Adjusting valves cold on a 3fe

[FrankTorres]

Just poped the valve cover and getting ready to adjust the valves and notice that motor needs to be hot.
Well, upon removing the 2 rubber intake hoses they ripped and were torn in pices (new parts in tomorrow). So I can't run the motor at this time...

Has anyone adjusted the valves cold on a 3fe?
It shows intake at .008" and .014 on a hot motor.
I was thinking .006" and .012 on a cold motor.

Suggestions

 

[photogod]

I don't know jack about valve adjustments but if the engine is cold wouldn't your measurements be greater rather than less in a cold engine? I would think when the engine is warm the heat would cause things to expand and decrease the clearance? That would make it .010 and .016 with a cold engine? As I said I know nothing and I am just throwing this out there to get feed back and learn something.

 

[cruiser88]

just check it cold run it then check the hot setting if your still unsure do it all over again. ive even done it while its ran.ouch that was dads idea

 

[FrankTorres]

just check it cold run it then check the hot setting if your still unsure do it all over again. ive even done it while its ran.ouch that was dads idea

...thats what I'm going to end up doing, checking clearence after I get it running again, but adjusting while running is not something I'll be doing.


On my 22re, cold adjustment is .002" smaller... maybe with a pushrods motor it would be like the opposite like photogod saids.

comments...

 

[CJF]

I don't know jack about valve adjustments but if the engine is cold wouldn't your measurements be greater rather than less in a cold engine? I would think when the engine is warm the heat would cause things to expand and decrease the clearance? That would make it .010 and .016 with a cold engine? As I said I know nothing and I am just throwing this out there to get feed back and learn something.

Well, here we go with another physics discussion if ya'll want: Short answer is that in theory, and almost always in practice, heating causes everything to increase: all metals such as bolts/nuts/cylinders/pistons/piston rings/pushrods etc. as well as the gaps between them. Takes a while to wrap your head around, but makes sense once you really think about it.

Frank, please do let us know the results of your cold vs. hot measurements. My money's on an increased gap when hot, but hey, we'll see!

Cheers,

Curtis

 

[RavenTai]

ductape/electrical tape can get your running long enough to get the motor warm befoe your new parts get in.

some seam to think tape is a permentant fix.

 

[BFletch]

You can adjust the valves cold, but you are going the wrong way with your feeler guages. .006 and .012 would make your valves way to tight. you need to simply add .001 to both of the measurements (Which should give you .009 and .015.

Photogod was right in that the engine parts will expand when warm so thus adding to the clearance is necessary.

My rule of thumb with the feeler guages is that you should be able to push the feeler guage between the valve spring cap and rocker arm without having the guage bend.


Good luck!!

 

[FrankTorres]

Thanks for everybody’s input...

I adjusted them to .008 & .014 cold; only 2 exhaust valves were a little too tight.
All other valves check out with slight drag.

I'll save my tape and wait till new intake hoses come in and do it again.

TIP:
I recommend anyone doing this get (make) a remote starter to turn the motor, so much easier than any other method.
I marked where #1 and #6 are on the distributor.
With the cap off and the rotor on, I could see when the motor rotated to #1 TDC and #6 BTDC

 

[PHAEDRUS]

Personally I like to use the power steering pulley and a 17 mm socket, if yor belts are teh correct tension you can turn it pretty easily wiht the plugs out.

 

[cruiser88]

i always got a different reading cold to hot at the inital cold setting i would set it 2 thousands over get it hot and check it again and usually i was real close for the hot setting