'94 FZJ80 Transmission Issues (1 Viewer)

[Norseman12]

Hello,

I have a new-to-me 1994 FZJ80 with 260,000 miles. As far as I know, it always had stock tires on it and was not wheeled nor abused. Since I purchased it, I flushed and replaced all the transmission fluid, and fiddled/tightened the kickdown cable. I also towed a 6x10 trailer from Virginia to Colorado, which I know wasn't ideal, but I didn't really have a choice. Anyway, I'm experiencing the following "issues:"

1. Seems to "slip" or vehicle speed doesn't respond immediately to low speed partial throttle inputs. This seemed to get slightly better after I "adjusted" the kickdown cable, but now I am noticing the "slip" again. In contrast, if I stomp on the gas, the truck generally seems to respond as I would expect. I tried to follow the FSM and various tutorials for the procedure, but I am in no way sure that it is adjusted correctly. The cable seemed way out of spec from the FSM, so I just tightened it until it seemed like there was minimal play but the cable still closed all the way without hesitation.
2. I hear some various hums or high pitched noises. There is a loud hum on cold start up for a while, but I think that is actually the PS pump. However, a similar but more subtle sound persists after the initial louder sound dies down. I think this quieter sound is related to the trans. The noise seems to manifest consistently when I'm coasting in gear at a moderate rate of speed, let's say 30mph or so. If I pop it in neutral, the sound goes away. If I put a load back on the engine, it seems to go away or at least I don't hear it anymore.
3. I also notice another high-pitched whine almost all the time when driving that doesn't seem to change regardless of load, gear, etc. Since it seems to be present all the time, I was leaning toward T-case on that one.
4. I also have an occasional hard upshift, typically when I let off the gas. Seems to shift okay when I don't let off the gas and just let it do it's thing.

I appreciate any insight, and hopefully this an adjustment issue rather than damage. I know the 94 trans is strong, but given the high mileage, deferred maintenance prior to my ownership, and the towing I did, I do have some concerns. The humming sounds seem similar to when the torque converter went out in my 2001 4Runner, which has me a bit worried.

If anyone has recommendations for a shop in the Denver area who could evaluate these issues, or if any forum members are interested in taking a look, I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[voodu3]

I would check the drive flanges on the front axle. If they haven’t been replaced they probably have some wear. As far as the noise when off throttle check the driveshafts. My guess is you need new u joints or possibly grease in the driveshaft. Unless you had the trailer full of lead towing a 6x10 trailer shouldn’t be a problem but it could have stressed the already worn out driveline parts.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Call these boys up they will get you sorted out!

Cruisers and Company

Auto and Vehicle · Westminster, Colorado

maps.apple.com

 

[Malleus]

The lower speeds are synonymous with higher torques, and this relates to 1st/2nd gear clutch wear. These are the clutches you should expect to wear first, in a good transmission.

Any increase in engine rpm without an immediate increase in vehicle speed, no matter how slight, is a sign of clutch slippage. As long as the vehicle speed increases with engine rpm, the clutches are doing their job, however, there should be a visible speed increase, especially at lower speeds. If there isn't, the clutches are slipping. Changing the fluid will help with this problem, but it will not solve it. The long term solution is to replace the clutches.

When you "flushed and replaced" the ATF, how did you do it? If you used the pump and drained the fluid through the cooler circuit, you have done the best you can do, without removing the transmission. This will make a noticeable differnece in operation, if the fludi hasn't been changed in a while, but it won't last. If you only drained the pan, you didn't remove and replace enough fluid to matter.

Current US dealer inventory lists the gasket kit, but no the overhaul kit, which contains the clutches. All the parts are still available, but you may have trouble getting them from US stocking warehouses.

Be aware that no transmission repair shop is going to use Toyota parts. You will get Chinese made crap that is sold through US distributors. There is no data on the longevity of these parts, especially the clutches.

 

[Malleus]

FWIW, I'm preparing to rebuild my 1994 A442F next month. Let me know if you need any specific answers.

 

[Fj80oregon]

@Cruisers and Co

 

[ToothDr]

Another recommendation for a reputable Denver shop

Toyota Land Cruisers – Upgrades & Repair | Japanese Auto Service, Wheat Ridge, Colorado

japaneseautosvc.com

 

[Norseman12]

I would check the drive flanges on the front axle. If they haven’t been replaced they probably have some wear. As far as the noise when off throttle check the driveshafts. My guess is you need new u joints or possibly grease in the driveshaft. Unless you had the trailer full of lead towing a 6x10 trailer shouldn’t be a problem but it could have stressed the already worn out driveline parts.

I definitely need to rebuild the axles. Unfortunately I don't have a garage and it's already cold and snowing up here, so I don't know when I'll be able to test into them.

 

[Norseman12]

The lower speeds are synonymous with higher torques, and this relates to 1st/2nd gear clutch wear. These are the clutches you should expect to wear first, in a good transmission.

Any increase in engine rpm without an immediate increase in vehicle speed, no matter how slight, is a sign of clutch slippage. As long as the vehicle speed increases with engine rpm, the clutches are doing their job, however, there should be a visible speed increase, especially at lower speeds. If there isn't, the clutches are slipping. Changing the fluid will help with this problem, but it will not solve it. The long term solution is to replace the clutches.

When you "flushed and replaced" the ATF, how did you do it? If you used the pump and drained the fluid through the cooler circuit, you have done the best you can do, without removing the transmission. This will make a noticeable differnece in operation, if the fludi hasn't been changed in a while, but it won't last. If you only drained the pan, you didn't remove and replace enough fluid to matter.

Current US dealer inventory lists the gasket kit, but no the overhaul kit, which contains the clutches. All the parts are still available, but you may have trouble getting them from US stocking warehouses.

Be aware that no transmission repair shop is going to use Toyota parts. You will get Chinese made crap that is sold through US distributors. There is no data on the longevity of these parts, especially the clutches.

I did the full flush and fill through the trans cooler line. The old fluid seemed ok, but I didnt drop the pan, so I don't know how the inside looked. Didn't seem to be fragments on the drain plug.

I've never had an auto trans apart - are clutches within the scope of a home mechanic?

 

[Norseman12]

FWIW, I'm preparing to rebuild my 1994 A442F next month. Let me know if you need any specific answers.

Where are you located? What kind of cost, time, and parts purchases are you looking at for that job?

 

[Norseman12]

Thanks for all the input. I'm going to contact Cruiser Co and Japanese Auto to see if I can get in for a diagnosis.

I may have a chance to buy a used A343 and transfer case in allegedly good condition. Would those work if my A442 ends up being damaged?

 

[ppc]

No, A442 is controlled by a separate transmission controller where the A343 is controlled by the vehicle ECM and is not compatible.

 

[Malleus]

Where are you located? What kind of cost, time, and parts purchases are you looking at for that job?

I'm in Charlotte, NC. The overhaul kit is no longer in Toyota's EPC so the clutches have to be purchased individually. The gasket kit has also been removed from the EPC, but I'm told it's still available, so I'm waiting on confirmation for that. Failing that, I'll have to put a "kit" together myself and order form that.

When I rebuilt the last A343F (which would be comparable for parts cost) a couple of months ago, the clutches were about $7-$10 each and steels were twice that, but that wasn't retail price. The gasket kit is $350, retail; I obviously don't know what my cost is going to be yet.

The gasket kit is the minimum required cost, along with a sleeve (90560-20008), which is required for the manual shift lever, but not included in the kit (for some reason), and 12 quarts of ATF (Summit Mobil 1 multi vehicle ATF @ $6.99/qt). The steels have to be assessed based on wear (thickness). This is usually all that's required, unless there has been some internal failure.

I would budget, for me, at least $800 in parts. Retail, which you're going to pay if you have someone do it for you, would be twice that.

 

[Malleus]

Thanks for all the input. I'm going to contact Cruiser Co and Japanese Auto to see if I can get in for a diagnosis.

I may have a chance to buy a used A343 and transfer case in allegedly good condition. Would those work if my A442 ends up being damaged?

Only if you get the engine to go with it. Then you're into the repair for an engine, transmission, ECU and two harnesses. But, you get rid of the PAIR, so that's a bonus. But, then you're stuck with a used transmission that will have to be overhauled at some point, and engine that will need a valve job, at some point. It's not a money saver, for most people.

If I could do all that for $2k or less, I'd do it, but that's just me.

EDIT: I just realized that's three buts in only reply. Don't do it.

 

[Malleus]

I did the full flush and fill through the trans cooler line. The old fluid seemed ok, but I didnt drop the pan, so I don't know how the inside looked. Didn't seem to be fragments on the drain plug.

I've never had an auto trans apart - are clutches within the scope of a home mechanic?

Yes, but you need special tools to do the job. You can make them from hardware store threaded rod and flat bar, but you do need:
1) the unit repair manual (this is a must),
2) a two jaw puller,
3) 8" snap ring pliers,
4) something to measure accurately with (6" dial calipers are ideal), and
5) something to support the case on while you tear it down and reassemble it; a plastic milk crate will work.

Bear in mind, this is all bare minimum, but it can be done. It's far easier to rebuild a transmission that an engine. No machine shop is required.

 

[Norseman12]

Yes, but you need special tools to do the job. You can make them from hardware store threaded rod and flat bar, but you do need:
1) the unit repair manual (this is a must),
2) a two jaw puller,
3) 8" snap ring pliers,
4) something to measure accurately with (6" dial calipers are ideal), and
5) something to support the case on while you tear it down and reassemble it; a plastic milk crate will work.

Bear in mind, this is all bare minimum, but it can be done. It's far easier to rebuild a transmission that an engine. No machine shop is required.

Thanks for the information. I would be wiling to give it a shot if I had garage space, which currently I don't, and a spare daily, which I won't have until the end of December when my 4Runner is supposed to be here or spring motorcycle weather. I have a lot of maintenance and upgrades to do if/when I can get a place with shop space - finish baselining, axle rebuild, engine seals, lift, bumpers, seat leathers and carpet, replace windows, install remote start, build drawers, onboard air, etc., etc., etc., Hopefully Cruisers and Co can check it out and at least let me know if I need major work on the trans.