A Couple FJ60 Pointers Needed (newb content ahead!)

[Swedish Chef]

Hi Everyone, I'll admit this first -- I'm out of my element for now but will be diving into this Landcruiser stuff headfirst! I'm a Volvo nut (specifically RWD 240/740 series. Enough so that Volvos are my profession currently. Parts and tech specifically) -- all I've ever owned until yesterday has been Volvos. I am however the happy new owner of a beautiful 1987 FJ60. It has 181,000 miles, has no rust and is crazy clean throughout. So far I've come across a couple things I'm hoping you all experts can help me out with! First is the engine temp. What is the normal operating range of a typical FJ60? As I don't have anything but the factory temp gauge installed I don't know the actual temp the coolant is running at I'm wondering what is considered "normal" on the factory gauge? Over the couple drives I've taken it on so far, it never seems to go above about 1/8 of the way up the gauge. According to the owner's manual this is within the normal operating temp, but from my experience with other cars, this seems too cold. Which leads me to my next question... It takes a while to start when it's cold -- like 15-20 seconds with the pedal pumped twice, then the choke all the way out. Given it's been in the 30s here it still seems that it should start quicker than that. Additionally, once I'm warmed up a little and driving with the choke pushed all the way back in (totally disengaged) the car wants to buck a little in 2nd gear and not accelerate smoothly. First is smooth, 2nd isn't as smooth as I'd like it, and 3rd/4th seem smooth enough. Basically it acts like it's running out of fuel in 2nd. If I give it more gas on the pedal it seems smoother and if I pull out the choke a little it seems smoother over acceleration too. Would the cold running engine contribute to this, as a cold engine needs more fuel this would make sense to me, but what do I know?!?! I'm a Volvo guy! Lastly on this, on the last drive I took it out on to the grocery store earlier it had a bit of a wandering idle when I pulled back into the driveway and it ran on for about a second or so after I shut the key off. I figure first thing I will work on is a full inspection of all vacuum lines and check for vacuum leaks ahead of the combustion chamber. Any other ideas from you all? I'd love to get any and all input on these 2 things from the experts (you guys!) as I need to take it through DEQ emissions testing in the next couple days so I can get it registered in my name and transfer the title over. It did just pass emissions in California last month for the previous owner (printout to prove it) but I'd still like to get it running as smooth as possible before I get it tested and of course I want it in the best tune possible overall just because I'm super anal! Sorry for the long post and for the potentially newbie questions! I appreciate all your input and am really looking forward to becoming involved in this community! Cheers!

 

[mrsvle]

The hesitation in second gear is most likely a sticky EGR valve. A common problem with these vehicles, search and you'll find lots of discussion on this issue.

Dieseling after you shut off the engine is likely the fuel cut-off solenoid on the carb. Also a common issue. Search.

Welcome to the club. It's a 20 year old vehicle so you'll likely be taking care of various mechanical issues for a while. I've had mine for 12 years now and I'll never get rid of it.

HTH

Matt

 

[NocalFJ60]

Välkommen till ih8mud!

Hope you enjoy the new 60. Search just the 60 forum and you can read for hours.

 

[Dave-T]

Welcome to mud! Where in CA are you?

The 2F engine is very cold-blooded. Takes awhile to warm up. 2 things you can do about the temp is to pull the thermostat and test it (make sure it isn't just staying open) or measure the actual temp of your coolant with a thermometer.

Make sure your choke is operating properly by removing the air cleaner cover and observing it function.

Some of your other symptoms point towards a carb rebuild. Let me tell you it makes a HUGE difference if it's never been done before. Also as you mentioned go through your vacuum lines and check the routing and replace damaged lines.

 

[philos1]

Welcome! (official mud greeting)

X2 on the t-stat, as well as vacuum lines and maybe (probably) a carb rebuild.

I'll have to hit you up on my Volvo seats I'm installing in my 60- lots of wires So expect a PM from me sometime...


Now get some pics of your rig up!

 

[boots4]

Hurray, another 60 in the portland area! (location says PDX so that's what I'm guessing) I know when I ran my 2F it started better with 3-4 pumps and it ran on full choke for a minute or two before it would start warming up. Then I would step down the choke cable as I drove. A lot of your volvo knowledge will carry over and I'm sure you'll have it running how you want it. Show us some pics!

 

[Swedish Chef]

The hesitation in second gear is most likely a sticky EGR valve. A common problem with these vehicles, search and you'll find lots of discussion on this issue.

Dieseling after you shut off the engine is likely the fuel cut-off solenoid on the carb. Also a common issue. Search.

Welcome to the club. It's a 20 year old vehicle so you'll likely be taking care of various mechanical issues for a while. I've had mine for 12 years now and I'll never get rid of it.

HTH

Matt

I have done some searching and done a little reading on the EGR and fuel cut off solenoid, but there is plenty more for me to read! I do love to tinker so I'm looking forward to keeping it going! Before this my daily driver (which is still in my driveway) is a 1984 Volvo 240 wagon w/ over 300,000 miles on it which takes some serious tinkering to keep up to the level I like. Even more so now that I turbocharged it -- 10.5:1 compression ratio + boost = hold on!

Welcome to mud! Where in CA are you?

The 2F engine is very cold-blooded. Takes awhile to warm up. 2 things you can do about the temp is to pull the thermostat and test it (make sure it isn't just staying open) or measure the actual temp of your coolant with a thermometer.

Make sure your choke is operating properly by removing the air cleaner cover and observing it function.

Some of your other symptoms point towards a carb rebuild. Let me tell you it makes a HUGE difference if it's never been done before. Also as you mentioned go through your vacuum lines and check the routing and replace damaged lines.

I'm actually in Portland, OR. The guy I bought it from just moved up here from the Lake Tahoe area and I haven't had a chance to register it here yet.
I'll definitely add choke inspection to my list. I think I also might swap the thermostat just because -- it certainly won't hurt anything! Might also give me a chance to "T" a radiator hose so I can insert a sensor for a real temp gauge so I'm more certain what temp it's really running at.

Welcome! (official mud greeting)

X2 on the t-stat, as well as vacuum lines and maybe (probably) a carb rebuild.

I'll have to hit you up on my Volvo seats I'm installing in my 60- lots of wires So expect a PM from me sometime...


Now get some pics of your rig up!

Thanks for the greeting! You can definitely hit me up on any Volvo stuff! As it's my day job -- the company I work for specialized in performance/maintenance of all model Volvos all the way from the 50s to brand new and I have the ability to get you pretty much any diagram/etc you would need. Certainly PM me if I can help!
What can y'all tell me about a carb rebuild? Worth it to get a kit and rebuild it myself? Or should I leave it to a pro? I'll do some forum searching on this one as I'm sure it's a super-newb question you guys get asked all the time!
I will get some pics up very soon! Just need to get some good shots of it and they'll be posted here!

Hurray, another 60 in the portland area! (location says PDX so that's what I'm guessing) I know when I ran my 2F it started better with 3-4 pumps and it ran on full choke for a minute or two before it would start warming up. Then I would step down the choke cable as I drove. A lot of your volvo knowledge will carry over and I'm sure you'll have it running how you want it. Show us some pics!

Yes I am in Portland -- SE to be exact. It's been so damn cold here in P-Town over the last couple days -- I'll see if a couple extra pumps on the gas before I turn it over help.
I'm certainly hoping my Volvo knowledge will carry over! One of the reasons I picked this rig is because I see it to be very similar to Volvos. Tough, long lasting, etc.
Thanks to everyone so far and keep it coming if you have any other ideas for me! You guys are awesome!

 

[Heartworm]

about that thermostat

One of the most common causes of the 2F not warming up fully is the omission of the "O" ring gasket that goes on the top of the thermostat.

 

[Dave-T]

You sure figured out the multi-quote function fast...

Also you can buy and install a block heater for the 2F.

 

[jdunkman]

When it's cold out, mine won't start without full choke and 10 - 15 pumps. That's with a relatively new Jim C carb and good ignition. Yours is probably fine in that regard. Just try giving it more gas, it should start quicker. I've never flooded mine. I think it is impossible to flood these motors.

Didn't see this addressed in any replies, I think normal coolant temp is 195. Anyone???

 

[hank14]

Welcome to the Landcruiser world.

"Might also give me a chance to "T" a radiator hose so I can insert a sensor for a real temp gauge so I'm more certain what temp it's really running at."

When you do this, please post pics and specs of what parts you use and where you do it. Others have talked about it, but I still haven't figured out the best way to do this.

Search for carburetor rebuild, and almost everyone here will recommend fj40Jim. He ha a solid reputation.

Good luck and lets see some pics!

 

[MT-PTK]

For my rig it's two pumps, pull the choke out, turn key, and bang! Starts right up. I'm fairly new to the 60 so still learning myself.. Plus my rig was de-smogged so I couldn't help you on the vac lines and such.


A Volvo guy heh, I've got an 98 V70, and a 2000 S70. Here's a question for you if you don't mind: After disconnecting the battery to work on my S70, the SRS light came on after hooking it back up. Is there a way to shut it back off? I know how to shut off the check engine light in the V70. Is there a similar way to turn off the SRS?


Thnak you and welcome!


William

 

[Tinker]

Mr. MT's starting procedure is what you're seeking. Your symptoms point to the entire smog control/leaking intake manifold bag o worms we've all been through (or are facing). My stock '83 starts like MT's & runs like a champ but it's had a lot of work.

Oh, yeah! Welcome! Even if you support commie skandarooski products (just kidding, nazi Audi DD myself).

 

[Swedish Chef]

When it's cold out, mine won't start without full choke and 10 - 15 pumps. That's with a relatively new Jim C carb and good ignition. Yours is probably fine in that regard. Just try giving it more gas, it should start quicker. I've never flooded mine. I think it is impossible to flood these motors.

After tinkering a little more yesterday I've already got it runnin' a bit smoother and startin' up quicker. Seems the previous owner was not so careful when reconnecting all the different vacuum lines/air lines after changing the air filter last... Put in new air filter, double checked all the lines and now she's purring! After this it now starts much easier as well. 2 pumps of the pedal, pull choke all the way out, and she fires up nice and quick.

Welcome to the Landcruiser world.

"Might also give me a chance to "T" a radiator hose so I can insert a sensor for a real temp gauge so I'm more certain what temp it's really running at."

When you do this, please post pics and specs of what parts you use and where you do it. Others have talked about it, but I still haven't figured out the best way to do this.

Search for carburetor rebuild, and almost everyone here will recommend fj40Jim. He ha a solid reputation.

Good luck and lets see some pics!

I'll definitely post up some pics when I T the line for a temp sensor and real gauge! I'll also look into the carb rebuild by fj40jim info! Thanks for the tip! Also, here's a couple of pics -- not great ones as I've not had a chance to snap better ones!

A Volvo guy heh, I've got an 98 V70, and a 2000 S70. Here's a question for you if you don't mind: After disconnecting the battery to work on my S70, the SRS light came on after hooking it back up. Is there a way to shut it back off? I know how to shut off the check engine light in the V70. Is there a similar way to turn off the SRS?

I'm happy to help with Volvo questions if I can! It's not uncommon for your SRS light to activate after power has been totally disconnected. Bad news is that you have to reset it using the VADIS/VIDA system that Volvo uses. So you're stuck either going to a dealer or a Volvo shop that has access to VADIS to reset it. Too bad you're not still in Oregon -- you could have brought it down to the shop here at my work and we'd do it for you for free.

Oh, yeah! Welcome! Even if you support commie skandarooski products (just kidding, nazi Audi DD myself).

Thanks for the welcome! Audis are nice too............ but they're certainly no Volvo!

 

[boots4]

That one sure is clean, good pick!

... I've never flooded mine. I think it is impossible to flood these motors.

I can't remember if I've flooded it on cold starts but I've flooded it before and my wife has flooded it. It happened after it was warmed up and was shut off for a short period and then restarted i.e., when filling up the tank at the gas station. But now I don't have to worry about flooding it anymore...Diesel!

 

[Pighead]

Third thing you can do about the temp...put a piece of cardboard in front of half the radiator until the spring...works for me.

 

[Esther]

Hey, welcome to MUD. I have been using this site and I trust it like the bible for my 86 fj60. Sometimes it is hard to find certain bits of info, but if you are willing to read a lot, it useally shows up. ANYWAY... For your temp, try burping your system. I changed my water pump a couple months back and noticed my temp was a bit higher. Someone here suggested I burp the coolant system and that cleared it up. To do this, position the truck so that the radiator filler tube is up high (nose up, front passenger side wheel had a 4x4 under it), start the truck and add coolant as the truck warms up. All the air will vent out the filler tube as you are adding more coolant. Fixed my temp problem.
One more thing, I had a 1982(I Think) DL240 sedan. Best Car I ever owned, it would not die. I drove from Alabama to Ohio on three cyclinders and she only slowed down a tad going up hills. If I ever get out of cruisers, I'll go back to the 240.

 

[Swedish Chef]

One more thing, I had a 1982(I Think) DL240 sedan. Best Car I ever owned, it would not die. I drove from Alabama to Ohio on three cyclinders and she only slowed down a tad going up hills. If I ever get out of cruisers, I'll go back to the 240.

A man after my own heart! I'm a Volvo lover, and specifically a 240 NUT. I've owned several and I've loved them all. The current one I have is a 1980, has over 300,000 miles and just won't quit. It still has solid compression across all cylinders and I trusted it enough to do this to it (see attached pic). I've now been throwing about 7psi of boost at it with the same high compression ratio (10.5:1) for over 1000 miles on the totally stock, 27 year old fuel system and it's taking it in stride.
Thanks too for the tip on burping the system -- as long as it doesn't involve holding it over my shoulder and tapping it gently on the back I think I can handle it!

 

[MT-PTK]

Thanks. That's what I was afraid of. Well, off to the dealer. If I were still in Oregon I would take you up on your offer.

I like Volvos. They're tanks that just won't die.....kind of like Landcruisers.

William

I'm happy to help with Volvo questions if I can! It's not uncommon for your SRS light to activate after power has been totally disconnected. Bad news is that you have to reset it using the VADIS/VIDA system that Volvo uses. So you're stuck either going to a dealer or a Volvo shop that has access to VADIS to reset it. Too bad you're not still in Oregon -- you could have brought it down to the shop here at my work and we'd do it for you for free.

[/quote]

 

[RredFJ40]

iPd - Why don't you guys carry more Diesel stuff!? (82 244 w/D24 driver here!)

I think it's been said here before - Volvos are the Land Cruisers of the car world

nice rig by the way