98 4runner... slowest build thread ever (1 Viewer)

[Mr Chuck Norris]

can you get the width and height measurements of your CB? I need a new small one to fit a small opening in my trucks dash..

thanks

I measured 4 7/8" x 1 11/16", unknown depth as it's stuffed in my dash. Uniden says 6 5/8" depth and their measurements are pretty close.

I got this one as it was on sale super cheap at a local store, and small enough to fit in my ashtray slot with minimal cutting.

I built a set from Teflon and they dry rotted after a year or so. So pay close attention to those after some wheeling and time.

How big is the hole?

Bellscb.com has most all the sizes listed for every cb he has.

I'll keep a close eye on them, thanks! Turns out it is HDPE plastic too, not UHMW. I compared it to some UHMW I had and it's harder. We'll see how it holds up.

And Bellscb seems to be off on their dimensions FYI.

 

[onemanarmy]

That's what i needed...thanks

 

[Brake Weight]

And Bellscb seems to be off on their dimensions FYI.

Which dimension is off? Most lengths/depths vary from vendor to vendor. But you can find an owners manual pdf with a picture and measurements.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Which dimension is off? Most lengths/depths vary from vendor to vendor. But you can find an owners manual pdf with a picture and measurements.

Actual dimensions are posted earlier...

13 D X 6 W X 3 H

I think it may be the box dimensions listed on their site.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Picked up some more plastic today, and after lots of playing around I finally figured out a good way to make 3/4" spacers for the rear that work with the cone bump stops. The 4runner now sits in my garage with the rear suspension torn apart.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Welp, I got the everything together and found that half of my lower control arm bushings are toast. Picking up new bushings today.

The new tires are awesome, but the power and MPG hit is definitely noticeable with the 265/75s. There's no way I'd stick with 4.10s with these tires. Luckily, I'm picking up 4.30 e-locked diffs tomorrow.

Pics to come soon.

 

[jynx]

Sounds like you may have opened Pandora's box.

Wonder if those tires are heavier or something? I have been tracking my mileage since I put the 265/75 bfg's on and after about 4k miles I am averaging a solid 18.5 corrected mpg. The one thing that may be different is that the bfg's do have a narrower contact patch so the rolling resistance is probably less than the old 265/70s, even with the "same" section width.

 

[Brake Weight]

Figure the circumference of the factory tire and the new tire. Get the factory size from the door jamb, or both from a website that sells them. The advertised size usually isn't a true size. Diameter x pi = circumference. Divide the smaller number by the larger number and you'll get a new number. This is a 'ratio' to divide the averaged mpg using your odometer as normal.

Ex. 33" vs 30".

33x3.14=103.62
30x3.14= 94.2
94.2/103.62=.909repeating. Or .91

So if your normal way mileage is 16mpg?
16/.91=17.58mpg

It's confusing at first. But all it really is, is the rolling difference of the two tires in a %. Once that is known you can adjust the mileage by adding to what the odometer didn't.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Thanks for the lesson... but I know how to do math.

My door jamb is also wrong as my truck was port-equipped with 16's like most SR5s were. But my 265/70s were 30.6" diameter, and my Duratracs are 31.6". That's a 3.3% increase, so I would have to multiply my measured MPG by 1.033 to correct it. Considering I was averaging 18-19 before and I'm looking at 15ish so far this tank, that's more than 3.3%.

Once I regear to 4.30s it will correct out to be slightly lower overall gearing than before, which will be nice for my driving. I'm sure the weight of the tires will hurt a bit but it'll definitely be better. I'm just glad that I have these diffs on the way.



Now... onto pics!

My driveway isn't very level, but overall I think the truck sits nicely level right now. I have the lingering feeling that I may want the rear end to sit a little higher... my rear spacers (3/4") combined with the cone bump stops (3/8") give 1 1/8" lift, so if I went to a 1 1/2" poly rear spacer it might sit a little better.

 

[jynx]

Wow! Down to 15 mpg, that is a big hit. I definitely like the stance, I think you have sold me on a set of spacers. I have been thinking about adding a 3/4" to the front.

Did you have the tires on before the spacers? If so did you have any rubbing? I only rub on the passenger front, and it is only because some Yah-hoo pulled the liner out and didn't put it back in correctly so it sticks out on that side. I am thinking 3/4" will get me just enough to get away from the liner.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Wow! Down to 15 mpg, that is a big hit. I definitely like the stance, I think you have sold me on a set of spacers. I have been thinking about adding a 3/4" to the front.

Did you have the tires on before the spacers? If so did you have any rubbing? I only rub on the passenger front, and it is only because some Yah-hoo pulled the liner out and didn't put it back in correctly so it sticks out on that side. I am thinking 3/4" will get me just enough to get away from the liner.

I'll take it on a decent road trip tomorrow for the diffs, so we'll see what highway mileage looks like now. Either way, it'll all change once I swap the gears anyway.

And I didn't run the tires before the spacers... I was waiting to get all the work done, then align it, and then run the new tires. I've heard that there isn't usually a rubbing issue but with your fender liner issue your rig may be different.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Picked up the diffs today, Bowser on here is an awesome guy to deal with!

We also found some snow over the pass to play in a bit. The Duratracs rock in the snow.

And the 4runner averaged about 20.5mpg for the trip, when it used to average 23ish for road trips. Not too horrible, but it definitely felt geared too high. Glad I have the 4.30s to swap in now!

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Different rear spacers are on the way... with a full tank the truck sits barely level, and adding any weight will cause it to sag. So these will add about 3/8" to the rear height. I'll probably adjust the rear bump stops and shock mounts to accommodate too.

I also have 4 snazzy new lower control arm bushings here to install this weekend. Let's see if I can do this without a press. Redneck wrenching time again.

 

[jynx]

I didn't know the ball joints were rebuildable.... J/K I know you mean lower control arms.

Nothing a little fire and a C-clamp, and a BFH won't take care of, maybe some baling wire and duct tape too. I love redneck 'n

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

I didn't know the ball joints were rebuildable.... J/K I know you mean lower control arms.

Nothing a little fire and a C-clamp, and a BFH won't take care of, maybe some baling wire and duct tape too. I love redneck 'n

Haha yeah, odd typo there.

I think I can pop them out with a bottle jack and press them in with a ball joint press. We'll see.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Not a lot to add yet... I'm still waiting on the spacers. Slight mess up on the shipping for them, but no big deal. School is busy now anyway. I want to do the spacers and the LCA bushings at the same time so I can properly align it right after.

I also torqued down the valve covers (6nm) to try and staunch the oil leak for now. I think I can hold off the valve cover gaskets for another month.

Oh, I filled up again today after a week of normal driving for me. I've been pu$$y footing it around town and still only averaging 17mpg when I used to get 19ish. I can't wait to swap the 4.30s in.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Another update...

I've noticed that the front end has been feeling more divey lately. Like a strut was on its way out. I was bouncing the truck around last night and confirmed what I thought... the right front strut is blown.

And then I remembered something stupid I did while working on the front end. I was using my electric impact to pull the top strut nut and ended up spinning the shaft. A lot. I think I killed the o-ring when I did that. FFFFFFFFUUUUUUUU

Gotta figure out what I want to do about this. I don't really want to drop the cash on an OME setup now. I might do something cheap for the meantime (KYB?) and see how that holds up.

Oh yeah- I finally got my rear spacers. They made a minor detour to New Mexico.

Edit again- I'm putting off the control arm bushings until May, school is kicking my ass this semester.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

I ordered a set of KYB Monomax shocks. I've had good luck with KYB stuff in the past and the price is right. $226 for a set thanks to Ebay.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Slow goings, been busy with housework and summer classes.

Did a hardware store Intake Silencer delete to see how well I like. There was a huge improvement on throttle response and a slight power gain, so eventually I'll get the newer style intake boots and fab up a high flow intake tube. The biggest gain is the badass intake noise it makes now.

And I've been trying to track down a noise in the front of the engine, it's an accessory belt grinding that appears after the engine is hot. I replaced the fan bracket which helped a bit, and then did a Power Steering fluid flush with new ATF. I haven't driven it since then so I hope that did the trick.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

And I'm still waiting for a full day to tear into the suspension to install the new spacers front and rear, the shocks, and the control arm bushings.