I already have 4 rock lights wired up under the sliders using the OEM harness. I'm thinking off adding some additional lights to light up the rear hatch/tire swingout (useful) and maybe front bumper area (to look cool) but not sure if that would exceed what the factory wiring/switches/relays can handle.
Adding rock lights to the rock sliders using the leftover wire connectors (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter HomersCanyonero
- Start date
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Factory is 4 194 bulbs or about 16 watts. I would be more worried about the Sub Body ECU that controls the lights not being able to handle the additional amps than the wiring
100% is, but I’m picky and really want 1 set of lights across the bottom that maintains factory functionality and traditional rock light functionality.
If you can figure it out and post some info, I may try it too
LEDs are pretty low draw. I’m using KC cyclones which are .42 amps each.
My thought is add a dpst switch that completes circuit to ground for each set to allow each side to operate independent when doors are open (if they do stock?) but also have the option to turn on anytime.
My thought is add a dpst switch that completes circuit to ground for each set to allow each side to operate independent when doors are open (if they do stock?) but also have the option to turn on anytime.
That’s exactly what I posted, it’s about as simple as it can get with low draw LED. Not sure why this is being over complicated but sometimes these threads get momentum…
Just stay at or equal to factory light amperage/wattage and no need to over think it.
That switch option is good if you want a separate switch, but I have a switch panel that is wired to a fusebox under the hood, and want that panel to control the lights. No interest in adding a separate switch.
On my 460, There is no fuse in between the Body ECU and the step lights. The four 5w 192 bulbs pull 1.6 amps, and I didn't want to overload the BCM.
I ended up buying a DomeRock V4 module which allowed me to run my 8 rock lights on a switch, and they still function as the step lights did.
I ended up buying a DomeRock V4 module which allowed me to run my 8 rock lights on a switch, and they still function as the step lights did.
KC cyclones are also 5 watts
watts are amps x voltage, amps are watt/ voltage, 4x 5 watt is 20 watts, divided by 12 is 1.67 amps
watts are amps x voltage, amps are watt/ voltage, 4x 5 watt is 20 watts, divided by 12 is 1.67 amps
- Thread starter
- #91
But we run at 14.1v? And the higher the volt…the lower the amps for the same watts.
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Finally got mine wired up over the weekend and am having issues with it.
The lights only turn off if I double lock the doors, or seem to time out after about 15 min if I open a door or unlock the doors and don’t relock them. They don’t turn off when I start driving so I had to pull over this morning and unplug them.
Doing some searching it sounds like others have had the same issue:
One thing to explore is I wired them in parallel, possibly lower resistance could have some some impact? I can try to wire in series and see if they even turn on.
I also touched the leads together accidently testing the lights which popped the dome light fuse. Replaced the fuse and everything works again but hopefully I didn’t screw something up.
The lights only turn off if I double lock the doors, or seem to time out after about 15 min if I open a door or unlock the doors and don’t relock them. They don’t turn off when I start driving so I had to pull over this morning and unplug them.
Doing some searching it sounds like others have had the same issue:
Running Board Lights Staying On... - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion
GX - 1st Gen (2004-2009) - Running Board Lights Staying On... - So I pulled the RBs a while back, and decided to repurpose the wiring already there to power some LEDs for courtesy lights (basically giving good light to the step in area of the truck, but completely concealed). It's a pretty nice...
www.clublexus.com
One thing to explore is I wired them in parallel, possibly lower resistance could have some some impact? I can try to wire in series and see if they even turn on.
I also touched the leads together accidently testing the lights which popped the dome light fuse. Replaced the fuse and everything works again but hopefully I didn’t screw something up.
- Thread starter
- #93
Interesting…I’ve had zero issues and I’ve been under water in puddles that are tire high.
Mine work perfectly just as if they were stock courtesy lights but much brighter pointing at the ground.
I did have to make sure that the red wire and the black wires on the rock lights were connected correctly to the factory wires.
I didn’t heat solder the connectors until I confirmed the wires were correct and the lights turned on properly.
So, I hand tied the wires and opened the door to test the lights would go on.
Keep us posted in what you find.
Mine work perfectly just as if they were stock courtesy lights but much brighter pointing at the ground.
I did have to make sure that the red wire and the black wires on the rock lights were connected correctly to the factory wires.
I didn’t heat solder the connectors until I confirmed the wires were correct and the lights turned on properly.
So, I hand tied the wires and opened the door to test the lights would go on.
Keep us posted in what you find.
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I solved the issue with the KC Cyclones not turning off.
I did some testing last weekend by wiring up a jumper to go from the positive of one light to the negative of the next, wiring the two lights in series. Only one of the two lights would turn on which was making me think maybe they had too much resistance. Scratching my head and trying to think of a path forward I started unplugging everything when I realized the light was staying on with only the positive wire attached.
This is when I realized that the Cyclone was grounded through its aluminum housing. Recall that this circuit is switched via the ground, with the light constantly grounded it won’t turn off. I ordered some nylon M8 bolts and washers from McMaster to,replace the stainless hardware I originally used, isolating the light from the body so it’s no longer grounded. Now everything works as intended, even gradually fading on and off the same as the factory lights did.
I did some testing last weekend by wiring up a jumper to go from the positive of one light to the negative of the next, wiring the two lights in series. Only one of the two lights would turn on which was making me think maybe they had too much resistance. Scratching my head and trying to think of a path forward I started unplugging everything when I realized the light was staying on with only the positive wire attached.
This is when I realized that the Cyclone was grounded through its aluminum housing. Recall that this circuit is switched via the ground, with the light constantly grounded it won’t turn off. I ordered some nylon M8 bolts and washers from McMaster to,replace the stainless hardware I originally used, isolating the light from the body so it’s no longer grounded. Now everything works as intended, even gradually fading on and off the same as the factory lights did.
Older post resurrected, I’m about to do this but was wondering if there is a way to turn them on without opening the door?
Did you end up playing with this idea? I thought about this as well, but wondered if sending power to the lights would kick on the door ajar light on the dash.
