89 yota pickup front shaft

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G

glshubert

10 Year 15 Year
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Mar 30, 2009
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I have an 89 base yota pickup. It has the 3-0 V6, manual trans. I started hearing a squealing U joint the other night after a lengthy 4wd trip in snow. I just figured. No big deal I will have to change a U joint. WRONG!!

I have had blazers and such in the past and when they go out you spend a few bucks beat one out beat a new one in and go on.

Apparently the little japanese guy that engineered the yota thought it necessary to cost you an arm and a leg to replace worn parts in a front shaft!

What in the world is the deal on the CV joint in the double cardan? I pulled out my manual and it says DO NOT DISASSEMBLE FRONT SHAFT! I live in southern KY and finding someone to rebuild something like that will be like finding a brain surgeon at a Lady GAGA concert.

Called the only place in the area that does them and he says he "toyotas are getting hard to repair" said he USED to get parts out of CA but the place had left him.

Sooo.....here I set with my front shaft out and the only thing I am seeing is $398 or so at places like O'Rielleys. What do I do to cut corners here?

I already have $5K in a $2600 truck. Parts are outrageous to say the very least. Used parts are non existant around here. I have been looking for a tailgate for 2 years.

Anyone have a suggestion? I am mechanically inclined but have never had the pleasure of working on a CV joint nor do I want to. I just have the truck to hunt out of, put the boat in from the bank during the winter, and not be homebound during snow. I don't use the truck to rock climb, mudd, etc. so I don't need an upgrade as it only gets put in 4wd occasionally.

Where would be the cheapest yet dependable place to get one of these over priced over engineered beauties?

Thak you in advance!

greg




:mad::mad::cool::cool::mad::mad:
 
Not interested in a used one. Id be rite back where I started. Was looking for who had the best prices on new or remaned ones. Thanks tho. SURELY someone sells then less than $400....?
 
glshubert said:
Not interested in a used one. Id be rite back where I started. Was looking for who had the best prices on new or remaned ones. Thanks tho. SURELY someone sells then less than $400....?
Click to expand...

toyota front shafts/cvs rarely fail. They work for tons of years.

The ifs v6 front shaft in your truck is worth less to guys building modded 4X4s.

I would just get a used shaft like mentioned. CraigsList has them for $40=80 ALL THE TIME.


But if you are helll bent on a NEW one then get yer bendover pants on and pucker up.
 
I've never seen an IFS front driveshaft wear out because they don't really have to move around any due to the design of an IFS system.
 
after taking it to the shop I think it is just the front u joint. Not the CV end. But

The shaft has been worked on. The cv and the u joint arent in perfect alignment as they should be. Looks as it has been rewelded in front of the slip joint and behind the cv. They say should b in a straight line. If so it may be all screwed. When u look at it the u and the cv are 5 or more degrees from straight. That would make factory balance wrong. WHAT U THINK?
 
I can't say. I'm running a 27 year old, second-hand front DS in The Mule, and no so much as a squawk. my rear U-joints pop pulling out from a stop, telling me they're worn, but that's it.

Shoot, I have never once heard of anybody having to rebuild a Toyota Cardan Joint - U-joints come and go, but I know 40+ year-old 40's that still run their original DS - Are you sure your pinion bearings are fine? I'd think they'd fail long before anything else.
 
I did mention the used one for all the same reasons listed above.......never see a cardon joint fail

Never seen a worn out front IFS drive shaft

I have a friend who just bought a Tom Wood front shaft for his Bland Rover....looks just like an IFS front shaft......cost him $285.00 shipped, exchange.

I'm just sayin..
 
tonyota said:
I did mention the used one for all the same reasons listed above.......never see a cardon joint fail

Never seen a worn out front IFS drive shaft

I have a friend who just bought a Tom Wood front shaft for his Bland Rover....looks just like an IFS front shaft......cost him $285.00 shipped, exchange.

I'm just sayin..[/QU
Click to expand...
 
glshubert said:
The shaft has been worked on. The cv and the u joint arent in perfect alignment as they should be. Looks as it has been rewelded in front of the slip joint and behind the cv. They say should b in a straight line. If so it may be all screwed. When u look at it the u and the cv are 5 or more degrees from straight. That would make factory balance wrong. WHAT U THINK?
Click to expand...

The slip yoke is fine spline.

You can remove the lower end of the dshaft (ya have to replace the bad ujoint anyways) from the pinion flange and then pull it off the shaft and rotate it and see if it just got plugged on the wrong spline. It might not have been welded/changed but just put back together in the wrong position.

The driveline guy will not suggest that cuz he knows you dont really understand and he can use it as a scare tactic to get ya to rebuild the whole shaft.
 
All the slip yokes I've worked on were keyed so they only went together one way. Did Toyota make any that weren't keyed?
 
Bogo said:
All the slip yokes I've worked on were keyed so they only went together one way. Did Toyota make any that weren't keyed?
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Maybe on the farm, but in the truck world I have worked with mostly NONkeyed types.

I have actually never worked on a truck with a indexed/keyed shaft now that I think of it.

Toyota torsion
 
Mine is keyed. We pulled it apart and it was keyed and when slid back together the U and the Cardon were not in alignment.

The guy isn't trying to sell me a fix. Actually he talked me out of one. Said put it back in and see how it spins when off of the ground then go from there.

With the two out of align and with the factory balancing slugs on it it has to be out of balance. I haven't had the chance to get it up and run it in the air to see what it looks like. Just don't want to leave it all wrong and chance tearing other stuff up.

I leave the front hubs locked alot and then just grab 4WD with the shifter alot around here. I travel alot on Kentucky backroads in the snow and am off road hunting alot. I am spinning the front drive most of the time. It isn't like I just lock the hubs in every now and then....If that were the case I'd leave as is...but 80% of the time the front is locked at the hubs in the winter. Therefore is shaft isn't right I am taking a chance with the transfer and the diff.

If I could find a used one RIGHT i'd go ahead and buy it. have it built up and then change over.

Have no idea, by the way, why the shaft would have had to be welded back up in front of the splines....?

If they were dumb enuff not to align right it may look like a wet noodle spinning in there.


comments?
 
oh yeah, I have had several back surgeries, my neck is needing some now and I have to work on the thing in the driveway so.....When I bust a move I want it to be right. If I had a garage and was 20 years younger I could "play" with it...Now when I work on my baby it is because I have to. I love this little truck. I have been places in it with Goodyear P235-65-15 Futuras that American trucks wouldn't think of going with 35-10.50s. If I can see a way through she'll go. I wanted this one for years and FINALLY ran up on it. Have put a lot of money in it getting back to great condition and plan on keeping it forever. Wish I had found one a few years older with the old style front axle. But this one will do no harder than I am on it.

They will go forever but when she breaks down HANG ON ! Parts are outrageous. Used to have a '79 Scottsdale Blazer with 400 small block and 400 turbo trans. It was a screaming machine.but was heavy and all that comes with that. Parts for it were 1/4th the price!
 
Do what you're comfortable doing, man. You're not the only guy here wishing you had a garage, or at least a roof to keep the gravel dry!:cheers:
 
glshubert said:
Mine is keyed. We pulled it apart and it was keyed and when slid back together the U and the Cardon were not in alignment.


comments?
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I dont believe you. Toyota did not use a keyed slip. 99 percent of driveline shops will use replacement SPICER slip/splines to replace a worn slipyoke spline.

Spicer slips dont have a key either.


How about a picture of your mystery driveshaft?

Shot of the CV and a shot of the of tube/slip portion please.

Seems like you are thriving on making this more complicated and expensive than it is. :doh:
 
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