Addressing the Funk under your headliner... (Glue Removal/Rust Repair)

Joined
Jun 24, 2018
Messages
103
Location
East Bay Area, CA
What's up, 'Mud.

Got to work on the '60 since this whole COVID thing is keeping me from going into work... and started tearing out the headliner to get to mounting a C/B radio to the roof and address the x12 holes that some P/O had drilled into my roof for a 'safari' roof rack.

Here's what was left after the foam came down:

IMG_1590.JPG

And here's a close up of one set of the holes:
IMG_1592.JPG


Fortunately, my roof is relatively rust free. AND, I plan to Monstaline the truck's exterior when I'm done with this bit so I can afford to do some in depth (see; Welding) repairs and additions (see; Center Roof Console) to the sheetmetal and on the holes...

BUT, My concern is how to get this funky dried 1985 glue off my roof. It's CRUSTY, and hyper-dried out... and comes off as a dust when I chisel or grind it.

3M's Adhesive Remover (38984) hasn't much budged the stuff, neither did Xylene heavy Goo Gone, and I'm having better luck with the stripping wheel or a 120-grip flapper wheel... but, trying to avoid going full ham sandwich on grinding and then needing to repaint the whole roof too....

Further ideas?
Aircraft Stripper?
Jasco paint stripper?
...if I'm gonna strip it, I might as well do it with chemicals as opposed to doing it with a wheel.
 
Joined
Nov 2, 2017
Messages
362
Location
Vancouver, Canada
I started ripping mine out too. The interior always smells funky and good thing I did decide to rip it out. This is what I found, some nice mold:

20200304_190445_tn.jpg


There are holes in the roof, some with rivnuts and some without. It looks like the old factory roof mounts but the rivnuts and holes don't look very factory quality. Some of the holes are open which was causing rainwater to enter and grow the mold, and start rusting around the outside gutter rails from the inside out. There are also chrome strips on the ridges on the top of the roof which are just drilled through the roof with screws and of course there is rust starting around those.

All of this is fixable and the rust is minor at this point, and I'm also wondering how to remove the old insulation glue. I'll also be spraying some rust paint followed by linseed based rust inhibitor (not Fluid Film as it stinks like sheep inside the car) inside the enclosed rail along the top edge of the roof beside the gutter pinch weld. You can't access that weld directly but I'll first spray Eastwood Frame Repair rust paint to take care of the rust on the inside of the pinch weld (I've already painted the outside) using the supplied hose, then spray in the rust inhibitor using a similar tube sprayer to get it in there. That way, if any rust does decide to come back in the future, it will be stopped in its tracks by the rust inhibitor.

It looks like you also cut the headliner at the windshield. I'm not sure what headliner I'll put back in but I want to avoid involving the windshield in this so I may just secure it to the roof at the windshield somehow and put a trim piece over to hide it. IMO the windshield should have nothing to do with the headliner.
 
Joined
Nov 2, 2017
Messages
362
Location
Vancouver, Canada
Regarding Monstaliner, my opinion is that those really hard coatings that don't flake off can cause more rust problems since when the 100% perfect bonding to the underlying surface is inevitably broken, moisture and salt will enter underneath and be trapped, never drying out and rapidly causing further rust unnoticed until it is too extensive. I prefer regular paint which flakes off if rust is present underneath so it is obvious to see and address. I saw a nice-from-afar land cruiser last year that was monstalined but sadly up close you could see the thing was rusting away underneath.

Just my $0.02, maybe others have a different opinion...
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2005
Messages
4,807
Location
Southern Colorado
 
 
 
Every liner-covered roof I have seen has bubbling and water getting under the liner inside the rain gutter. This will be fatal to the roof. Liner sticks ok to big flat surfaces, but getting it to adhere 100% inside the gutter seems to be the challenge (nor do I think it's even possible). Then, repairs are difficult/impossible. Liner jobs look great for XX years, but sun/age/rain/rust come after them, and down the road, you have a mess.
 
Joined
Jun 24, 2018
Messages
103
Location
East Bay Area, CA
Regarding Monstaliner, my opinion is that those really hard coatings that don't flake off can cause more rust problems since when the 100% perfect bonding to the underlying surface is inevitably broken, moisture and salt will enter underneath and be trapped, never drying out and rapidly causing further rust unnoticed until it is too extensive.
Every liner-covered roof I have seen has bubbling and water getting under the liner inside the rain gutter.
You're both helping me marshal my thoughts... I really appreciate it. I wanted Monstaliner as it's the lower cost to a full paint job that isn't a MAACO job which'll just get knackered over time... but @MarkBC , you point out a good thing: If the paint flakes... just re-do it.
 
Joined
Nov 2, 2017
Messages
362
Location
Vancouver, Canada
I did a Rustoleum white rattle can paint job on my 4runner hood. It came out really good. With a sanding and clearcoat you wouldn't be able to tell it wasn't professional... but a hood is fairly easy to paint with a rattle can. I did about 5 or 6 coats while it was sitting vertically. So for a whole vehicle that's hundreds of dollars of paint cans.
 
Joined
Jun 24, 2018
Messages
103
Location
East Bay Area, CA
I did a Rustoleum white rattle can paint job on my 4runner hood.
I'm not opposed to rattle-can... but, yea... The cost is preventative and then your logic starts to necessitate the need for a higher quality sprayer, compressor, booth, etc. if you're going to do all the prep work.

In short; I think I'm going to go with either another MAACO job (truck had one in 2011, and it's REALLY starting to crack, bubble, and so-on) or just rattle it myself.

Big prep work to do before hand includes scrape and MEK / seal the gutters, re-weld the holes in the roof and properly bondo them, address some minor A-pillar surface rust, and dent/ding repair along the quarter panels... not including stripping the vehicle accessories and so-on to make it easier for the spraying.

Truck was "Champagne" brown from the factory, and took a MAACO reproduction... It'd like to go alpine white or some lighter tan since I spend a lot of time in the south western deserts with it.
 
Joined
Apr 11, 2019
Messages
60
Location
Tampa Florida
What did you end up using to get the old glue/whatever off the roof? Currently doing the same and I"ve just been sanding it down. Works well so far but terribly tedious.
 
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
826
Location
Oakland CA
 
 
My guess... When we come out of this quarantine a lot of body shops will be desperate for work. Save your nickels and find a body shop further east like in Stockton maybe. Should be able to find quality work a5 a reasonable price.

I personally would stay away from that monstaliner stuff. As others have stated... it tends to trap moisture and what not.

Should we load up next Saturday and go find a trail? Let me know.
 
Joined
Jun 24, 2018
Messages
103
Location
East Bay Area, CA
What did you end up using to get the old glue/whatever off the roof? Currently doing the same and I"ve just been sanding it down. Works well so far but terribly tedious.
Gunner90, I'm still 'stuck' at this spot. Just pulled the front 1/3rd of the headliner so far, and ended up keeping the vehicle in this status for now as I'm not committing to the needed fixes on the 'ceiling' as I know I'll also need to address the exterior paint / 'roof.' As a previous poster said, my greatest success have been with abrasives like angle grinders + flap wheels / VSR drills + wire wheel.

I'm considering, depending on the level of bite I get out of these abrasives when I attack it in a month or so, also going the Jasco/Aircraft stripper route too. Since, if I can't get it to my liking with the abrasive without full paint destruction, might as well strip it and save the metal the potential of warping from the heat.

Lastly, I WILL update this when I take the final stab at the roof. Just not there quite yet.

My guess... When we come out of this quarantine a lot of body shops will be desperate for work. Save your nickels and find a body shop further east like in Stockton maybe. Should be able to find quality work a5 a reasonable price.

I personally would stay away from that monstaliner stuff. As others have stated... it tends to trap moisture and what not.

Should we load up next Saturday and go find a trail? Let me know.
joebattle1! Social distancing at its finest, amirite? PM me!

I'd wager you're right. ...hadn't thought of that, but your point is well taken. I'm used to the small-town beach-side 1-bodyshop-in-town prices, so even the east bay, comparably, is fantastic. I'll search for privately contracted repairs for the six holes + the other minor rust I have on the A-pillars when this whole thing blows over.

Got a quote from the local east bay Maaco as well 1-2 weeks ago. They're about 4x as expensive than the Monstaliner for the type of job I'd want done, but the project quality they had sitting in their bays was of high enough repute that I think I'll go with their hand when I'm ready. If I'm going to do all the riggamarole of the roof gutter reseal, and bodyworks professionally done... I might as well paint and clearcoat the damn thing right.
...they can spray Sherwin Williams, which I hear is not the top-quality auto paint... but they do have code #31494
 
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