Adjusting Valves on 1FZ ??

[SierraMtns]

I have looked and can't find any detailed write-ups on adjusting the valves. I am cleaning and replacing most of the EGR stuff to get that darn PO401 code to go away. I was thinking since I am in there that I might as well pull the valve cover off and adjust the valves. I have done it once before on a 22RE but that was about 10 years ago.

Thanks for the help.

 

[NLXTACY]

Easiest to just follow the ECM because its a few steps. But in a nut shell:

• disconnect the heater valve and engine wiring from firewall (this just makes life easier)
• remove valve cover
• set Cylinder one (very front) to TDC
• make sure timing marks on camshaft are aligned or else it means you are a full revolution off
• check when cold: intake (.006-.0010) exhaust (.010-.041) but there is a specific order and not all are checked. Need to find info.
• turn crank 360 deg and align with "0" mark
• now you are checking the other valves you didn't check 360deg ago. Again, there is a sequence but I can't think of it offhand

....hmm. This might take a long time to write out and I don't have all the info in my head. Let me just find the PDF for you.

EDIT: Here is the Valve Adjustment PDF

 

[bajaphile]

The factory service manual (FSM) outlines it pretty well. Try searching for thr electronic version of it here and take a look. Unfortunately adjusting the valves isn't as easy as tightening or loosening a set screw. You need to use shims.

 

[SierraMtns]

Easiest to just follow the ECM because its a few steps. But in a nut shell:

• disconnect the heater valve and engine wiring from firewall (this just makes life easier)
• remove valve cover
• set Cylinder one (very front) to TDC
• make sure timing marks on camshaft are aligned or else it means you are a full revolution off
• check when cold: intake (.006-.0010) exhaust (.010-.041) but there is a specific order and not all are checked. Need to find info.
• turn crank 360 deg and align with "0" mark
• now you are checking the other valves you didn't check 360deg ago. Again, there is a sequence but I can't think of it offhand

....hmm. This might take a long time to write out and I don't have all the info in my head. Let me just find the PDF for you.

EDIT: Here is the Valve Adjustment PDF

Cool thanks this is what I was looking for.

 

[86tuning]

If the engine isn't noisy then consider just inspecting your valve clearances. Write everything down and then decide whether or not you want to do the adjustment.

When we do Toyota valve clearance inspection we start with the audible inspection. Sometimes we use a stethoscope and listen for the errant valve.

Then pull the valve cover and write down the clearances. We use a sharpie marker and write it in the valve cover gasket surface as we measure them all. Then decide if the 0.002" out-of-spec valve is worth pulling the cams to adjust. Yank cams, measure shims, order parts, wait for parts, install, re-check.

Shortcut would be to find a stack of used shims which are every bit as good as new ones. Then swap to your hearts content. Sell the stack to the next guy who's doing the next valve adjustment.

 

[NLXTACY]

Shortcut would be to find a stack of used shims which are every bit as good as new ones. Then swap to your hearts content. Sell the stack to the next guy who's doing the next valve adjustment.

Highly recommended. Kruiser Karma goes a long way

 

[OGBeno]

Toyota recommended intervals for valve adjustment on the 1FZ-FE is each 100,000 KMs (62,137 miles).

I adjusted mine for the first time at 174,XXX.

I am at 251,XXX. I probably won't touch them again for another 50k miles.

These are very under utilized engines.

 

[ericbirk]

Easiest to just follow the ECM because its a few steps. But in a nut shell:

• disconnect the heater valve and engine wiring from firewall (this just makes life easier)
• remove valve cover
• set Cylinder one (very front) to TDC
• make sure timing marks on camshaft are aligned or else it means you are a full revolution off
• check when cold: intake (.006-.0010) exhaust (.010-.041) but there is a specific order and not all are checked. Need to find info.
• turn crank 360 deg and align with "0" mark
• now you are checking the other valves you didn't check 360deg ago. Again, there is a sequence but I can't think of it offhand

....hmm. This might take a long time to write out and I don't have all the info in my head. Let me just find the PDF for you.


EDIT: Here is the Valve Adjustment PDF

Exhaust should be 0.010-0.014, FSM typo too or there is a HUGE gap and very noisy valves.
I also noticed they overly complicated the which valves to check and when rotation. Just point the cam lobe straight up and check, can't go wrong that way.

 

[86tuning]

Exhaust should be 0.010-0.014, FSM typo too or there is a HUGE gap and very noisy valves.
I also noticed they overly complicated the which valves to check and when rotation. Just point the cam lobe straight up and check, can't go wrong that way.

True. But the service manual shows you how to do it with one engine rotation. Do half of the valves, rotate engine, do the other half of the valves.

 

[ericbirk]

True. But the service manual shows you how to do it with one engine rotation. Do half of the valves, rotate engine, do the other half of the valves.

True I was just thinking for simplicity is all.

 

[fixitdude74]

I know this is old thread, I have just done my valves, and the only reason i did is the previous owner had a new head fitted and the mech didn't put the correct shims in, so i researched, bought the special tools for compressing the valve lifters and the other tool for holding the lifter whilsts removing/refitting the shims, i did it by having the cam lobe at 180° to the shim for each one, measure/record/calculate new shim to bring each one within tolerance, motor is quiet now, and my pocket still has money in it. And i did not have to remove camshafts.

 

[CJF]

^^^
One of the best first posts I've seen.

Welcome.