'94 Truck, Lift ideas?

[Campfire]

Just got my son a 94 XCAB SR5 and it has 31's on it now. We want to do a slight lift, 2-3", but not anything crazy. I've searched and found everything from SAS to 8" total lifts. We plan on going up to 33's with 285/75-16's. It already had 4.88 gears in it so that should be fine.
I'm going to re-index the torsion bars, but what's the best setup for the rear?
Shackels?
add-a-leafs?
new springs?
I'm not really that excited about blocks, they suck.
Any thoughts and/or pictures would help.
Thanks in advance.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Blocks do suck. I'd go with a shackle lift (and I did to fit my 33's) I made my own 3 inches longer than stock netting about 1.5 inches of lift at the axle. Then I cranked the T-bars so it sits pretty level. Check out the FAQ thread, there's a link to fitting 33's on a 3rd gen truck like your boys.

I love this pic, so I'll shamelessly show it again.

The James Caird getting things done at last years 45 Run.

 

["N8"]

Depends on what your intentions for the vehicle are... If you plan on just takin it out on some class v roads nothing super hard yah the shackle lift is cheap easy and effective to get a small amount of extra hight. add-a-leafs are worthless if you ask me less you just need some extra carrying capacity, but they will screw the flexibility of your springs. If you want to do some serious offroading the only real option if you dont wanna do any cutting and welding is larger springs. they will be the only option that will increase your suspension travel of the three that you listed.

On the front suspension, drop brackets are worthless they do nothing accept raise your center of gravity, so rule those out. Ball joint spacers are a good option just to get a little extra clearance, but they wont help your travel at all. Then the other popular thing is a sas, which will drastically increase your suspension travel but requires some cutting and welding and more than about 5 brain cells. And way out on the crazy end wich is as stated prior farther than you want to go, is 4 and 3 link suspensions.

Sounds to me like you should get some ball joint spacers maybe some after market torsion bars, and a set of new springs and shackles for your rear.

 

[Devil's Slide Doug]

Here is the recipe i used. My 93 has factory 4.88's, rear locker, a 1" body lift, cranked stock t bars, low profile bump stops, sway bar disconnects, 2" downey rear springs, trimmed rocker panel/smashed down firewall seam and trimmed the rear of the front fender and front of the rear fender. This allows it to clear 33 by 12.5 tires on 8" rims with 3.75 backspacing with no rubbing. Now if you care about asthetics, I actually took care to bend the lip of the trimmed front fender back and extend the plastic liner with some black sheet plastic from tap plastic. A piece of plastic from a tacoma bumper nicely filled the gap between the body and the arb bumper. The plastic piece that covers the trimmed section of the rear fender can be molded in place with a heat gun to cover the trim job and fill the holes that would result if it were permanently removed. This setup has got me through the rubicon. Oh yeah, forget about the mudflaps. If you wheel it, I also recommend an idler arm brace, I also added a "rear control arm bracket brace/spreader. this is the most i will build the ifs. If i feel the need for larger tires then I will sas it.

 

[Campfire]

I love this pic, so I'll shamelessly show it again.

The James Caird getting things done at last years 45 Run.

Is that Deer Valley?


"N8" - - - - - - -


Great advice and thanks. This will be his daily driver and "reliable transportation" so nothing nuts. He has a '51 Willys we've done spring over, 5:38 stock gears, 35's, steering, etc. so he already has a crawler. He plans on flat towing the Willys with the Toy so I'm really trying to stay with 31 or 33's.


douglashuft - - - - - - -

Again, great ideas and recomendations I need to know about. He is already set his sights on an ARB and rear locker and his is white also. Great pictures to aim for with the stance. A simple 1" body lift will add to things with the Downey rear springs I'm looking at.
Thanks again guys.


Any more ideas out there?

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Yes it is deer valley, that's on the way back towards hwy 88 between the 2 river crossings.

 

[Hilux]

There's no doubt that SAing your rig will have the best results. I've got a IFS 4Runner that I will be building around its IFS. I don't need or want a S.A...YET.
(I've got other Trucks you know )

I picked up some (I believe) 1st gen Rancho or Downey upper A-arms pretty cheap. I'm planning on incorporating those with the max ball spacers available, a custom @ 3" diff drop that I plan on dropping level and not angled like 4Crawlers is. I plan on the axle tubes being protected by the lowest cross member/ diff mount. This will leave a small portion of the pumpkin unprotected but name a diff that isn't. I'm also thinking of not cranking ANY lift in or lowering what I added in spacer, and doing a 2" BL/ gas tank lift. (that 2ndGen has previously discussed)


I love a droopy suspension, I don't need to SA it for 33's-34's MAX, AND I DESPISE Body Lifts, but I rather do that than do custom cutting and beating the firewall back.

My goal is a VERY conservative "sleeper" High ground clearance, long travel chea...economy lift with no visible body alterations. I will either maximize this w/ a front only ARB (which I also H8) or an open diff.


Rear will either be a E-lock TRD or AussieLock since it's A.T and I don't left foot brake, so...


I figure @ 3"-3.5" lift.

Tubular upper control arms. I think I payed $50
Body lift used. I hope I can pick up for @ $50
BJ spacers IDK? $100?
Need some TBars, maybe not.
Custom fab for the diff drop ???
Rear springs or spacers ???
Shocks ???

 

[Family 40's]

Probably don't need torsion bars if you plan on ball joint spacers. However shocks are a must, if not they will just limit your travel. I tried a conservative approach (money wise) I put ball joint spacers, and AAL from toytec lifts, these AAL are actually really comfortable for they are the longer ones. Also don't put blocks on them. If you want a smoother ride a 2" spring in the rear would be best. But you will need shocks for the rear as well if you plan on extending or lifting it. If improving performance in your ifs for cheap is what you look for, low pro bump stop and get rid of your sway bar. Then decide after that if you want to do anymore lifting, then ball joint spacers, leave the torsion bars where they are and either AAL or new springs to match the front.

Considering the locker: I vote the Aussie, I love mine!

Cheers!