AC idler pully help. (1 Viewer)

[Bryanseye]

Changing belts yesterday as the last part of baselining the new to me LX450, I buggered the AC idler nut real good. The 12 pt socket slipped so I tried to work a 6pt on to get a better bite. Nope, rounded off completely. Moved on to the alternator while some PB blaster did its thing. Came back later with some vice grips knowing the nut was toast anyway but they just chew it up.

I have now tried time with PB and heat with MAP gas as much as I am comfortable given the space. Any advice? I dont see room to get a drill in there and am having visions of taking a sawzall to the back side of the pully between it and the bracket. Thanks!

 

[mingles]

I think a sawzall would work fine as long as the bracket stays undamaged.

It looks like the new pulley comes with the bolt and nut so you just need to get the old one out of the way.

Amazon.com: FEBEST 0187-FZJ80 Idler Pulley: Automotive

When I put my new one on the long adjusting bolt loosened up while driving and vibrated out and disappeared on the road somewhere. I put a new longer bolt in and put a nylock nut on the very end of the bolt to keep that from happening again.

Good luck.

 

[baselfish]

me thinks it is hook / crook time - in that "by any means necessary" time....

heat - pb blaster - since too the nut is completely chewed / gouged - maybe use an old wood chisel and hammer to back / tap it off....
find the biggest groove (or hell make one with the chisel) and tap away - till it loosens -

at this point you will need a new nut anyways - so if you "destroy" it with the chisel so what....
two things will happen - the nut backs off or you chisel so much you split the nut that it breaks too...


bf

 

[Rwhat]

Try the sawzall if it's that messed up. Or take some time with a file and clean it up and see if you can get a socket back on it. Lesson learned. Don't use 12 point sockets on anything, unless it has a 12pt head.

Do you happen to have a small welder?

 

[ajax1]

I think that might be reversed threads could be wrong don't remember on that fsm would say

 

[Bryanseye]

Thanks for the suggestions all. Very little room in front of the nut for a hammer due to a transmission line and rad cross member. I dropped the steering stabilizer to get better access beneath. May try spinning it with a chisel but am not optimistic. No welder, but I see where you are going and like it.

 

[Bryanseye]

Piece of cake. Tried one of those Irwin bolt-outs first but couldn't get a good bite. It is like the metal was just too soft. The saw made quick work and not a scratch on the bracket.