Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (11 Viewers)

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Looks great! I ended up modifying the stock alternator/power steering bracket slightly so it would clear the steering box. It seems to work just fine as I had the vehicle running this past few days with no major issues. I did use a remote res power steering pump to help clear that power steering box in addition to the modified bracket. Now I'm working on my intake plumbing..... as you can see my stock 94 land cruiser intake lid is different than yours.... it won't work nearly as nice as the one you have (which I believe is on the 96 and 97 years?? ). I also went with a drive by wire setup and used my stock throttle cable and stock accelerator pedal... all which has seemed to work fine. I installed a 4L80e trans which I bought from my mechanic friend. Unfortunately I found out the hard way that the trans forward clutches were shot as I only had Reverse working after install!! UGH!! I have a trans shop rebuilding it as we speak and look forward to installing it and driving the truck for the first time next week!!

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yes i used air box cover from 1995 land cruiser
 
Does anyone have any experience with keeping the VATS ON? My swap is pretty much dialed in with everything set and running strong however I just heard that in order to get past the ref I need to have The VATS kept on with no change to the tune. If anyone can shoot me in the direction of how to keep the vats on it would be a big help. The amount of extra bs I have added to get this thing by the ref is crazy and this (knock on wood) is the last hurdle
 
Does anyone have any experience with keeping the VATS ON? My swap is pretty much dialed in with everything set and running strong however I just heard that in order to get past the ref I need to have The VATS kept on with no change to the tune. If anyone can shoot me in the direction of how to keep the vats on it would be a big help. The amount of extra bs I have added to get this thing by the ref is crazy and this (knock on wood) is the last hurdle
Several companies have modules that mimic the vats signal. Google vats module.
 
My swap is pretty much dialed in with everything set and running strong however I just heard that in order to get past the ref I need to have The VATS kept on with no change to the tune.
Out of curiosity, why would the ref require the VATS to be on? Its sole purpose is to disable the vehicle from thieves. Fairly certain it has nothing to do with emissions, other than being tied to the fuel pump cut off? Am I missing something here?
 
Out of curiosity, why would the ref require the VATS to be on? Its sole purpose is to disable the vehicle from thieves. Fairly certain it has nothing to do with emissions, other than being tied to the fuel pump cut off? Am I missing something here?
Because in CA we aren't allowed to alter the computer program. It has to be a stock tune which means VATS.
 
Ok so on tge vats... I was tge shop forman years ago at a high end car audio shop I've installed many like hundreds of remote start on vehicles we would use a box that woyld trick the car to think the key was in the ignition via connecting the box to the wires that are in the ignition switch for the anti theft system some of these required an extra key inside the box with the teeth ground off just incase a thief found it they couldn't start the car with it. Basically your gonna need alot more components to make this work and some pf this probably goes through the body control module. I'm sure it can be figured out but its gonna be some tech savvy s***. I will recommend looking to see how it all works so you can start to understand what your in for. Maybe ls tech forum may have some info. Good luck
Tommy
 
Ok so on tge vats... I was tge shop forman years ago at a high end car audio shop I've installed many like hundreds of remote start on vehicles we would use a box that woyld trick the car to think the key was in the ignition via connecting the box to the wires that are in the ignition switch for the anti theft system some of these required an extra key inside the box with the teeth ground off just incase a thief found it they couldn't start the car with it. Basically your gonna need alot more components to make this work and some pf this probably goes through the body control module. I'm sure it can be figured out but its gonna be some tech savvy s***. I will recommend looking to see how it all works so you can start to understand what your in for. Maybe ls tech forum may have some info. Good luck
Tommy
Everything I've read in the past said that i'd need a lock cylinder with key from the truck and a body control module.. I was hoping there would be an easier way to get around having to keep all that stuff in the glove box. Once I figure out a solution I'll be sure to post it here as it seems California is really upping the ante on swapping in a cleaner engine. If anyone has done this feel free to chime in!
 
Everything I've read in the past said that i'd need a lock cylinder with key from the truck and a body control module.. I was hoping there would be an easier way to get around having to keep all that stuff in the glove box. Once I figure out a solution I'll be sure to post it here as it seems California is really upping the ante on swapping in a cleaner engine. If anyone has done this feel free to chime in!
Im curious where this would go if you talked to a lawyer in regards to the legal terms the state has compared to what the referee says. Such strict requirements seems like harassment to me. You are installing a engine that should be cleaner, better fuel economy, more powerful, and modern.
 
Im curious where this would go if you talked to a lawyer in regards to the legal terms the state has compared to what the referee says. Such strict requirements seems like harassment to me. You are installing a engine that should be cleaner, better fuel economy, more powerful, and modern.
Wait, did you just apply logic to state legislation? :flush:
 
Does anyone have any experience with keeping the VATS ON? My swap is pretty much dialed in with everything set and running strong however I just heard that in order to get past the ref I need to have The VATS kept on with no change to the tune. If anyone can shoot me in the direction of how to keep the vats on it would be a big help. The amount of extra bs I have added to get this thing by the ref is crazy and this (knock on wood) is the last hurdle
I would start a new thread asking the forum tgis question in the 80 series section and 60 section might get better results than on this thread see what you can find out then post back on this thread to update what the conclusion is.
Tommy
 
Ive decided to get rid of the clutch fan. Its just not working out. I wanted to stick with the clutch fan but it doesn't pull enough air at idle. It also stays locked up at the wrong times. I will be doing 70mph on the freeway and the clutch is locked up solid depending on its mood. It sucks a ton of power when this happens. It feels like Im pulling a trailer. So Im looking up what fans to use and a new shroud. Im also going to have the LS ecu control the AC clutch so it shuts off the clutch at high rpms. I don't think its good for a compressor to spin real fast.
 
Ive decided to get rid of the clutch fan. Its just not working out. I wanted to stick with the clutch fan but it doesn't pull enough air at idle. It also stays locked up at the wrong times. I will be doing 70mph on the freeway and the clutch is locked up solid depending on its mood. It sucks a ton of power when this happens. It feels like Im pulling a trailer. So Im looking up what fans to use and a new shroud. Im also going to have the LS ecu control the AC clutch so it shuts off the clutch at high rpms. I don't think its good for a compressor to spin real fast.
i've been really happy w/ my dual speed Lincoln Continental fans...
 
Volvo 2 speed fan.
 
I guess I’ve been lucky. It did just occur to me I used the fan setup the Express vans use though. (Bigger fan and more blades)
 
I guess I’ve been lucky. It did just occur to me I used the fan setup the Express vans use though. (Bigger fan and more blades)
I tried the express fan. It gets hot in drive with the ac on and not moving. Like when I'm in a drive through or real heavy traffic. All other times it stays cool. The other issue is the fan clutch. I just can't get one that works well. I've tried like 5 different clutches. I should have kept the original clutch that was in the truck when I got it. I replaced it just for pm and tossed it not knowing how finicky gm clutches are.
 

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