A new direction...

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Joined
Jan 18, 2006
Threads
434
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9,610
Location
Reno, Nevada
Hey all,
Im Chicago.
Ive been a 60 series owner for the past several years and have gotten to a point where I feel that my rig is just TOO BIG and HEAVY for the wheeling that I like to do.
My thought is this...
My 62 is nicely built. SOA'd, 35's locked, diffs re geared, longs etc.
Instead of giving my rig away for WAAAAY less than Ive got into it and starting over from scratch, I have the idea of picking up a "cheap" 40 and swapping the components into it.
I also have an 01, 5.3L vortec, with an 02 4L60E trans that I was planning on swapping into my 62 with an NP203 gear box to the stock case.
Ive got some building skills, so the work will all be done by ME.
My goal is a lighter and smaller rig and I want deep gearing accessable for crawling trails like Rubicon and fordice.
Now, this seems to be a pretty straight forward swap to do, but what should I be watching out for in my thinking on this? Where will the hang ups be, what should I be looking for with the 40's, given the engine and trans combo I have waiting, what would be a good crawl gear set up?

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks for reading,

Chicago
 
The drive train you have listed will be long, good tranny and doubler, but long. It should be do-able, you will probably have to either reverse the stock rear springs or swap to longer springs to move the rear axle back because of driveshaft length.

Don
 
SOA 62s are wider spring perchases the rear is easy the front not so easy Toyota lemgthend the long side of the front axel so your perchases wil be into the banjo housing can be done thou.
 
You'll absolutely love the 5.3 with 4L60E in the FJ40. What year is the FJ40 (3 spd or 4 spd transfer-case???) PM me for a complete list of the things you will need from us and/or other venders and sources!!!
 
How about just trading your butit FJ60 for a built FJ40. Do you have pics?
 
The drive train you have listed will be long, good tranny and doubler, but long. It should be do-able, you will probably have to either reverse the stock rear springs or swap to longer springs to move the rear axle back because of driveshaft length.

Don

That is kind of what I figured, but I DO PLAN on stretching the wheel base right out of the gate...
Im not opposed to scrapping the 203 idea for a different crawl box either, so long as it will mate to the 4L60E. From the little bit of research that Ive done, it seems that the Orion t case will work with this set up. Ive had the 4L60 re built and a 700R shaft installed...that seems to be the only hitch is that shaft which has been done already. At least per the AA literature. I also have the 6 to 4 blot adapter with the VSS and reluctor ring.

Thanks,

Chicago
 
i say trade her up for a 40
 
How about just trading your butit FJ60 for a built FJ40. Do you have pics?

I actually DID try that. For sale/ trade. I didnt really give it all too long though. About 2 weeks or so.
Ive got GOBS of pics of my 62. Each step of my build is documented here on Mud.
No one was interested, so I began looking for other options.
I had thought of chopping the hell out of it...The wife didnt like that idea AT ALL. Then I brought up the 40 idea and she really like that one.

Thanks for the input.

Chicago
 
SOA 62s are wider spring perchases the rear is easy the front not so easy Toyota lemgthend the long side of the front axel so your perchases wil be into the banjo housing can be done thou.

Dont you have to outboard the hangers to get it to work?

Chicago
 
Sounds like a good plan, but don't let Mace see this thread:D

Butt

:lol:

Its already been discussed in the 60's board...
He told me to get/ build a buggy. Its all good. Since im helplessly addicted to this hobby, I HAVE TO do what's right for ME and the :princess:.

Chicago
 
Dont you have to outboard the hangers to get it to work?

Chicago

yes there isn't much involved , its also a good chance to do a shackle reversal on the front .

i have 60 axles and out boarded hangers , its more stable then a normal 40 for sure .
 
Shackle reversal isn't nec. It will just add to the cost of an already expensive front driveshaft. The auto with a doubler will be long unless you do a comp cut and move the rear way back. If that is your direction I would look at the RuffStuff wayback hangers.

Jeremy
 
Sounds like a good plan, but don't let Mace see this thread:D

Butt

:flipoff2:


It all depends on what you want to do. I have taken my 40 about as far as it really can go, and it still does not climb like I would like it to because of weight.. it is only 4200 lbs but that is still too much.

Plus, the body is still a concern. I can do "buggy" trails, but it is not nice to what body I have left ;)

I'll give ya a hand with whatever you want amigo :)

btw, find some stock 60 axles and swap them back into the rig so you can still Drive the dewoodyed wagg ;)
 
I DO PLAN on stretching the wheel base right out of the gate...
Im not opposed to scrapping the 203 idea for a different crawl box either, so long as it will mate to the 4L60E. From the little bit of research that Ive done, it seems that the Orion t case will work with this set up. Ive had the 4L60 re built and a 700R shaft installed...that seems to be the only hitch is that shaft which has been done already. At least per the AA literature. I also have the 6 to 4 blot adapter with the VSS and reluctor ring.

Thanks,

Chicago

The 203 doubler will work. I've got a 203 doubler already bolted up to a 4 sp TC. I got it from a guy in Eugene that had it in his 40 (I rode in it before he took out the doubler/TC). He had a SBC 350/I think a 350 tranny/203 doubler/4 sp TC. I think he said he had flipped his rear springs to have a not too short rear driveshaft. The 203 doubler will bolt directly to the 700R4/ early 4L60E (4 bolt housing) after you change out the 700R4 output shaft to a shorter shaft you get from AA. Somewhere I got it in my head that the shorter shaft that AA sells for the 700R4/203 doubler combo is the output shaft from the 350 tranny, but not positive I'm correct.The 700R4/203 doubler/adapter/4 sp TC combo is I think only about 2" longer than the 700R4/adapter, and 4 sp TC combo.

When you go to the later model 4L60E with the different bolt pattern (and have to adapt it to the 700R4 and early 4L60E 4 bolt pattern in order to be able to bolt it up to the 203 doubler) is when I get lost as to what output shaft is needed. (whew, ran out of breath on that one)

I can get you pics of my 700R4/203 doubler/4 sp TC if it would be of any help to you. I don't have the 700R4 output shaft changed yet so it is not bolted together.

I HAD planned on putting this combo behind a mildly built GM 292 I-6, but I think plans are changing. Last week I picked up a 1983 2WD Chev PU with the 6.2 diesel/700R4 combo for real cheap. I'm driving it right now to check the condition of the 6.2 and tranny. This is my first diesel and am falling in love with the low end torque (my reason for origionally planning for the 292 swap). So far the mileage reputation of the 6.2/6.5 appears to be in line. I've driven it about 100 miles and the fuel guage needle has only just touched the top of the full mark. I've heard good reports from owners that the 5.3 you are planning on using is also good on fuel mileage.

Don
 
The 203 doubler will work. I've got a 203 doubler already bolted up to a 4 sp TC. I got it from a guy in Eugene that had it in his 40 (I rode in it before he took out the doubler/TC). He had a SBC 350/I think a 350 tranny/203 doubler/4 sp TC. I think he said he had flipped his rear springs to have a not too short rear driveshaft. The 203 doubler will bolt directly to the 700R4/ early 4L60E (4 bolt housing) after you change out the 700R4 output shaft to a shorter shaft you get from AA. Somewhere I got it in my head that the shorter shaft that AA sells for the 700R4/203 doubler combo is the output shaft from the 350 tranny, but not positive I'm correct.The 700R4/203 doubler/adapter/4 sp TC combo is I think only about 2" longer than the 700R4/adapter, and 4 sp TC combo.

When you go to the later model 4L60E with the different bolt pattern (and have to adapt it to the 700R4 and early 4L60E 4 bolt pattern in order to be able to bolt it up to the 203 doubler) is when I get lost as to what output shaft is needed. (whew, ran out of breath on that one)

I can get you pics of my 700R4/203 doubler/4 sp TC if it would be of any help to you. I don't have the 700R4 output shaft changed yet so it is not bolted together.

I HAD planned on putting this combo behind a mildly built GM 292 I-6, but I think plans are changing. Last week I picked up a 1983 2WD Chev PU with the 6.2 diesel/700R4 combo for real cheap. I'm driving it right now to check the condition of the 6.2 and tranny. This is my first diesel and am falling in love with the low end torque (my reason for origionally planning for the 292 swap). So far the mileage reputation of the 6.2/6.5 appears to be in line. I've driven it about 100 miles and the fuel guage needle has only just touched the top of the full mark. I've heard good reports from owners that the 5.3 you are planning on using is also good on fuel mileage.

Don

Thanks for the input.
Since I have the motor trans and t case set up and ready to go (almost...still need the headers, wiring and some misc stuff) Ill try to run that. I was pricing the atlas and orion...OOUCH.
Id LOVE to see pics of that set up since youre offering!
What shifter did you end up running on that set up?
Do you have any pics of the linkages?
Did you use an e fan/ or mech?

Chicago
 
post some pics of your ride if you would.

Will do!
Ill do that later tonight.
OOOOR, just run a search under my user name and youll find everything.

Either way, Ill post up.

If someone wanted to do a trade across, Id be into that.

Chicago
 
We should talk Chicago. I am thinking about thinning my herd.

My 40 is already set up with FJ60 axles. (And yes, you do need to outboard the fronts.)

It would benifit from a new drivetrain, for sure. The wheelbase is 99 inches and so there would be enough for the auto trans, but I'm not sure about the doubler. It would be easier to run an Orion or and Atlas with a centered rear.

Let me know if you want to consider this, but honestly if you want a light weight wheeler build a minitruck which is easier, and much cheaper.
 

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