? about jack and jack stands

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Jack stands are rated in pairs and it's not accumulative. So, a set of 3 ton stands can handle 6k lbs. A 100 series is around 5k, so you're just over the rating. I use 6 ton stands.

you mean a bone stock 100 series, mine's like 6400-6500lbs, before people.
 
Or if you need a good excuse to get bumpers you can say you need the bumpers to safely lift your rig with a Hi-lift on the recovery points!

Not to nit-pick, and I know what you mean, but just so no one gets the idea that using a Hi-lift for changing tires or service is better than a bottle or floor jack - safely lifting and Hi-lift is an oxymoron.
 
When and if I have to swap something or fix something, I put the OEM bottle jack under the truck, hi-lift in the bumper, and 2 3 ton jack stands underneath as well as slide the tire under the LCA upfront.
 
Well, I finally got the jack and the tools. The jack wont lift the front wheel of the ground. It will extend all the way but its not enough to lift the tire off the ground. In the manual it showed some kind of adapter when using the front jack point on the rail. Can anyone explain what it is the manual is talking about? Maybe there is another place to jack the front of the truck up?

Thanks
 
Well, I finally got the jack and the tools. The jack wont lift the front wheel of the ground.

Yes you can lift the front via the circular depression in the OEM 'skid plate' which lies in the middle, left to right as you are facing the front axles, of the front wheels.

My OEM bottle jack will lift from this point even with the lift, it goes up maybe 18" or more.
 
ok so mine is only about 15" I guess size does matter huh. LOL. I got the jack for 11.49 plus 15.00 shipping. Maybe I should throw in some chunks of wood for a wider base and to add some height.
 
ok so mine is only about 15" I guess size does matter huh. LOL. I got the jack for 11.49 plus 15.00 shipping. Maybe I should throw in some chunks of wood for a wider base and to add some height.

isn't there some screw-out extension of sorts on your bottle jack that can help 2 or 3 more inches?

but frankly, I find the turn-to-lift jacks a pain. Hydraulics are much easier.

woodwise: very wide and hard if you want to be safe, of course
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe you can lift the LC by putting a bottle jack under the left or right front lower control arm. Of course this only works for changing a front tire.
 
don't skimp on safety...go buy a good floor jack and make sure it meets your needs....using the bottle jack is asking for trouble especially if you have mods... with a lift and and big tires the bottle jack is obsolete...
 
I use 6 and 12 ton Harbor Freight jack stands.
That is such massive overkill that I don't worry about the country of origin.

I agree with Eric, if I had to replace my OEM jack it would be with a hydraulic style. The screw type are a PITA IMHO, but the OEM jack fits nice and rattle free so I'll hold on to it.

BTW a small bottle jack comes in very handy on the trail from time to time.
 
I thought of trying to lift on the a arm but it looks like it might slide off? I read through the manual again and it says to put the "adapter from the tool kit" on top of the jack to lift the front of the vehicle. Maybe Cdan will be able to find a part number? I could get a small hydraulic (6ton) for $20 but I dont want it to leak out in the back of the LC. Anyone had problems like that carrying a hydraulic bottle jack?

BTW, good advice everyone. I do not plan on using the bottle jack except for ememrgencies to change a flat. I have a heavy sears 3 ton floor jack to lift it while at home.

Thanks for all the helpful info!
 
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