hoser
SILVER Star
Would love to but I've done my 90k already. Just need to do the hoses. Not too excited about it either. Must be a bunch of them.
90k Service - Confirm What I'm Doing
- Thread starter harryhoudini
- Start date
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I found out the importance of doing the hoses the hard way in my ES300. My engine would drive like crazy and I could not figure out what was wrong. Tried a bunch of things.... Turned out it was a crack in one of the hoses.......
Are you planning to replace other hoses in addition to the radiator and heater hoses? I.e.: vaccum lines, etc.?
hoser
SILVER Star
I was just going to do the radiator and heater hoses for now; these parts could disable the vehicle if ruptured. I think I'll save the vacuum hoses for when I do the starter contacts... as the intake manifold will be off. Oh wait, can I access all the heater hoses without removing the intake manifold?
When I installed the HH I didn't have any trouble accessing the heater hoses...I don't think removal of the intake manifold would help that much...but if you're doing the starter anyway
. How many miles do you have now?
hoser
SILVER Star
I'm at 105k. Just looked at my records and Lexus replaced the starter at 77k. I guess I probably won't be doing the starter contacts for some time. <knock on wood>
So for now:
Radiator hoses
Heater hoses
Transmission cooler hoses
So for now:
Radiator hoses
Heater hoses
Transmission cooler hoses
The ear-piercing shrill of my starter!!!!
I'm glad that I saw this thread... In the last two days my starter has started shrieking everytime I start the 100 up. I'm at about 81.5K mileage wise. I'm guessing that its probably time to just go all in and do the 90K. I can't do it myself, any estimates as to what this will cost me at the stealership so I know they aren't ripping me off. TIA.
I'm glad that I saw this thread... In the last two days my starter has started shrieking everytime I start the 100 up. I'm at about 81.5K mileage wise. I'm guessing that its probably time to just go all in and do the 90K. I can't do it myself, any estimates as to what this will cost me at the stealership so I know they aren't ripping me off. TIA.
The shrieking is not a normal starter contact problem.
Normally around $600 labor, $250-300 new starter. The starter is under the intake manifold and takes a while to get at.
The 90k service doesn't have a lot of common labor with the starter replacement so there isn't a lot of savings to be had. Look for a dealer coupon for a $325 Tbelt change and go from there. Lots of threads about the 90k and costs.
Is that "shrieking" when you turn the key, or after the engine fires and you let the key go?
If it is after, then usually some lubrication is required so the starter drive gear can return and not stay engaged.
EDIT
This can be caused by a STICKY solenoid or a STICKY drive gear spline
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On a small plane (this IS relevant, I promise) if the starter stays engaged, the ammeter will peg all the way at a positive charge (because the engaged starter is acting as an alternator). Does the same thing happen on a car when the starter stays engaged?
I'm thinking it may not, since the plane has an ammeter (current) whereas the car (or LC) has a voltmeter, which will probably just show the usual 14-15 V and give no indication of the increased current thru the line.
Anybody know?
If they are speaking, they are ripping you off.
Do a search for "90k cost." I just resurrected one of these threads about a month ago. Mine (thru a good independent who loves LC's) was about 1200 labor (including 220 for a stuck e-brake) and 425 parts (thru CDAN, look no further). This included some other stuff not on the list, thus the higher cost.
Tell your wife it will run about $2K, and she'll be happy when you come in well under budget.
Jim_Chow
V8_Fan
If the starter is turning, isn't the serp belt turning? If so, that would turn the alternator and generate electricity. FWIW, it takes many hours of continuous driving to fully charge most car batteries.
Doctor Jay - Interesting question.
I've always wanted an ammeter in my vehicles because it seems they provide a lot of useful info that you can't get out of a voltmeter.
I've always wanted an ammeter in my vehicles because it seems they provide a lot of useful info that you can't get out of a voltmeter.
We tend to call them driveshafts here in the US. The bolts in question attach them to the transfer and differentials. 78ft/lbs rear 59ft/lbs front.
Doooohhhh!!!!! Of course. I don't know what the heck I was thinking.
Thanks NMuzj100.
By "propeller shaft bolt", the maintenance desription really means the 4 bolts (plural) that hold the front end of the drive shaft to the flange that goes into the TCase, and the 4 bolts that hold the rear of the drive shaft (actually the slip shaft) to the rear diff flange.
I have never cracked these bolts before. None have ever loosened up on me.
Do you guys loosen the bolts up first and then retourque them?
Thanks NMuzj100.
By "propeller shaft bolt", the maintenance desription really means the 4 bolts (plural) that hold the front end of the drive shaft to the flange that goes into the TCase, and the 4 bolts that hold the rear of the drive shaft (actually the slip shaft) to the rear diff flange.
I have never cracked these bolts before. None have ever loosened up on me.
Do you guys loosen the bolts up first and then retourque them?
