99' Manual Parking Brake Operation

[sdb999]

99' SR5, Manual, 335k miles.
Replaced brakes: New Calipers, Wheel Cylinders, Pads/Shoes, Rotors/Drums and Parking Brake Cable. No real problems on install except leaking from caliper, it's being returned so I have a few days to figure out the parking brake adjustment. Service Manual was pretty worthless on setting up new rear brakes, and full disclosure I hate drum brakes. Anyway, got them back together just fine but of course I've not been able to drive the vehicle so I'm doing all this on the lift.

I've adjusted the rear shoes, both sides, until they just start to touch the drum (audible shhhh, once per revolution). In this case I stopped and bleed all corners. Found the leaking front-driver's caliper, removed it and capped the line.

Went back to adjusting the parking brake cable.

• Set free play at pull arms per manual, set the parking brake at three clicks.
• Drivers side worked fine, not locked up but off the stop and starting to hold. Passengers side....nothing, didn't even move.
• Seven clicks, Driver's side is locked solid and cable is tight. Passenger side.....nothing, cable still slack.

Looking at the cable setup it's not clear to me how passenger side gets any tension as the main cable goes only to drivers side, then there is a secondary cable from there to passenger. Nothing binding, nothing missing, nothing loose just not getting any pull out of the secondary cable to actuate passenger side. Any help/comments greately appreciated.
Thanks, S.

 

[gnob]

both work when manually actuating the arm?

is the pivot on the axle stuck or bolted wrong?

 

[sdb999]

both work when manually actuating the arm?

is the pivot on the axle stuck or bolted wrong?

@gnob thanks for quick response. Everything is bolted up like original. Yes, pivot is free to move as intended. Is there a different parking brake cable for 15" and 16" wheels? I installed the 16" brakes on this SR5, it was originally 15" wheels. As far as I could tell only the calipers/wheel cylinders and rotors are different. Master cylinder and drums are same on both, but I assumed parking brake cable was same too. I'll have to look that up cause it appears the secondary cable might be too long.

 

[gnob]

any way to verify length against the old part?

 

[sdb999]

I just did, the secondary cables are the same length. I cycled it a few more times, although I'm now getting tension in the secondary it's still not supplying the same stoke to the passenger side. At seven clicks of the handle I have 1" of arm travel on drivers side (locked solid), 1/2" on passenger side (wheel just spins). I can pull the entire cable and lay them both down on the floor but there is no reason for them to be different. All the components they touch are same parts for all 3rd gen. It's a head scratcher for sure.

 

[sdb999]

Confirmed that I ordered brake cable (46410-35801) to match all other components: Description: All 4Runners 4WD w/16" wheels. This should all work like factory. It is one of those parts where Toyota has five or six different numbers with not much to differentiate, RockAuto has one fitment 4Runner, 16" wheels. I think I'll have to get some miles on these drum brakes before they can be adjusted with any reliability. Once the shoes are worn into the drum maybe things will even out.

 

[aztoyman]

When you apply the parking brake, whatever side moves easiest, moves first. Once it starts to touch the drum and gets resistance to movement, the other side will start to move. I don't think you can adjust both sides exactly the same and have it simultaneously apply. Maybe it's "supposed to" by design but mine never have. I just fiddle with it until I'm happy with the operation.

IDK if you ever messed with old cantilever bicycle brakes. Kind of the same concept. Except on the bikes they had screws where you could adjust the tension on each side so it would apply both sides at the same time. We don't have that option on our trucks.

Just try adjusting each side until they are as close as you can get them. You are correct that you will have to recheck as they get some wear. The shoes will wear in to each drum. Years ago we used a tool to arc in the shoes so they fit the drum. If you don't, they don't really get full contact until they get some wear on them.

Good luck with it. I'm sure you'll get them dialed in.

 

[sdb999]

When you apply the parking brake, whatever side moves easiest, moves first. Once it starts to touch the drum and gets resistance to movement, the other side will start to move. I don't think you can adjust both sides exactly the same and have it simultaneously apply. Maybe it's "supposed to" by design but mine never have. I just fiddle with it until I'm happy with the operation.

IDK if you ever messed with old cantilever bicycle brakes. Kind of the same concept. Except on the bikes they had screws where you could adjust the tension on each side so it would apply both sides at the same time. We don't have that option on our trucks.

Just try adjusting each side until they are as close as you can get them. You are correct that you will have to recheck as they get some wear. The shoes will wear in to each drum. Years ago we used a tool to arc in the shoes so they fit the drum. If you don't, they don't really get full contact until they get some wear on them.

Good luck with it. I'm sure you'll get them dialed in.

Thanks @aztoyman for the words of encouragement. Sadly yes, I'm old enough to remember the cantilever (perfect analogy) and coaster brakes on bikes as a kid. And bent pedals, snapped forks, bent rims, etc. during the bmx phase.....but of course before bmx bikes were available or affordable. Good times. At least I'm confident I'm in the ballpark with this project.
S.

 

[dannymontani]

One more possibility...as I just did all 4 corners. Could you have possibly not connected the cable in the drum to the lever.? Sometimes ya know...s*** happens.

 

[sdb999]

One more possibility...as I just did all 4 corners. Could you have possibly not connected the cable in the drum to the lever.? Sometimes ya know...s*** happens.

Hahahahaha, yes @dannymontani I did that on the first assemble. Installed the drum, turned around and there in the parts cart lay relay cable. Doh! I'm waiting for a new caliper, first one leaked out of the box. Should get back at it by the weekend. Thanks

 

[sdb999]

All back together, 16” wheel “big brakes” (big-ER anyway) and a new parking brake cable. One bedding, and two test drives and it’s sublime. Parking brake definitely wants the rest of the system to be settled in first. Second bleeding (after first bedding/test drive) produced some bubbles. Bled all corners and the Second test drive felt great! Came in and went through parking brake adjustment and we are set. Returned vehicle to customer (wife) and she loved it. “Best the brakes have ever been”. She’s the original owner of this 99’, and very particular so that’s high praise. Thanks for all the help/encouragement. @dannymontani and @aztoyman.

For future searchers: 99’ sr5, 15” wheels was upgraded to 16” wheels. Toyota offered larger brakes for 16” rims. Yes, that’s odd I know. Once you have bigger wheels.

• Don’t replace: Master Cylinder and rear drums ( unless worn). They are the same for 15” or 16” wheels.
• Replace/swap: front calipers and rotors, rear wheel cylinders, pads/shoes. These are specific to 16” wheels.

Brake balance is maintained with both front and rear hydraulics swapped together. Same master cylinder supplies sufficient pressure and volume for both.

 

[dannymontani]

Excellent. Guess I'll do a second bleed myself for the heck of it. Bedding..... right!

 

[sdb999]

Yes, after the bedding run I come back and do a second bleed. Seems I always have a few bubbles. Especially after installing calipers/wheel cylinders.

 

[Learning Outdoors]

Great thread and info from everyone. I posted on my experience with ABS on my 1998 but on a recent situation with a very loose handbrake lever, removal of the drums (rear only of course) it turned out that there's an adjustment plate made of ~16 gauge sheet metal. It has tabs that will snap off if you have a driver that pulls the lever aggressively when parking. Granted, in many coastal areas along the west, we have hills and slopes where you'd think the lever being pulled will do its job. Gotta pull that sucker to avoid forcing the tranny forks I guess. Well, bad engineering on these little parts and when they break, the rear brakes will no longer self-adjust. The system (as mentioned elsewhere) is designed to adjust each time the lever is pulled up. Alas, the weenie sheet metal tabs break and the handbrake become useless.

Step by Step Tacoma Rear Drum Brake Shoe Replacement (also 4Runner) | AdventureTaco

Get links to the necessary parts (not expensive), tools (only basic ones are needed), and photos of every step. Let's get started!

adventuretaco.com

 

[sdb999]

Great picture! For future reference that small adjustment wheel with ratchet teeth is accessible from back side without removing wheel or drum. Look for the oblong rubber plug. From that position you can adjust shoes tighter. If you go too far they can be loosened as well from the same hole, just need another tool (I use a 90 degree pick) to push the ratchet pawl off the wheel while turning wheel in opposite direction. Of course if those pawls are snapped off all bets are off.