95 4Runner difficulty shifting

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DannoBoston

10 Year 15 Year
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Jul 1, 2008
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I have a 95 4Runner, 174k miles. About 3 years ago, I had to replace the clutch. Since then, I've always had to push the clutch pedal ALL THE WAY DOWN to get the clutch to disengage. Even before I replaced the clutch, it was always "glitchy" and would grab funny. It's been steadily getting more finicky about how hard I push in the clutch such that it almost feels like it's not disengaging all the way. It can be difficult to get into first, and starting in reverse is next to impossible unless I first shift into another gear. And even then I'll grind into reverse.

The last month I've noticed that shifting to any gear takes a fair amount of force on the shift lever. It sticks then suddenly gives and shifts into gear.

Like I said, the clutch is relatively new, and shifting has always been a minor issue, but now it's becoming a major issue.

Any ideas of what I can check to get an easy fix or is my tranny going bad?
 
I would start by checking the freeplay of the pedal. There is supposed to be about 10mm of travel at the pedal before you start to feel pressure. There's a linkage way up under the dash that you adjust to get this.

When the clutch was replaced, did you (they) resurface the flywheel? And if so, are you sure they re-machined the "step" in the edge of the flywheel? This is very important.

Are you sure the release arm is properly seated on the pivot, and the throwout bearing is installed correctly?
 
Have you looked at the slave cylinder/changed the fluid/bled it correctly?

You might have a pressure issue in the line.

Just another thought.
 
I'd check the free play first as mentioned, then try bleeding the clutch, then..... Try pumping the clutch before shifting into 1st. If that makes it easier, then your clutch master cylinder is wearing out.

Good luck! :D Oh and welcome to Mud!!! :flipoff2:
 
Last edited:
somebody monkeyed with it. :mad: IH8 when people assume, "its like a chevrolet :hillbilly:"


In one of my most recent cases a PO though the valves were hydraulic and proceeded to adjust da valves with the motor running....:hhmm: I now have a rust proof entire front clip....:rolleyes:


:doh:


me say free play
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

a) The clutch replacement was done by me and my brother. He's a mechanic (15+ years) so I would assume he did it correctly.

b) I don't think it's air in the hydraulics, but I'm willing to at least try bleeding the lines. Pumping the clutch quickly has no effect so I'm skeptical if this will help.

c) It's always required full down to get the clutch to disengage which makes me think it could be something simple as adjusting the release arm, etc. I have the Chilton's book at home, and I'll look it up to see if it's something I can do myself without a garage.
 
Well, an update is in order. My brother lives 3000 miles away so we've been talking on the phone and sending each other phone pictures to move this diagnosis along.

The first thing I checked was the clutch pedal adjustments. Basically I've got it set so that I'm getting the most pressure possible on the push rod, no slack, but it still isn't enough to get the clutch plate to release completely.

I checked the hydraulic levels and they were fine. I then bled the lines via the slave cylinder about 10 times to remove the possibility of air in the lines. I got no improvement at all.

The last thing my bro wants me to check is the movement of the link arm that goes into the clutch itself. He says it should move about 10mm or 3/8 in. When I was bleeding the lines, I remember seeing it move and I'm guessing that it's probably moving the required distance, although I'll go check it again.

The few times I've driven it lately it's actually gotten worse, and shifting requires me to literally put my back into it. I've had to shut off the engine to get into 1st or Reverse.

He said the only thing we didn't replace was the flywheel. After all this, I have to wonder if there's something inside the clutch causing the problems since I've pretty much eliminated all of the possible weak links outside of the clutch. I'm planning on taking it to a dealership to get an estimate since I can't do that kind of major work myself. If it's going to be more than the cost of an airplane ticket, my brother is about to get a paid visit (by me) to Boston.
 
Try a new slave cylinder chep and will more than likely fix it.
 
Yeah, I am still thinking pressure issues BUT....

you mentioned that this happened after the clutch replacement. I don't think that is a coincidence and it is logical to assume that the pedal adjustments were fine before hand since it worked well before hand.

Are you sure he did the job right? Did he touch the hydraulics at all?
 
Clutch Pedal Frame

My 91 4x2 clutch did the same til it no longer worked. If you look under at the frame that holds the clutch pedal look for a crack. I rewelded mine but if you get another one from Toyota they did beef it up. Ummmm, did they have a lot of failures???? Goodluck on it.
 
I agree unless your brother put the wrong pressure plate in the tranny (its possible sometimes parts stores sell the wrong stuff) then its more than likely a hydraulic problem you can pick up slave cylinders for cheap and rebuild kits for them even cheaper (like 10 dollars) and you can probobly find a good master cylinder at a junk yard.

Also its not advisable to grab random stuff from different vehicles and bolt it on, but with my rig i pulled a master cylinder off of a newer truck that had a much longer throw in the piston with the same size bore and as a result it makes it much easier to depress the clutch. (Something to think about)
 
I am having the same problem. I removed the auto and installed the pedals, hydraulics and transmission from a donor 4runner.
The flywheel was resurfaced and clutch kit was from Marlin. I reused the original MC and slave cylinders and cant get enough movement to disengage the clutch. I see some movement, but the pedal is really soft and goes all the way to the floor. I have bleed through an entire bottle of brake fluid using both a vacuum and the pump/release methods. Not sure what to do other than replace all the hydraulic components. Not sure what the "step" is referred by KLF. I guess I'll start w/ the pedal freeplay. I basically drilled the hole in the firewall and connected all the parts. Hope that works, this conversion has taken me two months now and I want it to end. Also installed gear transfer case w/ 4.70. This clutch issue is all that remains.
 
wutduhphuk said:
My 91 4x2 clutch did the same til it no longer worked. If you look under at the frame that holds the clutch pedal look for a crack. I rewelded mine but if you get another one from Toyota they did beef it up. Ummmm, did they have a lot of failures???? Goodluck on it.
Click to expand...

Finally found it thanks to the help of another Mud member. The bracket was cracked and allowing too much movement with the pedal. I didn't think of checking this since I had just installed it as part of a transmission swap. Ordered another bracket from TAP Recycling.
 
Well, the bracket was definitely my problem. The replacement I received from TAP Recycling already had been strengthened and welded at the weak points. Put it in today, and clutch/transmission shifts fine.
 
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