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- #41
Lol, the NY comment. Touche. I don't like it either.
AC Issue
- Thread starter 2002TLCyes
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Well to keep everyone updated, the dealership found a leak in the rear lines just below the passenger side door. They are quoting me about $3k to replace ALL lines (worst case scenario) so needless to say, that just seems crazy to me. That and the light is back to blinking as opposed to solid. They said it was throwing "Code 14" whatever that means, thoughts on that would be appreciated.
I would consider capping it and moving on but we actually use the rear A/C fairly often, especially for our pup in the way back.
Is this crazy? Am I better off going to see a specialist? I just want to feel better about putting $3k into the rig at this point. If this is something a novice can tackle with a lift and basic tools, that would be good to know (but somehow I doubt it).
Thanks in advance and once again, sorry for hijacking.
I would consider capping it and moving on but we actually use the rear A/C fairly often, especially for our pup in the way back.
Is this crazy? Am I better off going to see a specialist? I just want to feel better about putting $3k into the rig at this point. If this is something a novice can tackle with a lift and basic tools, that would be good to know (but somehow I doubt it).
Thanks in advance and once again, sorry for hijacking.
First thing that needs to be determined is the condition of ALL of your lines. A good, thorough visual inspection should give you an idea of what you are dealing with.
IF the bulk of the lines (exposed to the elements) are deeply pitted and of questionable integrity...then yes, 'full' replacement makes sense. But I doubt that is what is you'll find.
Conversely, IF only a small section of the lines are needed, then replace those lines only.
For items like A/C components/work.....I would not recommend you ever take your vehicle to the 'dealer', unless no other competent source for repair exists. The 'dealership' will generally be MUCH more expensive.
Now...as far as replacing A/C hard lines goes. Yes, it is something that can be done by a novice, provided you have patience and can follow instructions to a 'T'.
But I'd advise that you seek out a professional when it is time to recharge the system (pump it down, check for leaks, add a little oil, weigh in refrigerant). And expect that there will be NO warranty or guarantee on their work, since they did not do the whole thing.
That is pretty crazy. I think bare minimum you need a second opinion at another shop. I love my pup too, but da m n........ $3k?
I capped my lines on my old rig, and glad i did, but I am really happy to have a full working a/c on my new to me rig.
I capped my lines on my old rig, and glad i did, but I am really happy to have a full working a/c on my new to me rig.
That is the number one guaranteed place for the rear a/c lines to leak. 100% going to happen on these trucks. You can bet the farm on that.
Replace only those lines, nothing more. Take it to a different shop, tell them whats wrong and that you want those lines replaced.
Since your compressor came one when you threw a can of refridgerent into it (the can wouldnt be empty if it didn't come on) your compressor is fine.
Fix the leak and you'll be good to go.
Then have them recharge the system.
If you leave the rear HVAC on and set the rear temp to whatever you want then it'll add heat or cool air and your cabin will warm/cool faster.
I leave my system on "auto" all the time, front set to 72, rear to 75. Call it good.
Watch this video. Again, I spliced mine where the leak was, then vacuumed the system and recharged it myself. Total cost was under $50.
Mine had a pin hole leak, the line was not broken like in this video.
Thanks guys, I'm getting a 2nd opinion from a trusted shop in my old hometown early next week. Are splices generally pretty reliable when done right or is it more of a band aid? I'm not afraid of spending money when necessary if it's the best decision.
To be fair, they were clear that they were quoting me the worst case scenario and said there was a good chance it wouldn't come to that
To be fair, they were clear that they were quoting me the worst case scenario and said there was a good chance it wouldn't come to that
A good splice is fine and not a band aid. Ideally you just change the section that is bad. The individual pieces are not that expensive. Good luck.
I've inspected my own rear AC lines, and they are broken into several smaller pieces. I would imagine there are a few difficult to replace parts of it, however 3K is unbelievable for this job even if you need to replace all rear lines. Get a second opinion, and go from there.
If you want to keep the rear A/C and DIY, you can replace the lines by ordering custom rubber AC hoses with compression ends. Measure the length you need with a piece of rope and order them here (just an example): Rear AC Line Repair Kits
You will be happy to know that a rubber hose never rusts (I guess everything is possible in NY) and you can easily string it through the frame without having to lift the truck or drop the tank (some other vehicles).
After this you will still need some tools to re-charge, but you may find someone that can do that for not too much money. (I'd be happy to help you out, but this illegal to do in Kanuckistan without a proper license
, so I don't...?)
If you decide to go this route, please post the lengths, so we can all benefit from this.
You will be happy to know that a rubber hose never rusts (I guess everything is possible in NY) and you can easily string it through the frame without having to lift the truck or drop the tank (some other vehicles).
After this you will still need some tools to re-charge, but you may find someone that can do that for not too much money. (I'd be happy to help you out, but this illegal to do in Kanuckistan without a proper license
, so I don't...?)If you decide to go this route, please post the lengths, so we can all benefit from this.
UPDATE: My mechanic (whom I trust implicitly) has spliced the offending rear A/C line and now the clutch is not kicking in. Says he's refilled the system and is thinking it might be electrical. Any thoughts?
Relay has been replaced, truck as 171k so it can't be a bad compressor, can it? He also said he noticed the compressor wheel only spins one way, is that normal?
Any advice appreciated, I really thought the splice kit would solve the issue.
Relay has been replaced, truck as 171k so it can't be a bad compressor, can it? He also said he noticed the compressor wheel only spins one way, is that normal?
Any advice appreciated, I really thought the splice kit would solve the issue.
Did he weigh the correct amount of freon in? There has to be a certain amount of pressure to operate the compressor clutch.
Saber05 wrote:
UPDATE: My mechanic (whom I trust implicitly) has spliced the offending rear A/C line and now the clutch is not kicking in. Says he's refilled the system and is thinking it might be electrical. Any thoughts?
^^^^^^^
Somebody (I don't care who) needs to:
1. Apply 12 volts DIRECTLY to the compressor clutch. See IF it is operational. You should not trust your mechanic 'implicitly' or otherwise if he hasn't performed this very remedial and important troubleshooting step.
2. IF the clutch will not operate with 12 v. directly applied, check the air gap. IF the air gap is correct, then the issue is with the electro-magnetic clutch.
3. IF the clutch IS operational....then test the electrical circuit back (starting from the clutch) to the next component in line (probably the trinary switch).
Let us know what you find.
Note: Your mechanic could not have properly filled the system if the compressor was not running.
UPDATE: My mechanic (whom I trust implicitly) has spliced the offending rear A/C line and now the clutch is not kicking in. Says he's refilled the system and is thinking it might be electrical. Any thoughts?
^^^^^^^
Somebody (I don't care who) needs to:
1. Apply 12 volts DIRECTLY to the compressor clutch. See IF it is operational. You should not trust your mechanic 'implicitly' or otherwise if he hasn't performed this very remedial and important troubleshooting step.
2. IF the clutch will not operate with 12 v. directly applied, check the air gap. IF the air gap is correct, then the issue is with the electro-magnetic clutch.
3. IF the clutch IS operational....then test the electrical circuit back (starting from the clutch) to the next component in line (probably the trinary switch).
Let us know what you find.
Note: Your mechanic could not have properly filled the system if the compressor was not running.
UPDATE:
Thanks @flintknapper
My mechanic applied 12V directly to the compressor and the clutch did not kick in so that is one thing done correctly. He recommended replacement of the compressor which I authorized and I imagine that should solve the problem. I'd be very surprised if he didn't do everything he could to salvage the existing compressor, he's not the kind of guy that throws parts at the problem.
Thanks @flintknapper
My mechanic applied 12V directly to the compressor and the clutch did not kick in so that is one thing done correctly. He recommended replacement of the compressor which I authorized and I imagine that should solve the problem. I'd be very surprised if he didn't do everything he could to salvage the existing compressor, he's not the kind of guy that throws parts at the problem.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #54
Just to update you guys, I went to my mechanic with the AC issue. He said that I had 0 pressure. So he put in some of the color indicator stuff in there, and then filled it up with freon. AC started right up! After running it for a few minutes, we lifted the truck back up and he looked for leaks with the eye glasses and flashlight, but could not see anything. I didn't see anything obvious later on in the day as well. (I was parked on snow so I figure anything would stand out pretty clearly).
So he said that I very likely do have a leak, but it's so small that it's too much of a pain to try to find. Suggested that I just wait and see how long it takes for the pressure to drop again. If it happens quickly, then he'll try to look for it a little better. If it takes months, he said that he'll just give me a discount every time I come in to refill the freon.
Overall, I paid 160$ for a full synthetic oil change, heater T replacement (I bought the new T's myself and he just installed), and the AC work. Seem fair?
He said he could cap the lines going to the rear for me, but I'd have to buy the caps myself, and he said that it looks like I might only need to cap one of the lines, not both. Is this correct? If I lose pressure soon, I'm going to want to cap the lines, so where's a good spot. Can I cap it at an existing threaded location somewhere, or do I have to cut the line off in a random spot and use the more complex compression fittings and caps?
So he said that I very likely do have a leak, but it's so small that it's too much of a pain to try to find. Suggested that I just wait and see how long it takes for the pressure to drop again. If it happens quickly, then he'll try to look for it a little better. If it takes months, he said that he'll just give me a discount every time I come in to refill the freon.
Overall, I paid 160$ for a full synthetic oil change, heater T replacement (I bought the new T's myself and he just installed), and the AC work. Seem fair?
He said he could cap the lines going to the rear for me, but I'd have to buy the caps myself, and he said that it looks like I might only need to cap one of the lines, not both. Is this correct? If I lose pressure soon, I'm going to want to cap the lines, so where's a good spot. Can I cap it at an existing threaded location somewhere, or do I have to cut the line off in a random spot and use the more complex compression fittings and caps?
Hi all,
Reviving this tread to ask a related AC question. My compressor is not kicking in. Here is what I have done to troubleshoot: I checked the resistance and the mag-clutch operation and it is OK. Checked internal temp sensor and it is OK. Checked the 15amp AC fuse down by the driver side and it is OK. External temp sensor is working OK.
When I press the AC switch, it goes from greyed out colour to green with a yellow line at the top. I think this means the AC is on but compressor not working, correct? When the systems goes into cooling mode (compressor on) then the yellow line would turn green, correct?
Here is what I am not sure about:
- Any relays to check?
- Any more fuses?
- Sight glass seems to be filled with fluid, when I tap on it I see 3 or 4 small bubbles moving around and then disappearing (looks like they go down...?)
I did not check anything on the evaporator side as it seems I have to remove the whole dashboard to get there.
At this point I am inclined to think the pressure switch or electric lines are bad.... Anyone knows how to check if pressure sensor is working?...or may be how to bypass the sensor only to check that compressor will start? Then I can take to a shop at least I know it will either be the pressure switch or really low refrigerant pressure (indicating a leak...).
Any suggestions on how to continue the troubleshooting?
Thanks a lot!
Reviving this tread to ask a related AC question. My compressor is not kicking in. Here is what I have done to troubleshoot: I checked the resistance and the mag-clutch operation and it is OK. Checked internal temp sensor and it is OK. Checked the 15amp AC fuse down by the driver side and it is OK. External temp sensor is working OK.
When I press the AC switch, it goes from greyed out colour to green with a yellow line at the top. I think this means the AC is on but compressor not working, correct? When the systems goes into cooling mode (compressor on) then the yellow line would turn green, correct?
Here is what I am not sure about:
- Any relays to check?
- Any more fuses?
- Sight glass seems to be filled with fluid, when I tap on it I see 3 or 4 small bubbles moving around and then disappearing (looks like they go down...?)
I did not check anything on the evaporator side as it seems I have to remove the whole dashboard to get there.
At this point I am inclined to think the pressure switch or electric lines are bad.... Anyone knows how to check if pressure sensor is working?...or may be how to bypass the sensor only to check that compressor will start? Then I can take to a shop at least I know it will either be the pressure switch or really low refrigerant pressure (indicating a leak...).
Any suggestions on how to continue the troubleshooting?
Thanks a lot!
For testing of the switch, see page 84 of this document: http://www.dustbird.com/ih8mud/FSM/Air Conditioning.pdf
My guess based on age of vehicle and your location, you have a leak in the rear A/C lines. Are you able to check the pressures in the system?
This quote is from earlier in this thread, I had a similar issue but my yellow line was flashing. It might be worth checking to see which relay you have (if it ends is 02022, it's a "well" documented problem on some Lexus forums as a bad relay) and worth replacing. Fair warning, after this fix I did find out I had a leak going to the rear AC just under the pass. foot well and even a bad compressor. Maybe the flashing light was a warning sign that things were going downhill, but a $60 relay is a pretty inexpensive thing to check yourself.
"I'm having this same issue now! (Boston here, but VERY minimal rust underneath due to an OCD owner
)Previously, the AC Light would flash then clutch would disengage. Dealer recharged, found no leaks, and wanted $400 to investigate a relay underneath the fuse block in the engine bay. I hadn't had time to research everything myself so I declined that, bought a new relay (P/N 90987-02028) per 'Mud and other Lexus/Toyota site threads, and bingo, problem was solved."
Thanks white_lx and Spaber05!
Your suggestions/comments guided me to the answer: I have no refrigerant left.
Because I had no way to check pressures, I just used a small screwdriver to push the low pressure valve....empty!!!
At least now I know I first need to find the leak and fix it, then see what comes next.
Thanks again!
Your suggestions/comments guided me to the answer: I have no refrigerant left.
Because I had no way to check pressures, I just used a small screwdriver to push the low pressure valve....empty!!!
At least now I know I first need to find the leak and fix it, then see what comes next.
Thanks again!
IF you saw fluid or bubbles in the sight glass (as you cited in post #55) then you have liquid refrigerant in the system.
A set of gauges would allow to check and see what your 'static' pressure (if any) was.
fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
If you want to keep the rear A/C and DIY, you can replace the lines by ordering custom rubber AC hoses with compression ends. Measure the length you need with a piece of rope and order them here (just an example): Rear AC Line Repair Kits
You will be happy to know that a rubber hose never rusts (I guess everything is possible in NY) and you can easily string it through the frame without having to lift the truck or drop the tank (some other vehicles).
After this you will still need some tools to re-charge, but you may find someone that can do that for not too much money. (I'd be happy to help you out, but this illegal to do in Kanuckistan without a proper license
If you decide to go this route, please post the lengths, so we can all benefit from this.
I'm going to do this. Anyone have a decent write-up somewhere?
