ACSD Removal

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Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Threads
5
Messages
37
Location
Langdon, Alberta
I've perused all of the threads I could find regarding the removal and blanking of the Automatic Cold Starting Device but I can't find any explanations of how to actually remove the unit. :frown: There's no way I can see to get to the Allen screws holding it on. There's too much stuff in the way and I'm a little leery of removing the spring.

Mine's leaking like a sieve and I really need to get it off. Has anyone here who's removed it got any tips? I haven't got a sniff of how to remove it.

Thanks,

Kelvin
94 JDM HDJ81
 
Well I finally finished removing my ACSD. Not a bad job at all. The bolts were really tight and it took a lot of ooomph to break them free but once I did it was quite easy. I cut an aluminum blanker out of 1/4 aluminum plate and drilled the holes 4cm apart. Perfect fit. Mine was not busted but was pissing fuel. I'm sure I was losing 500ml an hour.

And now my cruise control works fine where it did not before! I have no idea why but I had heard on another forum that once you fix the fuel leak the cruise starts working again. I tested it today and now it's working as it should.

Kelvin
 
Did you replace the o-ring too? I put in a viton o-ring under my blanking plate. I'd imagine it still leaking without one.
 
I re-used the old o-ring. It's not the o-ring that leaks, it's the ACSD device itself that leaks. Remove the ACSD, put a blanker plate on using the old o-ring, and voila - no more leak.
 
Good to hear. Mine was pissing diesel whenever the engine was running. I got tired of smelling it. But mine seemed to be leaking from the interface between the IP and ACSD.
 
That's where it appeared to be leaking on mine as well. Most people who blank the ACSD just re-use the o-ring with no problems. The ACSD has an indent for the ring as well as the IP. When you remove the ACSD and put a flat plate on I think that it squishes the o-ring much tighter than the original seal. Whether or not that's the reason or it's because it only looks like that's where the leak was - I don't know. I just know that the o-ring looked and felt brand new when I removed it so I didn't feel squeamish about re-using it at all.

I still haven't fully removed the ACSD. It's still attached to the truck until I can find a connector to hook the two coolant lines together. It's currently just zip tied to the frame. Once I do remove it completely I will have a closer look at it and see if I can tell.

My ACSD was fully intact as well. Was yours?

Kelvin

P.S. I love your avatar. I'm originally from Portage now living in Calgary. Go Jets!
 
Mine was fully intact, but my motor stopped ticking once I removed it and the idle moved down to an appropriate level.
 
Mine was intact as well. I tried selling it here on MUD but no offers ;)

Actually, a couple of weeks after I removed my ACSD, I woke in the middle of the night thinking about how some ACSDs have the internal pin shear off into the IP - and I couldn't remember seeing the pin. I ended up in the garage at 3am looking for the excised ACSD. Luckily it had the pin still intact. I was able to sleep after that.
 
Oh, and I replaced the o-ring with a viton one because ULSD kills rubber.
 
Well it's easy enough to replace now. Where did you source the new O ring from? What size is it? I may just go get one and do it anyway.

Kel
 
The o-ring is Bosch P/N 2460223001. Cost me $2.90. I got it through a local diesel shop named Western Turbo.
 
finderscuba said:
The o-ring is Bosch P/N 2460223001. Cost me $2.90. I got it through a local diesel shop named Western Turbo.

What about buying the plate?

Also what is done with the coolant in and out lines?
 
The plate was Bosch P/N 1461074312. Cost me $17.90 from the same place mentioned above.

I had initially just joined the two ACSD lines with a male-male fitting (3/8" I believe). I'm now using the lower ACSD line to feed my circulating heater. The top ACSD line is plugged.
 
I just went outside to try to remember what I did for the coolant hoses.

I just rotated both hoses so the ends are pointed at each other and used a double hose barb of the appropriate size. I used hose clamps rather than the factory squeeze-style clamps.

Brass Hose Barb Mender/Splicer
 

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