Advantages of a FF rear axel? (1 Viewer)

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No worries, I was like you before I actually drove trucks with the E-lockers. Now I am left with a rear 97 FZJ locking diff(180,000 miles), and an 01 Tacoma locking diff (92,000 miles) sitting in my garage (both needing bearings). Toyota replaced my Tacoma rear diff (with a new one) 10,000 miles ago and it still is sticky. As is the rear in my FZJ which I changed myself with a new one, which also sticks. They are ~$900 with the TLCA discount new from Toyota. Just make sure you have the e-lockers engaged before you get stuck so the splines can line up for them to lock.



Sort of off the topic, but...



Thanks for chiming in with this concern...No, I have not personally used the e-locker in any of my trucks in the past. I recognize the ARB as a great product, but at this time would like to try the e-locker. The typical problem areas with the ARB seem to be centered around the air supply to the third failing (usually install related) or the seal/o-ring in the differential leaking (not common, but still shows up once in a while). The e-locker may be slower engaging, but for my use I can deal with that. If it sticks, I can likely fix it without major drama. I'm also stuck on staying as Toyota-centric as I can...for no better reason than "I want to."

Regarding 35s, it is not likely in the foreseeable future that this truck will see taller than 31s, at least until I run through the first set of tires. This will likely take a few years. I am aware of the possibility of twisting the splines and sticking the axle in the e-locker, it is unlikely I would have to worry about it, though.

Last reason...The e-locked third can likely be resold for what I purchased it for. To resell an ARB I would take a significant loss. This would change of course if I were regearing right away, but I'm not.

Back on topic... (Sorry...:D)
 
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Get some cable lockers. They lockup instantly and unlock almost instantly. :D
 
Get some cable lockers. They lockup instantly and unlock almost instantly. :D

I didn't think they were that easy to find, nor economical to source...or are they? It seems the work is not much more, if all the parts are there.

Or are you just trying to make us jealous? :mad: I see that's what you are using...:hmm:

We should really get out of Tim's thread...unless he is done with it. :whoops: Over 20 posts and only two are his. :)
 
We should really get out of Tim's thread...unless he is done with it. :whoops: Over 20 posts and only two are his. :)

no worries I come here to read and learn.
 
listen to Andrew... before spending upwards of $800.00 on a "E-locker" invest in an arb.....alot better/stronger/more reliable/cheaper(no special axles to buy).
I know an e-locker is cool because it's Toyota... but FWIW... I'd buy a ARB.
Dave
 
listen to Andrew... before spending upwards of $800.00 on a "E-locker" invest in an arb.....alot better/stronger/more reliable/cheaper(no special axles to buy).
I know an e-locker is cool because it's Toyota... but FWIW... I'd buy a ARB.
Dave

Thanks for the advice. :)

I'm not so much into the all-Toyota thing for cool factor, though. I doubt anyone would notice unless I told them. Also, not argueing, but is the ARB really cheaper? By the time it is installed, gears set up, and the few extra parts for the air lines, solenoids, and assuming an air source is not already in place, it adds up $$.

I do not plan to pay for an axle, I'll have the existing axle splines lengthened by my brother in the machine shop. Does that sound reasonable? Or am I in left field with that plan?

Reliability could go either way, can't it? Or are the 80 series E-lockers that bad? I agree, the ARB has a reputation for more strength.

Time to read up some more...

Thanks,

Bob
 
bugger. floaters are ace because if you smash a diff, you can pull the driveshaft and axles out and drive home!!
 
bugger. floaters are ace because if you smash a diff, you can pull the driveshaft and axles out and drive home!!

And that's the reason why I'm going to be buying a full floater at some point in the future.
 
I installed FF rear on my 60. Swapped in the thirds from my original axles. Did the swap when we installed the OME suspension.

The 60 axle is narrower than the 80 axle, so with out a lot of work, it won't work in a 60. It don't think the FF is STRONGER than a SF, but it is better for the reasons mentioned.

2543FJ60_Step_Sliders-small.JPG
 
With the full floating rear axle you don't have to grind the gears to make the crosspin fit. With that being said do you think it is worth buying a FF rear end versus grinding the gears a hair to make that pin fit? Sorry to get off path a little but I thought it was relevant. Thanks
 

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