Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (6 Viewers)

[bkg]

@Homey15, Thanks for the input on the column. I hope it is plug and play. My gut is in agreement with you on the harness. I'm holding back on my OCD.

@bkg, I'm adding more heat shield to the outside of the firewall. If I was daily driving this I would have plastered the floor and walls with sound deadener. I might regret not putting some in now. I'm still undecided on the floor.

I still have time. My A/C was functional but the seals are dust. I need to pull them apart to clean and reseal it all. Here's a pic of the foam that I just ran my finger across.

View attachment 3643723

I’m one of those people who tore the entire interior out of the cab of two vehicles to add sound deadening … and then wish I had ripped the dash out. On both of my tacomas, I think a majority of the noise comes through the firewall.

Regardless, you’re killing it. Love the build

 

[aztoyman]

If there's enough room between the firewall and the A/C unit in addition to the factory pad, maybe I'll put some in.

I didn't want it on the floor until I decided on what I was doing with the floor. That's not too bad to get to later.

 

[Mudder]

I went all the way up the firewall with mine and had no issues with mounting the AC and heater core. The stuff I used is 80 mils thick.

 

[aztoyman]

I pulled the heater box apart to freshen it up. It's just dusty and the foam door seals were so bad they washed out with water. The plastic is undamaged and still pliable. Nothing cracked or broke off for once. The heater core wasn't leaking but I don't trust the O-rings now that they've been disturbed. I'll get some new foam and a couple O-rings and put it back together. Now on to the rest of the unit.

 

[Mudder]

What foam do you plan on using? I wish I had done that before assembling my dash again.

 

[aztoyman]

@Mudder, I spent WAY too much time today looking for foam, all the types available, searching for posts for information and getting pi$$ed off trying to find the O-rings for the heater core tubes.

I decided that I'm not going to install expensive high tech modern foam when Toyota used some pretty basic open cell stuff that lasted as long as it did. I ordered some Frost King window A/C filter material that's about the same as what was originally in it. I saw some posts on a hot rod forum where an A/C tech suggested it and used it on his car.

I read a few debates on open cell VS closed cell foam and lots of "discussions" saying that it is more for sound than actually sealing. Looking at how this box is built, I think that may be the case. If it sealed, I would think we would have pressure to fight when moving the flaps. Open cell foam prevents noise and whistles and seals as good as it needs to. I just did this job on my 2012 Ram with factory parts and the foam seals looked like basic open cell foam. It has electric door actuators and I don't think they could overcome pressure. Just a thought. I'm not a HVAC engineer.

It's supposed to be here tomorrow so I'll report back once I get a look at it. It was $2.55 for a 24" x 15" x 3/16" filter. I was going to cut out pieces to fit as needed. I'm just going to pick up some appropriately sized weather-strip from Home Depot, Lowe's or ACE for the duct work seals. There's no seal "kits" available for these trucks that I could find.

Not one auto parts store around me had the O-rings for the heater tubes. I got conflicting information online about the size so I measured the used ones I just took out of a couple units. I measured the tubes and the core as well.

For what the dealer wants for one, (and they have to order them) I can get a bag of 25 from McMaster-Carr and have it next day. I'll post up if they fit properly once I get them.

 

[RichardSkinner]

I absolutely hate that style of heater core/tubes. I couldn't put faith in mine when I repaired the leak.

This is a quite a bit more hack level work than you do, but its been working well for me so far.

RockGoat Version 3RZ

I would like a build log so that I can look back on this rig, laugh at my lessons, and keep in perspective that I am indeed making progress. If you want to watch a guy learn from the school of hardknocks then tune in every once in a while. Back story - My brother had a 1987 4runner and I had a...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[aztoyman]

@RichardSkinner, Hey it worked. I saw another post somewhere where he had the radiator shop solder them on. Either way works. Soldering may be less likely to leak but more difficult to replace the core again. Maybe the stock type Toyota spring clamps on the hoses?

The OEM connection with some type of sealer might be a good solution too. I thought someone used RTV but I didn't hear if it worked out.

I'll probably order the two different O-rings from McMaster-Carr and see how they fit. I could have them tomorrow but I'm going to put together a larger order so might be later this week.

I'm kind of over (sick of) cleaning parts. I have 3 units apart so I can pick and choose the best pieces. Thanks for posting.

 

[ntsqd]

On one project I needed the o-ring that seals a Chrysler slant 6's distributor body in the block. Could not find it at any automotive source. Worked out what size it might be and ordered a bag from McMaster. Only needed one, got 100. So 99 of them in 'inventory' for a couple of years with no idea what I might ever use them for.
Turns out that this particular size o-ring also is a perfect fit for sealing NMO antennas to the roof of the vehicle!

Been my experience that the OEM solution, executed with OEM parts or their equal and done as the OEM intended, usually works the best. Trying to supplement a system that isn't known for frequent failures, with a belt & suspenders, usually bites me in the butt.

 

[aztoyman]

I just ordered a couple (packs) of O-rings. They'll be here tomorrow and I'll post up the best fitting of the two.

The heater box is done otherwise. And just for information in case any of you are going to replace the foam. I think I went to the trouble of cutting out the pieces like the factory did for nothing.

I don't see a reason for the cutouts other than maximum use of material to save money by the factory. The cut pieces in the large flap is what fit the smaller flap. If I had to do it again, I would have just cut out the full rectangle shape and size of the flap.

 

[aztoyman]

This is the O-ring that looks to be a perfect fit. I say "looks" because I haven't pressure tested it yet. It is tight enough that it takes effort to fit it together enough to get the band clamp on. It has lube on it in the pic. McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/1295N241/#:~:text=Chemical%2DResistant%20Viton,16%20mm%20ID

 

[aztoyman]

I capped the system off 3 years ago when I started this project but I ordered a new dryer and expansion valve anyway. I almost bought a new evaporator but I had recently been into my system and it just needed to be cleaned up. So I just took the box apart, gave it a bath and new seals.

I replaced the original 22RE A/C amplifier with the one from my 3.4 swap donor. (99 4Runner) Another mod I just had to do was to bend the hard lines coming out of the box because they went straight into the shock tower. I test fit it after the bends but it might be a challenge putting the assembled unit in. I'll have to rotate it in I think because the A/C lines. I'll find out soon.

As a whole, the unit cleaned up really nice and it will be good to have tight seals on everything.

 

[aztoyman]

I cleaned up the blower section and put new foam on the flap/door. New weatherstrip and cleaned the electrical contacts. The motor is aftermarket and it has a fairly new set of resisters. Made in USA at least. I vaguely remember putting these in for the PO.

 

[aztoyman]

Cleaned up and dry lubed the controls and cables. Cleaned out the switches.

 

[aztoyman]

Ideally, I think it's best to install the entire assembled unit. Or the heater section and the blower section and the A/C section last since you CAN insert that section between the two.

However, since I had to bend the A/C hard lines to clear the shock tower...... I got my a$$ kicked trying to find a way to install it all. Let's just say that I hope I don't have to R&I this thing again for a LONG time. All three sections had to go in together but not connected, at the same time if you can imagine that. IT SUCKED.

Slowly making progress though.

 

[aztoyman]

I made more progress but some of it was scouring the internet looking for material to seal my HVAC ducts and picking through piles of parts for the best ones and cleaning them up.

Toyota didn't paint the cab brace or the pedal bracket so they were covered in surface rust. You KNOW I can't put rusty parts back in my freshly painted cab. So I put some phosphoric acid (Kleen-Strip paint and concrete prep) in a spray bottle and took care of the rust. I sprayed some rattle can clear on to keep it nice.

The nylon bushings in the pedals were still like new but my clutch pedal always creaked and I can see why. I welded the hole shut and drilled a new hole. The pin was worn out in both sets of pedals I have. I found a beefier one in my stash. I think it is from my 99 4Runner 3.4 donor. The pin was still able to slightly angle in the bore so I tack welded a couple thick washers to the pedal to give the pin more surface area and keep the slave clevis aligned. The ID of the washers are a snug fit to the pin.

I have seal material on the way for the ducts and ordered new rubber cushions for the bracket and new pads for the pedals. I need to start measuring the square holes for the plastic screw inserts in the body. I'll need a bunch of those in different sizes.

It was 108 degrees in my garage yesterday so my wife and I are going to take our boys camping. Our boys are 5 Golden Retrievers and an Irish Setter ha ha. Camp will be at 9200 ft. or better so it should be a bit cooler.

 

[aztoyman]

More pics of the clutch pedal. I used some dry lube on the nylon bushings. They were still like new after all these years and didn't appear to have any lube on them. The slave rod and clevis don't angle in the bore anymore. Even with the return spring pulling on the side of the pin.

Edit, That's not a weld void in my welded up pin bore. That's a .............um........."Lube Cavity".

 

[Manhattan]

Looks great! I feel your pain on the weather - for a slightly different reason. Painting in the Southeast's humidity can be tricky. When you strip the metal to get it ready for paint, it can "flash rust" right before your eyes. And most rattle cans have a narrow range of humidity, or at least an optimal range - 50-75%

 

[aztoyman]

New video · Wednesday, Jun 12, 2024 ð¬

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photos.app.goo.gl

Trying to post a link to my video. Hopefully it works. This is better than hanging out in the desert at 110°

It was 46° this morning and 77° this afternoon says the thermometer in my truck.

 

[aztoyman]

Max is 12 and his health is declining. May be his last summer up here. He is the father of two of the other boys and the grandpa to the other two Golden's. I miss working on my truck but this is a nice break.