90k Service - Confirm What I'm Doing

[harryhoudini]

So I have a '98 with 92k miles on it. I am almost positive TB hasn't been done. I figure if I am going to keep it I should do some maintenance. So here is what I have planned, please any comments or thoughts would be nice.

1. Oil Change (Mobil 1 & Filter)
2. Timing Belt
3. Accssory Belt
4. Tensioner
5. Crank seal
6. Cam seal
7. Iidler pulley
8. Thermostat
9. Fuel Filter
10. Water Pump
11. Tranny Fluid Exchange
12. Coolant Flush (with SLLC Coolant)
13. Transfer Case w/ Synth
14. Front & Rear Diff w/ Synth

15. P/S Fluid (I have some weird thing where at slow speeds, tight turns feels like the P/S goes out, figure this might be a first step)

16. Lubricate propeller shaft (4WD)
17. Lubricate wheel bearings and drive shaft bearings
18. Re-torque propeller shaft bolt

Wow.. what a list. If I am missing anything please let me know, otherwise I'm gonna have cruiserdan order me up some parts.

Did brakes about a year ago, so that's good. Need to do tires soon.

 

[100 TD]

It is a bit more work but the starter contacts and plunger are one to think about while you have a bit of it pulled down, lots on this board start to have starter issues around 90000, I would also check the starter brushes if you take it out.
Then of course you can clean the throttle body while you are doing the starter, it gives a few problems here occasionally.
Check manifolds for leaks.
Drop the pan on the tranny and check for metal/aluminium/clutch material and clean remove and wash the screen and pan and then do the fluid exchange.
I haven't seen anyone have alternator issues that I can remember, but if you are in the mood there is always the brushes in the alternator to check.
My 0.02

 

[harryhoudini]

TY!

 

[100 TD]

Hopefully some others will chime in here, I have a diesel and as I said, people on this board have the problems mentioned, NOT ME!!

 

[DoctorJay]

I'd add spark plugs, PCV valve and fuel cap. Cruiser Dan carries the Denso sk20r11, which is OEM, at a great price.

Sounds pretty complete otherwise.

 

[harryhoudini]

Fuel cap?

 

[SWUtah]

Fuel cap?

There is a rubber seal that can wear and might need to be replaced. Rad. cap also should be pressure tested and might need to be replaced.

 

[DoctorJay]

Fuel cap?

As it turns out, the o-ring that wears out is actually MORE expensive than the complete fuel cap.

 

[SWUtah]

As it turns out, the o-ring that wears out is actually MORE expensive than the complete fuel cap.

On my old FZJ80 I also just replaced the fuel cap. I think I'm OK on the 2004

 

[harryhoudini]

Thanks

 

[NMuzj100]

As long as you hear a hiss evrytime you open the gas cap I think you're good. But it is something I would look at and listen for.

 

[whodkne]

That's just my wallet getting scared of the cost of gas.

 

[LEXUSBEN]

Fuel cap?

Some of the factory maintenance menus say to replace the fuel cap o-ring. Rare failure, and if it does the Check engine light will come on setting evap codes (p0440, p0441, or p0446) sometimes all 3 depending what year.

That is one of those things you can replace after it fails because it is not going to hurt anything or leave you stranded. And you may never replace it. I'm at 162,xxx and never done it.

 

[SWUtah]

Some of the factory maintenance menus say to replace the fuel cap o-ring. Rare failure, and if it does the Check engine light will come on setting evap codes (p0440, p0441, or p0446) sometimes all 3 depending what year.

That is one of those things you can replace after it fails because it is not going to hurt anything or leave you stranded. And you may never replace it. I'm at 162,xxx and never done it.

You are exactly right. What is your take on replacing the front/rear diff fluid and transfer case fluid even though the book only states to change it if you tow??

 

[LEXUSBEN]

You are exactly right. What is your take on replacing the front/rear diff fluid and transfer case fluid even though the book only states to change it if you tow??

Every 15K with dino, or 30k with synthetic. I wouldn't go much more than that, I've seen some very dirty fluid at 30, with gobs of crap on the drain plug magnet. Cheap insurance on that stuff. Temp extremes (hot/cold) and humidity kill the diff fluids. And its not that they lose the ability to lubricate but they become contaminated. If you could find a way to keep them clean they would last a long time.

 

[SWUtah]

Every 15K with dino, or 30k with synthetic. I wouldn't go much more than that, I've seen some very dirty fluid at 30, with gobs of crap on the drain plug magnet. Cheap insurance on that stuff. Temp extremes (hot/cold) and humidity kill the diff fluids. And its not that they lose the ability to lubricate but they become contaminated. If you could find a way to keep them clean they would last a long time.

Thanks

 

[9toys]

In Texas, The State Inspection Requires A Fuel Cap Pressure Check. Mine Failed But The Tech Said Just To Turn The O-ring Over And She Tried It Again And It Passed.

 

[Jim_Chow]

Clean around the flap of the throttle body. This is often overlooked and not spec'd in the manual, but if the sticky carbon builds up enough, the motor won't be able to move the flap like it should and throw a code. You take it to the dealer and they tell ya you need a new TB for $1500!

 

[hoser]

At 90k, it would probably be a good time to change all the radiator/heater hoses. That said, I'd better do mine.

 

[spressomon]

At 90k, it would probably be a good time to change all the radiator/heater hoses. That said, I'd better do mine.

Hey...you want to come up and have a 90k party?


I need to tackle this within the next few weekends .