How do I take up the slack (excessive travel) in my clutch pedal? Is there a hydrallic adjustment? I didn't see a screw adjustment under the dash.
Thanks,
Edward
Thanks,
Edward
Adjusting Clutch Pedal Playout
- Thread starter Bartimmo
- Start date
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But doesn't that just control the amount of throw for the throw out bearing? My clutch pedal had a long smooth feel to it, but then I put the spring back on the clutch fork to pull it back off the pressure plate and it feels weird. When I push my clutch pedal, it takes no force at all and then the last inch or two it engages the clutch and then hits the floor. Do I just need to play with slave cylinder rod or is there a pedal adjustment?
Jeremy
Jeremy
# 2 post ------> https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=157274
There is adjustment on the link between the clutch master and the pedal, but typically, that does not need to be messed with, provided a replacement master was installed properly when it was changed.
If when the spring is attached to the clutch fork, returning the slave cylinder to rest, you have more than an 1/8” of play between the throw out bearing and the pressure plate, then you need to lengthen the actuation rod from the slave cylinder.
Who knows if you have the original/proper length actuation rod in the slave cylinder currently on your truck. I have seen many after market slave cylinders over the years that provide a variety of different length rods for the same application. That is why I use OEM pieces.
Something else that effects if there is enough travel with the slave cylinder, is the fact that the pressure plate moves away from the throw out bearing and closer to the engine when the flywheel is resurfaced. Who knows how many times that has been done and how much material was removed each time.
If when the spring is attached to the clutch fork, returning the slave cylinder to rest, you have more than an 1/8” of play between the throw out bearing and the pressure plate, then you need to lengthen the actuation rod from the slave cylinder.
Who knows if you have the original/proper length actuation rod in the slave cylinder currently on your truck. I have seen many after market slave cylinders over the years that provide a variety of different length rods for the same application. That is why I use OEM pieces.
Something else that effects if there is enough travel with the slave cylinder, is the fact that the pressure plate moves away from the throw out bearing and closer to the engine when the flywheel is resurfaced. Who knows how many times that has been done and how much material was removed each time.
the slave cylinder is different from gas trucks to diesels, maybe it was the wrong one before, and is the right one now? or vice versa? I just changed mine, both master and slave, with exact replacements, and it still felt much different....with the adjustments the same (I set them up identical by counting threads when i took the old one out).There is adjustment both top and bottom, to set up end play, don't know if geometry is affected...I just got used to it, it actuates much highewr now, probbaly because I have good seals and no blow by in a worn slave...maybe yours has gone thru similar??
I think that it might be a combination of both adjustment needed, and possibly the flywheel has been surfaced to many times. I am going to try to adjust the slave rod putting the throwout bearing less than an 1/8th of a inch from the pressure plate forks and adjust the freeplay in the pedal. If this doesn't help I might order an OEM slave/master cylinder or just live with the short pedal throw.
Thanks
Jeremy
Thanks
Jeremy
