Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (1 Viewer)

[aztoyman]

Thanks @bkg, I have some ideas to try AFTER I get my axle back under. I found a few tanks that will "fit the space" but I have to make sure I can fill it too. The spare will be right on top. It also cuts off space for my exhaust.

I've made fuel tanks before out of sheet metal and cut up and modified stock tanks. I TIG'd them and no leaks so fabrication is not off the table. RCI will make a custom tank for not much more than the off the shelf ones........I'm told anyway. 5052 aluminum isn't cheap so IDK what I'll do yet.

I'll probably stick the bed back on to really get a good look at what I have to work with.

 

[ntsqd]

If it ends up behind the axle will you move the filler "port" in the bedside or plumb from there to the tank? If you move the filler I'd suggest copying the angle that the OE part sits at so that filling it isn't an exercise in holding the nozzle, and your mouth, *just* right to get it to fill. I love older rigs, but none of them work right with the current fill nozzles and that gets old pretty fast.

 

[aztoyman]

If it ends up behind the axle will you move the filler "port" in the bedside or plumb from there to the tank? If you move the filler I'd suggest copying the angle that the OE part sits at so that filling it isn't an exercise in holding the nozzle, and your mouth, *just* right to get it to fill. I love older rigs, but none of them work right with the current fill nozzles and that gets old pretty fast.

No definite plan. The only thing I knew when I decided on the 4 link was that I have to figure out a place for a tank. One mod led to another...............and here I am.

I put my priorities out there and get feedback and ideas from you guys. My garage time is very limited right now so I have more time to think about possibilities and throw around ideas.

 

[aztoyman]

Got a few hours out in the garage today. I have COVID so I'm not moving very fast. Had a couple rough days but I'm on the mend at least. I was determined to get the back brace/truss extended like @mustcamp suggested. I got all the pieces cut and tacked up. 5 pieces per side. I'm going to put a couple vertical gussets on top like on the steering knuckles as well.

I have to be careful not to warp my housing so taking my time, allowing cool down between beads, leaving axles installed, peening areas I feel need it, etc.

Since I'm kind of a slug right now my goal is to finish the welding tomorrow, get it painted and hopefully installed this weekend. I might stop after paint.

 

[ntsqd]

Ever used a needle scaler for peening a weld? I'd never heard of it until I worked in a steam turbine Power Plant. Those welders used them, big honkers, all the time. I bought a little HF unit to remove some tile grout from our fireplace, but have yet to try that with it. Oddly, it is very effective at removing rust.....

 

[aztoyman]

Yep, I actually prefer it over my air chisel. I no longer have a working needle scaler. I have a smoothed over worn down air chisel I shaped to get by. I learned about it from my welding instructor way back in the mid 80's. Mainly on cast iron. He was from the UK and used to travel the world TIG welding pipe at Nuke power plants. Some of the old timers at the mines used to peen welds with needle guns too. Not just for slag removal. In certain applications they said it relieved stress in the joint.

It seems to help on areas such as the radius at the flange/bearing pocket of the axle. These tubes are thin and easy to distort. I have had bearings stick/tighten up in the bores after welding similar components that don't get stuck after peening. Maybe it's a false sense of security? My axles are still sliding in and out like they should. I check them a lot as I go to make sure.

I was also aboard ships in the Navy so I KNOW they can remove paint and rust too. Nasty, noisy, job.

 

[ntsqd]

I remember my grandad welding something with his trusty buzzbox and then telling me to hammer all over the weld with the chipping hammer and to keep going until he said to stop. Beating on something with a hammer and making noise, what 8 year old boy could turn that down?

A good friend used one on a aluminum intake that he built out of weld elbows. Ground it all down and blended everything together. Then used the needle scaler to make it look like a casting. Sent the "gurus" in that part of the car world into a tizzy trying to figure out where he bought that intake because no one had ever seen one like it before.

 

[aztoyman]

Finished welding the back brace extensions on. Was getting ready to paint it and saw my drain plug. I like my drain plug. I don't like my drain plug as a rock anchor so I decided to turn it into a drain plug rock slider.

I know back in the day guys cut the bottom out of these axles and welded in plate to gain a bit of ground clearance. They had to drain the oil from a bolt hole. No thanks.

I grabbed a piece of 1/4" scrap off the floor and made my slider. It should keep the ring from getting ripped off and destroying my plug. Or that's the plan anyway. It should also help keep my bottom studs and gasket area from getting rock rash. Looks like I'm painting tomorrow.

 

[aztoyman]

My wet rag heat sink. Hopefully I didn't damage my Lube-Locker gasket. I welded a little at a time.

 

[aztoyman]

I managed to get the bottom of the axle painted. I still have welding to do on top.

 

[aztoyman]

I installed it and routed the parking brake cable. Fabricated a simple mounting bracket for the pivot and welded it on.

I made my rear brake lines and welded on some tabs to secure the lines. I'll get pics after paint.

I cut out the gussets from some 1/2" flat bar and got them welded in. The ends of the axle tube definitely have some support now.

Hopefully paint tomorrow.

 

[aztoyman]

Finished painting the rear axle this morning. Started putting stuff back on once it was dry to touch.

 

[aztoyman]

I used AN fittings and 3/16" NiCopp brake tubing. I put stainless spiral guard over it. I have hose ends and braided stainless, PTFE hose ordered to make the flex hoses.

 

[aztoyman]

I have a scrap piece of 1/2" thick PVC board that I cut some mounts from. I wanted them to clamp my hard lines to the upper links with hose clamps.

This is the first try. I'll know exactly the amount of standoff once I make my hoses. You can see the bulkhead fitting it will connect to. I'm holding it on for the pic. I don't have any clamps yet.

 

[aztoyman]

Mocked up the back half of the exhaust. It works out REALLY well right here. It clears EVERYTHING. I can even get link bolts out if I need to. Pics are with the rear at full stuff.

I'd need to weld in a band clamp and hangers if I leave it here. Most likely I will.

I need to figure out limit straps and get them ordered.

 

[WoodsTruck]

Nice,

Were you going to mill a groove out of the top of the plastic tubing bracket for the hose clamp to nest in?

 

[aztoyman]

If it needs one I guess? I know the rubber ones you buy have a groove. This stuff I used is pretty rigid so I hope I won't have to. I used it to re-make the seat bases in my boat. Replaced plywood.

I started to order the ones Poly Performance sells since they're pretty inexpensive. Then the shipping was over $20 so I emptied my cart. They were for two lines or hoses side by side anyway. I just need a single.

 

[ntsqd]

What I like to do with tube to hose transitions is to use a bulkhead union to connect them, and put the union in a tab or hole in something. In this case I'd weld the tab to a semi-circular piece of steel that a hose clamp will hold to the link's tube. Like this, only the the blue tab would be welded to the curved piece of steel that the hose clamp would sit on top of.

For what that's worth anyway.....

 

[aztoyman]

I have a bulkhead T in a weld on tab I fabricated at the top near my upper links. I bought a few straight bulkhead fittings as well just for the purpose you mentioned. You might have pointed me in this direction earlier in my build. Same with the reusable hose ends. I appreciate the advice.

 

[aztoyman]

@ntsqd I just re-read your post. To put bulkhead fittings ON the link, I'd have to have an angle tab with a hole so I could clamp it to the tube. That way I can adjust the link if needed and keep my hard line where I want it. ( Just like you said)

I put the bulkhead T and union at the other hard lines end and welded the tab like your pic. Hoping the clamps on the tube will work. If not, I'll have to go a different direction like you mentioned.