ntsqd
technerd
We are usually our own worst critics. Lines look great!
Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter aztoyman
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- Thread starter
- #1,142
Thanks for the compliments guys. I wasn't beating myself up about how they came out. I'm happy with them. They just kinda kicked my a$$ and took me a while to get them where I wanted. I'll be happier if they don't leak.
Happy Thanksgiving
Happy Thanksgiving
- Thread starter
- #1,143
I finally got my parts and some time to work on this.
The brakes are done for the most part. I have to weld a tab on for one of the bulkhead fittings, I need to finish up and paint another one of the brackets I made and they should be ready for the first road test. Whenever that is.
Here's where the lines on the cab transition to the ones on the frame.
The brakes are done for the most part. I have to weld a tab on for one of the bulkhead fittings, I need to finish up and paint another one of the brackets I made and they should be ready for the first road test. Whenever that is.
Here's where the lines on the cab transition to the ones on the frame.
- Thread starter
- #1,144
Here's where they continue to the inside of the frame rail. The unpainted bracket holds the double bulkhead fittings. I just need to pretty it up. (In pic above)
The rear continues back and connects to the flex hose running behind the battery box to the rear upper link.
I'm going to add more line clamps to all the hard lines. Even on the axles.
You can see where the front goes. A lot of suspension cycling involved due to the tight clearances around the slave cylinder.
The rear continues back and connects to the flex hose running behind the battery box to the rear upper link.
I'm going to add more line clamps to all the hard lines. Even on the axles.
You can see where the front goes. A lot of suspension cycling involved due to the tight clearances around the slave cylinder.
- Thread starter
- #1,145
Here's the line attached to the upper link. It's so close to the slave cylinder that I decided not to run the line the full length or the clamp would be making things even tighter.
I couldn't really run the line parallel along the tube either. This orientation allows better flex hose routing. I still haven't welded up the link.
I filled the system with brake fluid to check for leaks. Nothing so far. I even tried slamming on the pedal to see if any of my hoses would pop.
I had too much pedal travel at first. Adjusting up the rear shoes took care of that.
The clutch system is good to go as well.
Too bad I have to pull the cab again. I figured it's better to find problems now.
Check out the driveline angle at max droop in the bottom pic. You can see why I had to limit down travel a bit.
I couldn't really run the line parallel along the tube either. This orientation allows better flex hose routing. I still haven't welded up the link.
I filled the system with brake fluid to check for leaks. Nothing so far. I even tried slamming on the pedal to see if any of my hoses would pop.
I had too much pedal travel at first. Adjusting up the rear shoes took care of that.
The clutch system is good to go as well.
Too bad I have to pull the cab again. I figured it's better to find problems now.
Check out the driveline angle at max droop in the bottom pic. You can see why I had to limit down travel a bit.
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- Thread starter
- #1,146
Here's max stuff. Pretty tight in there.
I'm going to add a hose clamp to the center of the hardline on the link.
I'm going to add a hose clamp to the center of the hardline on the link.
- Thread starter
- #1,147
I have my fuel tank and I was going to pull the fuel pump from my 88. Then I thought about it and remembered I put that pump in when the 88 belonged to my buddy. That was around 2004 or 2005. So a new Denso pump is on the way.
I decided that my front shock reservoirs can only go one place and that's on the side of the shock towers. I have the weld on tabs that allow you to clamp them on. I just need to get them welded on and get some clamps.
I'm kinda figuring out where stuff has to go under the hood. Like mounting the evap canister and figuring out where battery cable will come up and what terminals, etc. will be used. I'll get pics once I do it.
I'm STILL trying to figure out how I'm going to prep the cab for paint. It's gonna suck if the guy that said he would blast it can't do it.
So this is my latest update.
I decided that my front shock reservoirs can only go one place and that's on the side of the shock towers. I have the weld on tabs that allow you to clamp them on. I just need to get them welded on and get some clamps.
I'm kinda figuring out where stuff has to go under the hood. Like mounting the evap canister and figuring out where battery cable will come up and what terminals, etc. will be used. I'll get pics once I do it.
I'm STILL trying to figure out how I'm going to prep the cab for paint. It's gonna suck if the guy that said he would blast it can't do it.
So this is my latest update.
ntsqd
technerd
What media are you thinking to use for the blasting of the cab?
- Thread starter
- #1,149
IDK what the person was going to use that originally offered. I did see pics of his restorations though. He was supposed to meet with me and discuss all that.
My research was pointing towards various grades of abrasive with crushed glass being a favorite of many. It seems that the baking soda can cause problems with paint. Same with phosphoric acid with certain primers so I was going to avoid both. Local availability matters because shipping 50# bags is expensive.
I just bought a cheap blasting attachment for my pressure washer and tried fine and medium grit Black Diamond coal slag. It worked ok and might be what I end up doing. I really just need to blast the areas that are to difficult to sand because of the contours. The radiator support, engine bay and firewall and the bottom of the cab. The rest I can hit with a DA.
Any suggestions?
My research was pointing towards various grades of abrasive with crushed glass being a favorite of many. It seems that the baking soda can cause problems with paint. Same with phosphoric acid with certain primers so I was going to avoid both. Local availability matters because shipping 50# bags is expensive.
I just bought a cheap blasting attachment for my pressure washer and tried fine and medium grit Black Diamond coal slag. It worked ok and might be what I end up doing. I really just need to blast the areas that are to difficult to sand because of the contours. The radiator support, engine bay and firewall and the bottom of the cab. The rest I can hit with a DA.
Any suggestions?
ntsqd
technerd
Definitely not sand.
I've read of some using crushed walnut shells. Indirectly I happen to know just how abrasive those can be. Some of the walnut packing houses in Nor-CA have their concrete slabs Line-X'd so that they last longer then 3 years. Seems that all of the fork-lift traffic grinds the shells into the slabs and before long they've got ruts in the concrete. It's good to be that Line-X contractor!
The media of choice for the high-end shops around here seems to be dry ice. Nice that there is nothing left behind by the process. No idea how abrasive it is.
I've read of some using crushed walnut shells. Indirectly I happen to know just how abrasive those can be. Some of the walnut packing houses in Nor-CA have their concrete slabs Line-X'd so that they last longer then 3 years. Seems that all of the fork-lift traffic grinds the shells into the slabs and before long they've got ruts in the concrete. It's good to be that Line-X contractor!
The media of choice for the high-end shops around here seems to be dry ice. Nice that there is nothing left behind by the process. No idea how abrasive it is.
Whenever I get to it, I'll be using crushed glass. Leaves plenty tooth for epoxy and supposedly safer than sand.
Do your homework on how NOT to warp panels in the process. Many horror stories out there of panels getting wasted due to bad blasters.
@ntsqd...Does dry ice leave enough tooth for primer or is a post sanding needed?
Do your homework on how NOT to warp panels in the process. Many horror stories out there of panels getting wasted due to bad blasters.
@ntsqd...Does dry ice leave enough tooth for primer or is a post sanding needed?
ntsqd
technerd
No idea. I have heard of it being used, but have yet to see anything processed that way. I imagine that someone somewhere has posted about it. Would not surprise me at all of that post was on the H.A.M.B.
- Thread starter
- #1,153
I media blasted an entire 67 Camaro years ago and was aware of panel warp. I traded Camaro parts in exchange for using the facility.
Even with a suit and air supply that job SUCKS.
I'm not looking for a show car paint job for this crawler but I do want it to look decent after all this work.
This truck baked in the sun for years and the paint looks and feels like alligator skin. No such thing as cheap "automotive" paint. Just expensive and REAL expensive. So I want it to stick. Even Monstaliner requires proper prep or it won't bond well.
Quotes I got around here to have it (media blasting) done for me is out of my budget. Once I get my fuel system done I'll be doing a lot of "something" to prep the cab for paint. I have to get at least the bottom, engine bay and floor in paint to continue the build. The rest can be done later.
I'm thinking of leaving the interior blue. It's in good condition and matches the interior plastic and carpet.
This is my thinking as of now anyway.
Even with a suit and air supply that job SUCKS.
I'm not looking for a show car paint job for this crawler but I do want it to look decent after all this work.
This truck baked in the sun for years and the paint looks and feels like alligator skin. No such thing as cheap "automotive" paint. Just expensive and REAL expensive. So I want it to stick. Even Monstaliner requires proper prep or it won't bond well.
Quotes I got around here to have it (media blasting) done for me is out of my budget. Once I get my fuel system done I'll be doing a lot of "something" to prep the cab for paint. I have to get at least the bottom, engine bay and floor in paint to continue the build. The rest can be done later.
I'm thinking of leaving the interior blue. It's in good condition and matches the interior plastic and carpet.
This is my thinking as of now anyway.
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ntsqd
technerd
Perhaps something like LizardSkin thermal barrier on the bottom and firewall of the cab, and the "Rustoleum & Elbow Grease" paint method for the exterior? I don't recall the particulars of the Rustoleum method, but as I recall it is lay on a couple coats or paint (thinned, from a can rather than aerosol), block sand, lay a couple coats, block and, buff, and yer GTG. Some guy an a MOPAR forum was the first posting that I'd seen maybe 15 years ago. Simple to make it a 20 footer, and can get nicer with more elbow grease, but not ever going to have the show car paint guys quaking in their boots.
- Thread starter
- #1,155
Thanks for any and all suggestions. It gives me something to research until I get to a stopping point and have to make a decision. @ntsqd, I have read a LOT of posts on the Hamb. Especially from one member named Paint Guru. I contacted him a while back for recommendations as well.
If you're wanting to blast the intricate areas strictly to avoid sanding, I would definitely not. You'll need to epoxy prime the bare steel, and the primer will still need prepped/sanded for topcoat. If you've got a halfway decent surface to work with, I'd get some of these scuff pads and go to town, then paint over what you've already got. Fwiw, I only blast for rust removal. If I've got a unacceptable substrate for applying new paint to I'd strip with 80 grit on a d/a or chemical stripper if there's alot of build to get rid of.
Amazon product ASIN B00EW7MA78
- Thread starter
- #1,157
@Homey15, I didn't think I could scuff up every square inch of surface area on those intricate surface shapes and was worried about a lack of bond for the primer.
I've been told epoxy primer is the way to go. And then someone tells me it's for bare metal. Then I read that it's good for all surfaces as long as it has tooth to bond to.
I actually have that stuff in my Amazon cart because it's looking like my only option right now.
So if I power wash the hell out of it and scuff it up, I can use epoxy primer?
It will be a mix of bare metal and scuffed paint.
I've been told epoxy primer is the way to go. And then someone tells me it's for bare metal. Then I read that it's good for all surfaces as long as it has tooth to bond to.
I actually have that stuff in my Amazon cart because it's looking like my only option right now.
So if I power wash the hell out of it and scuff it up, I can use epoxy primer?
It will be a mix of bare metal and scuffed paint.
ntsqd
technerd
I don't know how well it would work on something like this, but on small parts that have paint already on them I've been known to very lightly blast the paint. Not trying to remove it, just rough it up so that my coat of paint will stick.
FFT anyway....
FFT anyway....
- Thread starter
- #1,159
Makes sense. I might have to do something like that in the really tight areas.
Those scuff pads will make life much easier when prepping tedious areas like the core support and inner fenders/floors. (It is still going to be unpleasant, just less of a pain in the ass than sandpaper). It confirms well to odd shapes and you can sort of wad it up and get into crevices you'd never get done with paper. I've prepped many a door jamb, core support, and hood underside- along with lots of other complex/unpleasant surfaces over the years with them and they're my go to item for those areas. Epoxy primer is definitely the product I'd use. It's a dtm primer so it'll adhere to bare steel, and will also happily stick to well prepped existing paint. Again, I've sprayed it over both surfaces more times than I care to count over the years and have never had a adhesion issue. If it were me prepping your truck, I'd go nuts with the pressure washer, then scrub the s*** outta it with dawn dish soapy water and a clean rag before doing a thorough rinse. Let it completely dry then get to work with the scuff pads. Once you're done, blow everything off very well with compressed air and inspect for spots that need more scuffing (there will definitely be areas that show up after getting rid of the dust). Re scuff as necessary. Blow with air again and repeat the process until there's no glaring, shiny unsanded areas. Once you're satisfied, wipe down with wax and grease remover on lint free paper towels and get to spraying. Repeat this process minus the washing with psi washer and dawn to prep the epoxy for topcoat.
