For Sale 96 LX450 black, lockers, lift, 35" - Yakima, WA

Location

United States

I believe I am the 3rd owner, bought it with 166,500 miles in April 2013 and the mileage is about 186,800. Most driving was for light off-roading, camping trips, regular road trips.and mountain biking trips. No rock crawling. Has front and rear locker, stock gears, plus CDL switch with pin-7 mod. The lockers have been exercised a couple times before, but now I tried them and the rear locker won’t engage although the front locker does.

$8,000 SOLD

I have since added from the previous owner:
ARB fridge wiring and plug in back, so just connect your ARB fridge
Defender roof rack, used only once
35” tires, Pro Comp, only about 14k miles on them
OME shocks and steering stabilizer (using already installed OME heavy 2.5” lift springs)
New brake pads (EBC Green Stuff 7000 in front, 6000 in rear) at 172k
Pfran full interior LED kit, with spare bulbs
Land Rover cup holder
Still have a box full of spares and items from previous owner

Maintenance items since 166,500 miles:
Fixed the egr code issue, no more code
Changed diff and t-case fluids at 170,000 miles with Mobil 1
Fixed the front passenger door cladding again with some industrial glue my friend who works at a auto body shop helped me with
Had another head gasket repair at 186,500, you can see my post in August 2015 for the issue Head Gasket Issue or Cracked Head
Flushed coolant and has new Toyota red as well
Replaced the Cylinder 2 fuel injector in Sept 2015
Replaced the Cylinder 3 fuel injector in April 2015

So I had this 80 shipped from Camas, WA to Claremont, CA in SoCal when I bought it. I just recently moved to Yakima, WA in Aug ‘15, and took care of some unexpected issues on the 80. I had driven 20k miles with no issues, then the above noted issues happened. It is all fixed and drives fine now. Put in only 50 miles since the last fix. My fiance and I are up here for her medical school attendance, getting married soon, wanna have kids, so its time to put aside the Land Cruiser hobby, yet again, and stick to some regular daily drivers. Plus keep it a two car family for the immediate future, there’s going to be lots of moving the next several years. When we resettle after med school, I will probably get back into Land Cruisers again.

Its a clean title in hand, but its still CA registered. Still no rust. The paint is obviously getting worse with some scratches, but still decent condition. It was in the SoCal sun a couple of years. Changed the oil every 7500 miles with Mobil 1. Greased the drive shafts a couple of times.

Please see below from the previous Mud owner (firetruck41) with the condition and features at 166,500 miles. He did not get a chance to post on Mud, but had his ad prepared. I just purchased it from him before he got the chance. I have all his records and e-file FZJ80 factory manuals that I will transfer to you through probably a link to my cloud service. First, the current pictures you can download (link removed)

FROM PREVIOUS OWNER:
“Modifications/significant maintenance

• OEM Head Gasket replaced at 155k miles, used all Toyota OEM parts/seals (from Cruiser Dan at American Toyota) as required, also replaced valve stem seals and had injectors ultrasonic cleaned/balanced, replaced fuel filter
• Coolant/radiator flush at same time as HG
• PHH (Pesky Heater Hose) changed with Samco silicone hose and Breeze Constant Torque clamps (purchased from 1fzfe PHH)
• tuned radiator fan clutch
• Cooling system working great (no history of overheating)
• Viper Remote Start/Alarm/Keyless entry (Link to my thread about the installation of the Viper Remote Start)
• Old Man Emu (OME) heavy lift, 850/863 springs, with Slee Blue Caster Correction bushings, alignment is great, handles very well, gives about 2.5” lift from stock
• tires are Cooper STT 285/75/16 (equivalent to 33” tires) w/5-10k miles left
• Powerstop slotted brake rotors x 4, w/EBC Green Stuff pads (use EBC Green Stuff 7000 in front, 6000 in rear)
• birfield (cv joint) grease/maintenance with new Koyo bearings (including trunion bearings), Amsoil Moly fortified grease
• New Slee stainless steel extended brake hoses (all but one line, still have it, just haven’t installed yet)
• Brake fluid/flush
• OEM washable air filter (and an extra one)
• fuse box in rear cargo passenger side compartment w/ switched 12v outlet
• wired for a fuse box and inverter under front seat (all wiring also fused at battery for safety)
• OEM JDM passenger dash grab bar
• OEM driver door pillar grab bar
• JVC double din HD radio w/CD (KW-HDR720), and included optional bluetooth module
• Door speakers upgraded to Polk Audio 6.5” in front doors, and 5.25” in rear doors, factory amp bypassed for much better sound
• Gamiviti lip mount cupholder
• heated mirrors with timer switch
• OEM Toyota Center Differential Switch with pin 7 mod (allows full control of center differential lock)
• Flashlight mount (driver accessible)
• Fire extinguisher mounted (driver accessible)
• Raingler cargo area safety net divider (heavy duty cargo net made for 80 series, place behind 1st row, or second row)
• 2nd gen HIR headlights for low and high beam (actual higher lumen output, with correct positioning to maintain correct light beam shape/pattern), these are not “blue”, or cheap HID, or “silver star” type, they are better Link to my HIR headlight mod thread, which has been viewed over 84,000 times, since I wrote it!
• Slee headlight wire harness upgrade
• LandTank Performance MAF Housing and upgraded Toyota MAF sensor
• Toyota Block heater added, w/receptacle wired to driver side of front bumper
• Trickle charger prewired to battery, AC plug at bumper
• New Walmart “MAXX” battery with 3 year warranty (just replaced the last one which lasted almost 7 years)
• LED interior dome light (from George TLC)

Things to note:

• Well maintained by an enthusiast
• These vehicles are prone to failure of the original Head Gasket, the new Toyota head gasket I used is of the updated design. If you are looking at 80 series Land Cruisers/LX450, realize that I have already taken care of an issue that is very likely to happen on any 80 series you buy that still has the original HG
• Drivers seat bottom has cracks and tears which started in the last year or two
• Better than OEM quality, leather seat covers are available from Metric TLC for a reasonable price approx $875 install not included (front and second row, arm rests, headrests)
• OEM console has some holes drilled through the drivers side to mount a handgun safe mounting base (seen in pics) when base is removed, holes will remain.
• While not pictured all headrests are included for all three rows of seating, one has a small section on a corner that is damaged
• The third row seats are included and are easily installed/removed with just one latch
• PO401 OBD code, it can be reset, but will return eventually, this is not any danger to the engine/vehicle, it is just an EGR code, for the emissions system, in emissions exempt areas, many people disable the EGR purposely. It can be fixed, but so far I have had no compelling reason the repair it. NO other OBD codes.
• I have/use a ScanGaugeII OBD gauge/scanner, mounted with velcro above the steering wheel, it is NOT included, but works great, and could maybe be negotiated as part of the vehicle sale
• Drivers visor is hangs down slightly, maybe one inch
• couple scratches near rear drivers side window and on hatch, have pictures, might be able to be buffed out, they are visible, but I can not feel them when running my hand over the paint
• A few dings and some chips on the front bumper
• Otherwise, pretty normal wear/tear on the exterior, very nice shape still, IMHO, receive many compliments on it

These are pretty incredible trucks, made to last, this LX will last many more hundreds of thousands of miles. It drives great, and has no mechanical issues, shifts as it is supposed to, cooling system works well, as does the HVAC, seats 7 (you can add an OEM seatbelt to seat 8). I would drive this across the country with no qualms. Oil consumption is common in these, but I have virtually no oil consumption, after replacing the valve stem seals during the Head Gasket replacement.

Being that this has lived its life in the Pacific Northwest, it doen’t have any rust, no salt used on the roads here, and weather is relatively mild. No cracks in the dash.

Previous Owner said he was in a minor accident where the front R flare and cladding were damaged, it was repaired. It does not appear there was any damage to the sheetmetal as the VIN stickers are still in place on the body panels (this means it is original to the vehicle) and there is no visible metal repair.

There are a few dents and scrapes/scratches on the front bumper.”

Let me know of any questions or other pictures you would like to see. Probably forgetting some things. I have a bunch of pics, but can take specific ones.

 

[hamishpotter]

any underbody pics?

GLWS

 

[jiggawu]

Yes, they are in the Dropbox link. I will post a few here in a little bit.

 

[jiggawu]

Here are a few undercarriage pics (more in dropbox link):

 

[WillieDrifter]

Clean Title? No Salvage or Branded title? How hard is it to register a CA rig in OR. Out of Eugene and may be interested in taking the drive to your location if VIN checks out on Carfax. Let me know.

 

[jiggawu]

It's a clean title. Should be easy to register a CA vehicle in Oregon as it had to pass the most strict of emission testing. I had to replace the egr valve and vacuum when I brought it to CA, otherwise it would not pass smog there. So I just would sign over the title to you and you bring it to OR DMV to get it registered, pay the fees and registration, they should give you a temporary title, new plates, and in a few weeks a new OR title should be in your mail. That was my experience for both CA and for moving to WA with my truck. I presume the OR experience would be similar. Usually the DMV site gives you easy pointers on how to register an out of state vehicle, cause I know WA's website made it real easy. I will PM you the VIN.

 

[TheAmerican]

Very nice. Sent you a msg

 

[jiggawu]

SOLD