, welcome to the inner sanctum then. A couple of reasons why this is the right call:

- ‘Mud is one of the best online car communities out there. I am (and have been) a member of about a dozen, and I think only miata.net has as good a “helpfulness quotient”

- LC is a great learning vehicle. Overbuilt, durable, forgiving, OE parts are relatively affordable, good aftermarket, and endlessly customizable.

- You don’t need to DIY it all. You can just get yourself to a level of having a confident technical discussion with a mechanic to evaluate their skill. More of a “UIY” - Understand it Yourself

And a pro tip: you’ll do a lot of searching, and AI is your friend. I almost always start in ChatGPT and cross reference forum posts with YouTube videos and tech sites. The XenForo platform search function available here is not very modern, unfortunately.
 
TEQ in Houston is my trusted go- to for anything I can’t do myself. Maybe worth a visit.
 
Goodyear wranglers with 50k miles on them could be your vibration problem right there, not the suspension. Plenty of people (myself included) still rolling around on stock original suspension components at 150k+ miles. In my case truck still rides smooth. Get some brand new Michelin Defenders on there.
 
And don’t be afraid to ask for and take help from local cruiser heads. For a lot of us it is a labor of love, and we enjoy helping others and teaching them how to DIY.
 
When’s the last time the tires were balanced? That solved my vibe problem at those speeds.
 
as others have said, your making the right call.

I hear ya w/r trusting mechanics. advice here: join local lc club. do enough of your own rearch to "know enough to be dangerous". embrace the forum, ebrace AI (i'm a gemini man myself).

do the above and you will be as knowledgable/smart as 80-90% of lc owners (note: the upper 10% (ala Trapper/2001/swb45/cruiseroutfitter/that-other-guy-who-just-beats-the hell-out of his rig/any forum posters over 3k....that rairified atmospher is un-up-tanium for us mere mortals)). you will gain the knowledge to "call bull**** and/or say "convince me i'm wrong with authority"".

You still need a good source of scratch (as with any car).

go forth, young lc jedi and conquer.

that ain't my story and I'm not sticking to it ☮️
 
Check the road force on your tires. You may need to ask the shop to let you know what the numbers are. I have 2 tires with excessive road force so I leave them on the rear wheels and have very little vibration. Also, check your steering rack bushings for wear.
 
If you already did a CV axle swap, you're capable of tackling this stuff.

As others said, your issues are just a common 100 series at this point. If you want to drive an older car, you need to budget $5k or more per year in misc "stuff". Bushings, ball joints, steering rack, alternator, radiator, AHC service, etc...

The list will never be zero. :)
 

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