I'm rebuilding my 65 and I have a lot to learn to bring it to this standard. Sensational work my friend!
A South African BJ40 rebuild into a FJ40
- Thread starter tlc_4play
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- #102
A 65 ~ wow thats an oldie - Good luck and dont forget to post a thread of the rebuild.
Chamba
Too short. Too long. Just right: the 43
So how is the FJ40 LX coming along?!
If it turns out half as nice as your 1979 did, then it will be one of the nicest LXs around.
Cheers,
Josh
If it turns out half as nice as your 1979 did, then it will be one of the nicest LXs around.Cheers,
Josh
- Thread starter
- #104
I have a few logistic and papework issues to sort out before I can start tearing the LX down, but it wont be long now
the LX rebuild thread is here https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/295479-rebuild-thread-~-1983-fj40-lx-ex-aus.html
the LX rebuild thread is here https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/295479-rebuild-thread-~-1983-fj40-lx-ex-aus.html
- Thread starter
- #105
4" Lift Causes Oil Seal issues
Just to keep you all fully updated.
When I rebuilt Kermit I installed 4" Lift Heystee Parabolic springs. They are great for flexing, comfort and articulation.
However the 4" lift has caused problems of its own, the rear propshaft is so short that the propshaft angle is now very acute and this is causing excess pressure on the bottom part of the rear transfer case oil seal and as a result this is now leaking quite badly.
As an interim fix, I have placed 4 degree caster shims under the spring mounts on the rear axle to alleviate the problem slightly.
I have spoken to a propshaft specialist and he reckons that the rear propshaft is too short to fit 2 x cardan joints - but I might still fit at least one on the transfer case side.
As soon as I can get the time (I'm presently rushed off my feet - getting the 105 ready for a long overland expedition through Botswana and Namibia as well as stripping the new 1983 FJ40 LX) I will replace the seal but only after inserting an SKF "SPEEDISEAL"
to the output shaft to improve the shaft to seal clearance.
Anybody else has similar oil seal problems as a result of 4" lift ???
Just to keep you all fully updated.
When I rebuilt Kermit I installed 4" Lift Heystee Parabolic springs. They are great for flexing, comfort and articulation.
However the 4" lift has caused problems of its own, the rear propshaft is so short that the propshaft angle is now very acute and this is causing excess pressure on the bottom part of the rear transfer case oil seal and as a result this is now leaking quite badly.
As an interim fix, I have placed 4 degree caster shims under the spring mounts on the rear axle to alleviate the problem slightly.
I have spoken to a propshaft specialist and he reckons that the rear propshaft is too short to fit 2 x cardan joints - but I might still fit at least one on the transfer case side.
As soon as I can get the time (I'm presently rushed off my feet - getting the 105 ready for a long overland expedition through Botswana and Namibia as well as stripping the new 1983 FJ40 LX) I will replace the seal but only after inserting an SKF "SPEEDISEAL"
to the output shaft to improve the shaft to seal clearance.Anybody else has similar oil seal problems as a result of 4" lift ???
- Thread starter
- #106
I decided it was time to change the rear transfer case oil seal as the missus was complaining about the oil on the driveway
when I removed the emergency brake drum you could see clearly that the bottom of the oil seal was flattened - so old seal came out.
Oh yes, , , while I had it up on the hoist I noticed that the rear main crank seal was also leaking, so I took the opportunity to pull the cog box, drop the clutch and flywheel, change the seal and reassemble
Installed the speedi sleeve onto the old worn seal surface.
You apply using the application tool supplied, you then peel off the application lip
Installed
I also decided it was time I fitted the Heystee's Parabolic Load springs to the standard Parabolic spring pack
The emergency brake was re-installed with new double lip seal and speedi sleeve
when I removed the emergency brake drum you could see clearly that the bottom of the oil seal was flattened - so old seal came out.
Oh yes, , , while I had it up on the hoist I noticed that the rear main crank seal was also leaking, so I took the opportunity to pull the cog box, drop the clutch and flywheel, change the seal and reassemble
Installed the speedi sleeve onto the old worn seal surface.
You apply using the application tool supplied, you then peel off the application lip
Installed
I also decided it was time I fitted the Heystee's Parabolic Load springs to the standard Parabolic spring pack
The emergency brake was re-installed with new double lip seal and speedi sleeve
- Thread starter
- #107
After putting Kermit back together and going for a test drive, I noticed that the oil pressure guage had given up the ghost
I did the whole process of elimination as per the Yota manual and everything checked out - but there was no movement of the needle
It turns out that the bi-metal moving iron of the guage had been overheated and had warped - therefor no movement. :whoops:
Fortunately a friend had a spare guage cluster from his rusty old FJ45 that was working but rusted - so I did a butcher job and from the two guages I ended up with a working guage.
The replacemant guage on right, compared to Kermits original guage (the rusty one is the replacement)
After removing the two faces and painting the needle
In working order.
I did the whole process of elimination as per the Yota manual and everything checked out - but there was no movement of the needle
It turns out that the bi-metal moving iron of the guage had been overheated and had warped - therefor no movement. :whoops:
Fortunately a friend had a spare guage cluster from his rusty old FJ45 that was working but rusted - so I did a butcher job and from the two guages I ended up with a working guage.
The replacemant guage on right, compared to Kermits original guage (the rusty one is the replacement)
After removing the two faces and painting the needle
In working order.
Very nice build on Kermit. Very nice read and great pics. I have some projects that I am going to get working on again. Thanks for the inspiration. I hope mine turns out half as nice as yours.
Good luck on the LX. I will scope that thread out next.
Cheers. =o)
Good luck on the LX. I will scope that thread out next.
Cheers. =o)
A couple of quick questions... What is the prep work on the rusty fastners before you have them replated? Do you have to acid soak and polish them. or does the plating company handle all of that? Yours turned out really smooth and shiney. Do you have a source for the Boston rain gutters that you used? It looks like a real project to install.
Thanks a bunch and keep up the great work and posts.
Thanks a bunch and keep up the great work and posts.
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- #110
Thanks for the comments
I took all of the nuts and bolts to an electroplater, I had to remove all paint from nuts n bolts that were painted but that's all.
The electroplater has to acid wash everything first as part of the process so that cleans everything up perfectly
The rain gutters are from SouthBoston - Alex Durso (on this forum - send him a pm)
The LX project is progressing slowly - body should be back from body shop by end of January.
Once I get back after our summer [Xmas] shutdown I'll get the chassis and most of the other steel parts sand blasted and powder coated.
Then I'll commence the re-assembly
I took all of the nuts and bolts to an electroplater, I had to remove all paint from nuts n bolts that were painted but that's all.
The electroplater has to acid wash everything first as part of the process so that cleans everything up perfectly
The rain gutters are from SouthBoston - Alex Durso (on this forum - send him a pm)
The LX project is progressing slowly - body should be back from body shop by end of January.
Once I get back after our summer [Xmas] shutdown I'll get the chassis and most of the other steel parts sand blasted and powder coated.
Then I'll commence the re-assembly
- Thread starter
- #111
Youve probably all read on Theos thread (ugly Betty) about the forthcoming South African Legends Bush trip (most of the 40'S in South Africa will be participating)
As this is a 12 day overland expedition I need to put together a reasonable packing system y=that could accommodate my food, drinks, tools and recovery gear.
So I cleaned the dust of the MIG/MAG bought some aluminium and knocked this together,
The frame is 25 x 2mm aluminium square tubing
The fridge slide is on the right.
The top and sides are all 2mm aluminium treadplate and the sliding drawers are bent and welded 1.6mm flat aluminium plate
The finished product
I will post some pics (after Ive taken them) of the packing system in the truck
As this is a 12 day overland expedition I need to put together a reasonable packing system y=that could accommodate my food, drinks, tools and recovery gear.
So I cleaned the dust of the MIG/MAG bought some aluminium and knocked this together,
The frame is 25 x 2mm aluminium square tubing
The fridge slide is on the right.
The top and sides are all 2mm aluminium treadplate and the sliding drawers are bent and welded 1.6mm flat aluminium plate
The finished product
I will post some pics (after Ive taken them) of the packing system in the truck
I will be the first to comment. Daaaangggg. Nice work. I can only imagine what something like that would have cost to buy.
- Thread starter
- #113
Its been a really long time since Ive done any work on this [Kermit] my 1st of 2 40's and in all fairness I dont use it as often as I should.
But the last time I drove it I noticed it had developed a bit of a cogbox whine, Rather than strip the box and repair, I had a spare box that was given to me.
So I did a complete rebuild of the spare cogbox and am now at the stage where it needs to be fitted.
Then ill rebuild the original cogbox.
As this rig revs quite high at highway speed of 110kph (compared to my FJ40LX 5spd) - Im also thinking of changing the diff ratios to 3.7:1
Awaiting a reply from Terrain Tamer in Aus if they have stock of the 3.7:1 diffs
But the last time I drove it I noticed it had developed a bit of a cogbox whine, Rather than strip the box and repair, I had a spare box that was given to me.
So I did a complete rebuild of the spare cogbox and am now at the stage where it needs to be fitted.
Then ill rebuild the original cogbox.
As this rig revs quite high at highway speed of 110kph (compared to my FJ40LX 5spd) - Im also thinking of changing the diff ratios to 3.7:1
Awaiting a reply from Terrain Tamer in Aus if they have stock of the 3.7:1 diffs
M5driver
MUD Addict (Ret.)
Keith,
Any thoughts about swapping in an H55 5-speed rather than swapping the diffs? I'm thinking I will do this when I eventually get around to doing a second frame off on the Blue Mule (which will happen... no time soon), to address the rust I couldn't fix while in Malawi. This will be the only change I am planning for the Mule this time around.
Cheers.
Dan
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- #115
Hi Dan - long time no speak
Yes a H55 5spd cogbox would be 1st prize
Unfortunately in our neck of the woods trying to find a H55 5spd cogbox is like trying to find rockinghorse sh1t
I had a lead on one a while back, but is was at a local Cruiser restoration shop and the guy wanted telephone numbers for the cogbox, and Ive also thought of buying a FJ62 using the cogbox and parting out the rest of the truck but thats as much work as a restoration.
Yes a H55 5spd cogbox would be 1st prize
Unfortunately in our neck of the woods trying to find a H55 5spd cogbox is like trying to find rockinghorse sh1t
I had a lead on one a while back, but is was at a local Cruiser restoration shop and the guy wanted telephone numbers for the cogbox, and Ive also thought of buying a FJ62 using the cogbox and parting out the rest of the truck but thats as much work as a restoration.
M5driver
MUD Addict (Ret.)
I understand, Keith. I initially thought maybe you could import a 5-speed from Oz, but importation costs can be daunting.
I've been around Mud, mostly light lurking for the past few years. Retired a few years back and have been busier than ever since then. We're finally getting the homestead under control, and hope to be able to turn attention back to the Blue Mule, since it is still a daily driver (but, very short trips right now). And other fun things.
would still like a 45 bakkie, but until I have a proper place to work on one, that will be on hold. We have the house, garden, small orchard in place now, and I'll be clearing a small part of our property to create a small pasture. THEN, I'll be able to think about getting a small workshop built.
I've been around Mud, mostly light lurking for the past few years. Retired a few years back and have been busier than ever since then. We're finally getting the homestead under control, and hope to be able to turn attention back to the Blue Mule, since it is still a daily driver (but, very short trips right now). And other fun things.
would still like a 45 bakkie, but until I have a proper place to work on one, that will be on hold. We have the house, garden, small orchard in place now, and I'll be clearing a small part of our property to create a small pasture. THEN, I'll be able to think about getting a small workshop built.
- Thread starter
- #117
Sounds like youre settling in nicely
I also retired about 18months back but our local Gubbermunts National Lockdown is playing havoc with all my vehicle restoration and work plans as all the vehicles are stored in a mini factory in Cape Town
But Good news - The Gubbermunt was taken to court by the Opposition Party and they challenged the lockdown rules, and the Gubbermunt lost - they were declared unconstitional
I also retired about 18months back but our local Gubbermunts National Lockdown is playing havoc with all my vehicle restoration and work plans as all the vehicles are stored in a mini factory in Cape Town
But Good news - The Gubbermunt was taken to court by the Opposition Party and they challenged the lockdown rules, and the Gubbermunt lost - they were declared unconstitional
