90 degree oil filter adapter
- Thread starter terrx
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Semi-Hijack
Scott
Did your driving habits change, or did you do something to reduce your fuel dilution?
Scott
Did your driving habits change, or did you do something to reduce your fuel dilution?
So which way did you end up facing the adapter? Filter bottom up or down?
- Thread starter
- #24
tarbe,
Dilution probably was caused by city driving - short trips ~3 miles back and forth to work.
Since the first sample I started running it on the freeway every week or two. That seems to have helped with the dilution.
-Scott
Dilution probably was caused by city driving - short trips ~3 miles back and forth to work.
Since the first sample I started running it on the freeway every week or two. That seems to have helped with the dilution.
-Scott
Has anyone else installed this vertical oil filter adapter? I am a constant tinkerer. I am looking to add something to my list. Terrx seems to have had no issues. Just looking for other input or opinions.
3fj40 said:
The desciption says: Nipple Thread Size: 3/4-16 in.
What does that mean? Will the OEM filter mount to it?
Pskhaat
Tourer
Ummm, dunno. I do know that said FL-1A is the same thread size as our beloved Toy filters. Maybe it's the other way around: maybe all threads are SAE even foreign markets, like wheel diameters.
The Toyota oil filter pattern is the most common oil filter pattern, the equivalent FL1-A mentioned above also in Fram-ese "PH8A" is the same, at one time I had a Nissan, 2 Dodges , and a Ford in my driveway that all took this same filter, I worked at a parts store during college, we sold PH8A's probably 5 to 1 to any other size because so many different vehicles take it.
3/4-16 is the thread of the center post or nipple, ¾ inch diameter, 16 threads per inch. AKA “¾ national fine thread” the other measures of a filter are the diameter of the gasket, presence of and relief pressure of the filter bypass valve,
In short yes the adapter will take OEM filters.
3/4-16 is the thread of the center post or nipple, ¾ inch diameter, 16 threads per inch. AKA “¾ national fine thread” the other measures of a filter are the diameter of the gasket, presence of and relief pressure of the filter bypass valve,
In short yes the adapter will take OEM filters.
Slomo
It's Complicated
I am very interested in this mod but I guess I want the guinea pig to do ok first.
I wonder is there a way to figure the area of the four holes in the bolt and the area of the factory hole and determine if there is a probable decrease in the flow. I failed math. If the areas are similar would the change in direction of flow and being forced through four smaller holes instead of one big one make an appreciable difference?
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slomo said:I am very interested in this mod but I guess I want the guinea pig to do ok first.
I wonder is there a way to figure the area of the four holes in the bolt and the area of the factory hole and determine if there is a probable decrease in the flow. I failed math. If the areas are similar would the change in direction of flow and being forced through four smaller holes instead of one big one make an appreciable difference?
PI x r x r
where
PI is 3.1415
r= the radius of the hole squared
gets you the area of any circle, the truns and bends do make a diffrence but the area of the holes is the biggest restriction to flow.
I was trying to get info on the diameter of the holes earlier,
But as has been proved by other the 1FZ does not last long with a reduction of oil flow, the oil analysis is actually a decent indicator,
landtank said:
Punched a hole in my NAPA large last time I changed the oil and it made more of a mess because there were now two holes for the oil to drain out. Never again.
RavenTai said:
A question:
-- If the oil drains back after sitting, how come on the one or two ocassions I have changed my oil after letting the truck sit all night, the filter has still been full?
A comment:
--A long-time Toyota mechanic for which I have very high regard told me that the reason LCs have filters mounted upside down (or close to it in the case of the 1FZ-FE) was so that at start up, the full filter would discharge its contents down into the engine, lessening the amount of time the lower end is without oil and making it pressure up quicker. I don't recall the FSM having a flow diagram so I am not sure where that oil goes when it leaves the filter, but I am assuming it is routed directly onto the main bearings.(?)
Thoughts/opinions?
elmariachi said:
was it completely full or half full? if the ABDV works the max that can drain out is a little more than half,
that makes no sense, there is nothing in a filter to expell oil just by startup, 2 ways for oil to come out of a filter are by gravity (certainly not enough to keep a crank fed and happy), here it needs a air inlet, and the second is by pumnping oil through it,
the FSM does not have a schematic of the oil routing but the 96 LX450 new car features manual does,
the oil leaves the filter and goes to the oil cooler, then to a main oil galley that directs oit to all lubricated parts of the engine.
There is also a Mopar 90* filter kit that looks like it raises the filter substantially higher that the Ford kit.
This should allow clearance for the big 15600-41010 toy filters. AFAIK... The old chryslers use the same 51515 filters that just about everyone else used so this should work with LC filters.
Check it out at
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/mopar_performance_oiling.htm
Only downfall is the $125 price tag. But it looks like a better designed unit from the standpoint of oil flow and design than the FMS piece.
Anyone with $125 burning a hole in their pocket???
This should allow clearance for the big 15600-41010 toy filters. AFAIK... The old chryslers use the same 51515 filters that just about everyone else used so this should work with LC filters.
Check it out at
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/mopar_performance_oiling.htm
Only downfall is the $125 price tag. But it looks like a better designed unit from the standpoint of oil flow and design than the FMS piece.
Anyone with $125 burning a hole in their pocket???
I am not as much for that one,
first unliek the first adapter it looks like the nipple has to come out of the block, I have no idea what thread was used in the block side of the nipple and weather this will match a mopar thread, the other is that the mound bolt is male instead of female, that reduces the oil port diameter where the oil makes that turn and possbily down the whole shank. ,
first unliek the first adapter it looks like the nipple has to come out of the block, I have no idea what thread was used in the block side of the nipple and weather this will match a mopar thread, the other is that the mound bolt is male instead of female, that reduces the oil port diameter where the oil makes that turn and possbily down the whole shank. ,
RavenTai said:
I hear you. Just for fun I decided to experiment with this a little this evening:
I removed the drain plug and let the engine sit and drain for about an hour. Then I got in it with the drain plug off and pan empty, cranked it over and just as it tried to start I killed it. I hopped out and looked underneath, and out came a bit more more oil. I then loosened the filter with my normal towel beneath it and less than a thimble full came out, as opposed to a full filter load as I normally get on the towel. So be it gravity or whatever, the filter puked its contents as soon as I cranked it.
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Air pumped in by the oil pump expelled the oil,
Carefully watch your oil pressure when you start again, some motors can loose prime on the pump, I am not sure if the 1FZ is one of those.
I am trying to think of a better demonstrative experiment but cant come up with one right now.
Carefully watch your oil pressure when you start again, some motors can loose prime on the pump, I am not sure if the 1FZ is one of those.
I am trying to think of a better demonstrative experiment but cant come up with one right now.
RavenTai said:
So in looking at your picture above, the oil forced out of the filter by air upon cranking will certainly wind up on the nozzles and resultingly the pistons before any other oil in the system. So the prior contention that the filter is designed to pre-oil the system upon start up could be viable.
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Here is a curve ball:
Common practice is to drain a warm to hot motor because "the oil flows better". In addition it is asserted that "the bad bits are in suspension". I usually follow this practice and the filter barfs some oil.
Think about this:
Hot motor shuts off, oil drains back into pan taking with it all the suspened bits. Motor sits overnight. Top end is completely "dry" and just about everyhting that can and will drain is in the pan. Remove plug and the pan drains. The top end is already drained so that job is done. When the filter is removed from a "cold" 1FZ very little oil leaks out as opposed to the nice barf from a hot motor.
Common practice is to drain a warm to hot motor because "the oil flows better". In addition it is asserted that "the bad bits are in suspension". I usually follow this practice and the filter barfs some oil.
Think about this:
Hot motor shuts off, oil drains back into pan taking with it all the suspened bits. Motor sits overnight. Top end is completely "dry" and just about everyhting that can and will drain is in the pan. Remove plug and the pan drains. The top end is already drained so that job is done. When the filter is removed from a "cold" 1FZ very little oil leaks out as opposed to the nice barf from a hot motor.
If I use a small Toyota filter, it has generally been very full, even when I change it cold. A very good friend of mine who used to be with Reher Morrison (racing engines) swears that the reason Toyota filters are upside down is to splash the critical lower end of the engine with oil on cold start (provided you use a filter with a valve.) He also contends that a cold change like you are discussing is a better way to go. I think your argument is as valid as changing it hot.
