'98 LC100 Drivetrain Vibration (1 Viewer)

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Jun 26, 2004
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So I went down to Washington and imported am LC100 back to Canada and absolutely love the vehicle, especially since i bought it before I had even taken one for a test drive. Now I'm no stranger to used 4x4's and have tracked down many vibrations in vehicles that i have bought, but this is the first one with IFS. So, after the drive back home, i ordered the u-joints from CruiserDan in Albuquerque and installed them...no difference. To back up here...the vibration starts at about 50 mph and then gets a little better at about 65 mph but it seems to be getting a little bit worse day by day.

So, after the u-joints, we changed the front inner and outer bearings and the vibration is still there. We removed the front drive shaft just to keep going in our diagnosis and the vibration was still there. We then examined the cv axles and noted that there seems to be some up and down movement and side to side movement. So I am thinking the axle shaft assemblies and axle tube bearings.

My question to those of you with much more experience than I, is there supposed to be much play in these axle shaft assemblies? And if the axle tube bearings sound like they might be the problem, does anyone have the number off of those bearings because I'm trying to source them up here in Canada and I really don't want to bug CruiserDan again with this type of question, if i can help it.

Greg
 
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Are you SURE it's driveline vibration and not the tires? You should have felt my last set from all the wheeling. Above 50 it was irritating and above 75MPH the truck actually shook and shuddered like it was falling apart.
 
The tires are new and I'll get them checked, but it does seem to be more of a rumble than a tire noise. Any idea on how much play the axles should have?

Greg
 
x2 on investigating the tires/wheels first since they are more commonly the problem. Even new tires don't always balance well. Try even rotating the tires from to back to see if there is a difference.
 
x2 on investigating the tires/wheels first since they are more commonly the problem. Even new tires don't always balance well. Try even rotating the tires from to back to see if there is a difference.
x10 - BTW, I experienced same problem just with some dirt, ice & snow, colected on inner side of the wheels. Washed it off and vibration gone... :steer:
 
Ditto on the wheel balance. Even 1/2 or 1/4 of an ounce on a wheel can make a noticable difference at highway speeds. After having my 275/70-16 BFG ATs rebalance a couple of times I still get a slight vibration around 70mph. I just live with it.
 
OK OK about the tires...i'll check them out tomorrow and get back to you all. :)

On the slight chance that it's not the tires, can anyone give me any info on the cv shafts and what would be acceptable movement?

Greg
 
so I had the tires road force balanced today and that did nothing to help my vibration problem. To recap, I've changed out the u-joints and front inner and outer bearings and had the tires balanced with no change. Next will be the CV axle shafts and half shaft bearings.

Greg
 
Your description was similar to my experience with wheel balance and alignment. That smoothed the ride a good deal, but, I still had a somewhat bouncy RF wheel that did not go away when I rotated tires. Turned out to be the front shocks - replaced under warranty.

You are tackling most culprits, so you should get to the cause soon. Best wishes.
 
So we replaced the CV axles and still no change. Since i road force balanced the tires, I'm going to get the drive shafts balanced to rule them out.

To update:

- vibration in front end from 50 mph to 70 mph...
- does not stop when shifting into neutral...
- seems to vary with speed
- does not change when power is applied or removed
- does not change when cornering or brakes are applied

Work completed so far:

- Front brakes were done when Cruiser purchased
- changed out both u-joints on each drive shaft
- removed front drive shaft, drove and replaced
- changed out both inner and outer front wheel bearings and races on both sides
- changed out both front CV drive axles

There has been little or no change. Did find some filings in the front differential oil and a small piece of metal maybe 1/16" thick and 1/8"x1/8" in the oil.

Greg

DrainPlug2.jpg
 
Not unlikely that your sliding yokes are stuck. Pull the shafts apart, clean up the splines. There is a thread on it somewhere in here.
Could even be too high grease pressure, One advice is to unscrew the zerk to see that there is no pressure inside.

If the splines don't slide easily, they will put a pressure on the UJ's so that they are forced out of balance.

I got the same thing yesterday, after greasing the shafts. (Didn't undo the zerks :whoops:) Gonna do the splines in the WE.
 
One more thought...I am not sure this would cause a vibration but it might...and certainly it would cause noise if not lubed. There is a needle bearing inside the steering arm. Its easy to miss or forget lubing when the CV axles are out. The CV axle rides on this needle bearing. Other than that and the proper lubing of the driveshafts mentioned above by uHu I can't imagine what's left to check (assuming the mechanic got everything set-up, lubed and adjusted properly).

One other thought: Is it possible you or someone dinged one of but probably more likely the rear drive shaft throwing it out of true? And I think you stated...but too lazy to read back through all the posts...are you sure you just don't have a bad tire with possibly a bad belt or carcass?
 
Thanks for the suggestions. When I did the u-joints, I pulled apart the shafts and checked the slip joints which seemed fine but I'm open to all suggestions at this point as the next steps will get pricy. Regarding the needle bearing, I'm kind stumped as to which one you are talking about.

Greg
 
Thanks for the suggestions. When I did the u-joints, I pulled apart the shafts and checked the slip joints which seemed fine but I'm open to all suggestions at this point as the next steps will get pricy. Regarding the needle bearing, I'm kind stumped as to which one you are talking about.

Greg

The needle bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle. The CV shaft rolls on this bearing. I think Christo might have fabbed a special lube tool from a spare hub flange that allows you to pump grease into the bearing without removing the steering knuckle...which is what you'll need to do if you don't have or make one of these 'tools'.

I think we're all stretching for ideas for you as you seem to have covered all the obvious things.
 
Its not your tires, its your rims that are causing the vibration.
Swap them and be done with it.
 
I'm very interested in this spindle bearing...not being used to working on IFS vehicles, this one totally eluded me. I checked the TSM and found the bearing and need a little more information on it. Is it a true needle bearing because the failure would create a rumble just like what I'm experiencing. Do they tend to fail or are we really grasping at straws here?

Greg
 
I'm very interested in this spindle bearing...not being used to working on IFS vehicles, this one totally eluded me. I checked the TSM and found the bearing and need a little more information on it. Is it a true needle bearing because the failure would create a rumble just like what I'm experiencing. Do they tend to fail or are we really grasping at straws here?

Greg


Yes it is a true needle bearing. Christo would be the better person to answer regarding failure rate. But IIRC, when I did my 4.88, ARB and complete bearing renew I was told not to worry about it because they don't typically fail. FWIW: I too had a rumble I just couldn't figure out. It was slower speed and only prevalent when turning DS...and the sound seemed to emanate from the PS front axle side. I tore it down and cleaned and lubed the needle bearing again and the noise has mostly gone away. The rest just might be the MTR knobs ;)
 
Alas,

I have no solutions, only questions. I just purchased a 2003 LC that I thought I went over with a fine tooth comb and even had my mechanic check out.

Everything seemed fine until the :princess: and the kids were in the LC and my wife says to me "what's that noise?" Huh? and yup when slowing or under 45 MPH or so with very little throttle you can hear, more than feel, a low resonating frequency. Now I can no longer "not hear it".

All of the driving I did during testing - nearly 40 miles, I just never picked up on it, and no I did not the stereo blasting. All testing done with stereo off, until I tested the stereo.

So based on this current thread (and I will probably start a new one) should I be checking tires? Needle bearings etc?

It is just a low resonant sound that kind of builds and builds and seems to kind of echo (for lack of a better word) from the front to the back seating areas. Somewhat like when the kids crack their rear window and you get that fluttering sound, but this is a low constant drone.

Argggghhhhhhh... now it is driving me crazy. Buying a used LC that was perviously used as a commuter/mall/kid transporter/ should have been a "no brainer."

I just feel guilty for missing this after the extensive road test and mechanic inspection.

Help!
 
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What is no one awake at 2:00AM PST?

I don't know if this matters yet and it is 2 in the flippn morning, but after searching etc, I may have found my noise problem, but please chime in if someone else has an idea.

It seems that some people point to the vibration dampener, or lack of as a possible problem. My 1998 LC had it, and I yanked it off when removing the side steps. I didn't notice the difference, but I did not know what it was when I took it off.

I looked under the 2003 LC and it is also missing, never installed, or is located in a different spot on 2003. It's late, so off to bed.

I also read about exhaust booming. Could this be the same and would it still be covered beyond the 60K warranty because it is a known TSB?

It is just the most annoying droning. It seems to get louder the slower you go. Just the opposite of what noise is supposed to do.

Help!
 

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