87 2F Oil Leak Diagnosis (RMS?)

[WP40]

After cleaning the crime scene I decided to watch without the cover on. Sure enough after about 4 minutes of running, the leak is coming from the flywheel side of the crankshaft bearing cap(?).

Attached video shows the leak starting at about the 4:09 mark.

Can this be 100% said it is from the real main seal?

I also took note of the small oil accumulation at the hole where the retaining clip is on the clutch release fork, I’m assuming that is from the RMS also?

And took note of some wobble/ movement at the fork and release bearing assembly. Is that within normal limits?


I was hoping it was the oil pan but I feel that it’s not, although I’ll be replacing that along with the RMS.

Would like some input on verification and/or any additional information.



Thanks

 

[OSS]

The clutch actuation fork is nowhere near the end of the crankshaft so any little drips falling from it while engine is running are moving because the engine is vibrating. You can see the fork vibrating as engine is running- activating any wet oil to migrate downwards.

It’s not a question if the rear main crankshaft seal is leaking — of course it is. All 2F engines with this many miles have leaky RMSs.

Is your oil pan gasket weeping? Of course it is. They all do.
Is the transmission input shaft oil seal leaking? Of course it is. They all do. (Which is likely why the clutch fork is wet).

To replace the RMS will require removing the transmission — which sounds daunting if you’ve never done it before, but it you get a proper transmission jack at Harbor Freight (not the cheapest one) it’s a very straightforward job. I’ve done it several times.

Working on the FJ60 is probably one of the nicest things about the vehicle. It’s the easiest car to work on. Yeah, things are big and heavy but everything is easy to get to.
Working on the FJ60 is probably one of the funnest things about owning the vehicle. (Oh yeah, and driving off pavement too).

 

[WP40]

Ok so,

RMS
Oil pan gasket
Trans input shaft seal

since the trans is pulled, would there be other seals to consider since I’m already there?
I suppose one can’t know until it’s in view.
I will probably do the clutch as everyone suggests.
Just trying to think ahead regarding parts to buy on the front end and plan my steps.

 

[OSS]

Yes, definitely every clutch component.
And those seals.
There aren’t any other seals that are intrinsic to that job, but you’ll want to replace the shift lever rubber bushing (seat) too as preventative maintenance.
It’s the rubber ring the shift lever rests on in the transmission cover neck.

Make sure — that the transmission is in neutral before pulling the shift lever out.

Get 2 bolts that have the same thread pitch (metric) as the bolts securing the trans to the bellhousing — then cut off the hex end so they become dowels. They’ll save your bacon acting as alignment dowels when sliding the TMS in and out.

My oil pan flange that the gasket seals to was embedded into the old gasket. I couldn’t chip off that old pan gasket without wrecking the flange — so I purchased a new oil pan instead. I could just envision going to all the trouble to try to clean up the gross old pan, reinstall it, then discover leaks afterwards due to my damaged pan flange.

 

[WP40]

Yes, definitely every clutch component.
And those seals.
There aren’t any other seals that are intrinsic to that job, but you’ll want to replace the shift lever rubber bushing (seat) too as preventative maintenance.
It’s the rubber ring the shift lever rests on in the transmission cover neck.

Make sure — that the transmission is in neutral before pulling the shift lever out.

Get 2 bolts that have the same thread pitch (metric) as the bolts securing the trans to the bellhousing — then cut off the hex end so they become dowels. They’ll save your bacon acting as alignment dowels when sliding the TMS in and out.

My oil pan flange that the gasket seals to was embedded into the old gasket. I couldn’t chip off that old pan gasket without wrecking the flange — so I purchased a new oil pan instead. I could just envision going to all the trouble to try to clean up the gross old pan, reinstall it, then discover leaks afterwards due to my damaged pan flange.

View attachment 3695812

Thanks for the advice! Having the transmission in 1st or reverse sounds like something I would do.