ABV/VSV smog help

[Marc311]

Thanks for the expertise. I just keep having to walk away from it for a little bit to simmer down. I bought this thing as a project - I just didn't think getting it smogged would be such an issue. When I bought it, I think I pretty accurately estimated major expenses. But what I totally underestimated was how many little things - like VSVs - I would need and how much they cost. Oh well, I'll keep pluggin and chuggin. But at the same time I am real happy with the truck.

 

[dogboy2]

Thanks for the expertise. I just keep having to walk away from it for a little bit to simmer down. I bought this thing as a project - I just didn't think getting it smogged would be such an issue. When I bought it, I think I pretty accurately estimated major expenses. But what I totally underestimated was how many little things - like VSVs - I would need and how much they cost. Oh well, I'll keep pluggin and chuggin. But at the same time I am real happy with the truck.

You're in good company. The trick is to not total up all of the receipts that pile up over the years and just kick back and enjoy the ride.

-db-

 

[lovetoski]

and just kick back and enjoy the ride.

-db-

Ya. I've had some issues...but today spent 10+ hours using my cruiser. Drove to the mountians with my son to hike, drive some rough fire service roads, do some target shooting with the 22 and on back home. Once you get it working, it's pretty amazing...

 

[dogboy2]

Those who are much wiser than I could better explain a little trick of using an IR temperature gun for testing the CAT before you go and replace it carte blanche. IIRC, you take a reading before the CAT and after the CAT - the exit temp should be higher than the entry temp, but don't quote me on that - will verify tomorrow and post back.

Posting back re: the temp gun & CAT trick above. Confirmed the technique and yes, you take a temp reading about 2" before the CAT and then another about 2" after the CAT. The exit temp should be significantly higher than the entry temp, to the tune of about 130º - 150º. If it is roughly equal, then it is a reasonable bet that your CAT is toast and not heating up as designed.

Related for what it's worth: used the MAF high flow CAT as a replacement to my dead OEM unit and have been pleased with it thus far.

HTH,
-dogboy- '87 FJ60

 

[hank14]

Did your air pump ever die? Do you have a leaking power steering pump? If you answered yes to either of those questions then you may have a piece of the carbon vane from the pump stuck inside the ABV. If yes disassemble clean and reassemble. The good news is there are no small or complicated parts just four screws.

Dynosoar

I removed the top of the ABV with 4 screws. There is a metal- maybe aluminum "ring" that has a small amoutn of paper gasket material around both sides of it. It seals the upper and lower chambers of the valve.

Anyways, the gasket in mine tore, so I removed it and replaced it with a small bead of silicone gasket material. Anyone know how important that seal is?

One thing I've decided- The inventor of all this smog crap was more creative than whoever figured out the internal combustion engine.

 

[rmcquet]

I removed the top of the ABV with 4 screws. There is a metal- maybe aluminum "ring" that has a small amoutn of paper gasket material around both sides of it. It seals the upper and lower chambers of the valve.

Anyways, the gasket in mine tore, so I removed it and replaced it with a small bead of silicone gasket material. Anyone know how important that seal is?

One thing I've decided- The inventor of all this smog crap was more creative than whoever figured out the internal combustion engine.

I am going through a similar process (also frustrating, but hanging in there).
Took off the four screws on top of the ABV, but there was something underneath preventing me from taking that cover off and cleaning it. Am I taking off the correct four screws? I don't see anything else I should be taking apart. Don't understand what is still holding it together.

Thanks.

 

[hank14]

I should have taken pictures but didn't. I suspect the thin gasket is holding it in place, but I wouldn't force it if I were you. Maybe you could gently pry it.

If you take the entire ABV valve off, there are 3 different plates held on by 4 screws each. I removed all 3 of them yesturday and was suprised it wasn't that dirty, but I do need to replace the hose going to the check valve on the air rail and the one to the smog pump.

The cover on the bottom of the ABV has an o-ring sealing it. The one facing the front- towards the DS headlight- didn't have any gasket.

I cleaned it all up with carb cleaner and put it back together. I won't know if it's working better until I replace on VSV, the air rail check valve, and the 2 hoses.

I also removed the EGR valve and tested and cleaned it. It seems to test and function fine, but the truck still bucks and stalls when it's all hooked up.

 

[Butt Ugly Chuck]

I also removed the EGR valve and tested and cleaned it. It seems to test and function fine, but the truck still bucks and stalls when it's all hooked up.

I've got the same problem. MY EGR tests OK according to FSM procedure, but my rig bucks like a saddle bronk unless it's bypassed. I tried replacing the Modulator but that didn't help. Next I'm looking for a good used EGR to see if that solves it.

Good luck with yours!
Butt

 

[hank14]

Have you removed your EGR and tested it on the bench? Mine held vacuum great.
Also, do you get vacuum or pressure on the 5.5 mm vacuum hose that connects from the lower part of the EGR to the bottom of the EGR modulator? Mine has positive pressure.

Thanks and good luck to you, too.

 

[Butt Ugly Chuck]

Have you removed your EGR and tested it on the bench? Mine held vacuum great.
Also, do you get vacuum or pressure on the 5.5 mm vacuum hose that connects from the lower part of the EGR to the bottom of the EGR modulator? Mine has positive pressure.

My EGR holds vacuum.

I get very slight positive pressure (less than 1 psi) on the 5.5 mm hose at idle. All the schematics in the FSM pages 3-13 and 3-14, show flow from the EGR pressure chamber to the bottom port of the modulator through that hose so that sorta makes sense. If I rev the motor however, I get vacuum (2-4 inches Hg). That’s not making so much sense to me. I’ve probably way over hijacked this thread though (sorry Marc311), think I’ll start another soon on this topic.


Later,
Butt