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Removing the old FIPG was the worst part. A flathead screwdriver on edge pulled back toward me was the best tool. I also used a razor blade scraper to get the big stuff off the ridge. It comes off the trans face much easier than off the pan.
For cleaning the pan, I used shop towels and Simple green to get the residual fluid out. Then I used MAF cleaner (won't leave residue) to wash it down. Make sure to spray some inside the dip tube and let it run into the pan. Finally use an air gun to blow out the tube and the remainder of the pan. The little magnets just sit back down into their valleys. Remember to turn the magnets up in the northern hemisphere and down below the equator.
The FIPG comes in a tube with a winder tool. Put the tool on the end and turn and it gives good flow control. Don't try to lace the new FIPG around the bolt holes. Just give a good solid bead, flatten it with your finger, re-apply if there are any gaps, and then punch through the bolt holes with a scrap bolt or screwdriver. The FIPG is going to squirm on re-install anyway.
Once started you have about a 10-15 minute window. So this would not be a good time to take a phone call or have a crying baby. Getting it back up onto the trans requires a little bit of planning: start with the rear portion first - you come up at an angle with the front sloped down. Once clear of the cross-member raise the front level and make contact with the pan. Have the bolts ready so you can start them immediately to hold the position. I started one on each side about mid-pan and it held it fine. Get the remainder started with the nut driver and finish off with the torque-wrench (a step I skipped).
Cleaned pan ready for FIPG:
FIPG in place:
Plenty of FIPG left:
For cleaning the pan, I used shop towels and Simple green to get the residual fluid out. Then I used MAF cleaner (won't leave residue) to wash it down. Make sure to spray some inside the dip tube and let it run into the pan. Finally use an air gun to blow out the tube and the remainder of the pan. The little magnets just sit back down into their valleys. Remember to turn the magnets up in the northern hemisphere and down below the equator.
The FIPG comes in a tube with a winder tool. Put the tool on the end and turn and it gives good flow control. Don't try to lace the new FIPG around the bolt holes. Just give a good solid bead, flatten it with your finger, re-apply if there are any gaps, and then punch through the bolt holes with a scrap bolt or screwdriver. The FIPG is going to squirm on re-install anyway.
Once started you have about a 10-15 minute window. So this would not be a good time to take a phone call or have a crying baby. Getting it back up onto the trans requires a little bit of planning: start with the rear portion first - you come up at an angle with the front sloped down. Once clear of the cross-member raise the front level and make contact with the pan. Have the bolts ready so you can start them immediately to hold the position. I started one on each side about mid-pan and it held it fine. Get the remainder started with the nut driver and finish off with the torque-wrench (a step I skipped).
Cleaned pan ready for FIPG:
FIPG in place:
Plenty of FIPG left:
Last edited:
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There is more dynamic head going through the cooler so I'd roughly say about a qt every 15 sec out the return. Not shown, but I had a 2nd vice grip on the return above the coupling to the clear section to restrict flow. You don't need to pinch it much.
tight. Honestly, I have no idea the correct torque. You just need to get it tight enough to deform the crush washer a little. About the same was what you'd do for your oilpan drain.
