94 LC: Radiator Swap with pics and comments (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 1, 2010
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Location
Ashburn, VA
Please note this is for a 1994 LC. Pics and comments may not apply to other years. Though I suspect there is little to no difference.

I replaced my stock rad with a KOYO Radiator (part # c1917). The Koyo came with side brackets. It did not come with a radiator cap which perturb me. I paid $269.85 total and purchased it from Go-Part.Com.

First and for most, the radiator is held on the car via 4 bolts. Two bolts are the hidden bolts. 1 bolt on either side behind and slightly to the side of each headlight. See pics below.

The other 2 bolts are the vertical bolts. There is one on each side that attach to the L shaped bracket. See pics below.

That's it, just 4 bolts. I want to be clear about this as there are a few post about removing 2 bolts on either side of the bottom corner of the rad using a gear wrench because there is little room to use a socket. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO MESS WITH THESE BOLTS. These bolts simply bolt the bracket to the rad. If you really want to remove these bolts to remove the rad bracket then do it outside the car, which is much easier.

So what I did:
1 - Remove Battery and tray
2 - Remove headlight, side-marker, turn signal and front grill
3 - Remove 2 upper rad hoses (1 big & 1 small)
4 - Remove 1 lower rad hose
5 - Remove fan shroud via 2 top bolts
6 - Remove fan clutch (plastic fan still attached to fan clutch) via 4 bolts. Be careful not to strip these 4 bolts. These are tough to remove as the fan clutch will rotate.
7 - Lift Fan shroud and fan clutch out together. Please note on the DS lower fan shroud, there is a clip that supports a hose, undo this clip to free the fan shroud.
8 - Remove the two transmission hoses at the bottom of the rad. I'm confused why the LC even has these two hoses as we have a dedicated trans cooler.
9 - Now you will see on either side of the rad, a metal bracket shaped like an "L". Remove the vertical bolt on either side. You can loosen the 2 other bolts to give you more wiggle room when you remove the rad but you don't have to completely remove these 2 bolts on either side.
10 - And now the tough part removing the 2 hidden bolts which is now more exposed as you have removed the headlight. There are two horizontal bolts (1 on either side) about mid way up the rad. There is a nut on the grill side and on the engine side there is flat head. This flat head is a problem as you can't hold it when removing the nut. I broke both of these hidden bolts but I swore this would never happen to me again. See my mod below.

Old Rad and in very very bad shape:

rad-old.jpg


Lower corner either side... 2 bolts. You don't have to touch these but a few folks have instructions on how to remove them. If you really want to remove them then do it outside the car. As you can see they were rusted badly. I could never removed them even if I wanted to:

rad-2bottom-bolt.jpg


Hidden Bolts ... Grill-side:

hidden-bolt-grill-side.jpg


Same Hidden Bolt but engine side. Please note yours will not look like this. Yours will not have a head on it. I snapped mine off and swore this bolt will never give me issues again so I cut off the stock flat head and removed the bolt and installed my own bolt with a head:

hidden-bolt-engine-side.jpg


L-bracket with Vertical bolt: Remove the vertical bolt and you can loosen the 2 other bolts. Once the rad is outside the car. I removed this L shaped bracket and installed it on my replacement koyo rad.

l-bracket-vertical-bolt.jpg


Enjoy!
 
Last edited:
I just did the complete cooling system install and removed mine the exact same way. Just to confirm, there are no differences between your removal and my 95 model - so the 96-97 will be the same as well.

Funny...I thought the same thing about the radiator cap.
 
Exact same deal on the '96 I did last night.
 
No pics of it installed all shinny and what not ?
 
Just a quick thread resurrection, I made a mod to improve radiator change outs as they are getting more regular now from friends, relatives etc. The nut inside the grill that is a PITA to get to has been replaced by a nutsert. I drilled out the bolt that goes into the flanged arrangement that rubber mounts into the radiator and replaced it with a standard bolt. Makes it waaaaaay easier to change out a cooler now. :)

20160804_140308.jpg
20160804_140518.jpg
 
Have done over a dozen of these radiator swaps over the last several years. Pulled off ONLY the grill on the front. Pulled off the same stuff on engine side. Transmission cooler lines into bottom radiator tank also serve as transmission WARMER lines in colder conditions. Have always used OEM hardware with no big problems. Just gotta hit a bit creative with a 1/4" drive socket set. $ 10 at HF.
 
Transmission cooler lines into bottom radiator tank also serve as transmission WARMER lines in colder conditions.

I do this with the auto's here, many think about cooling but not warming. The trans here are piped straight through the rad and do not have the extra cooler. With customers going from warm Southern Spain to icy cold mountains for skiing just two hours away, the trans needs cooling and warming, so I fit external cooler first and then feed into the rad. TBH, I would rather not use the rad as a failure dumps the water into your trans but, the trans needs a heater. On the plus side, a pre rad cooler takes a lot of heat load off the main rad, and helps with engine cooling during arduous use.

regards

Dave
 
Well organized and overall a great thread-thanks. I have a 92 and seems identical. Was blowing through the tear down and thought I was ready to pull the lights off. Wrong. So inside I went, watched some boxing and it was mud to the rescue. Thanks to this I know exactly what needs to be done. Thanks for taking one for the team.
 

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