hey, ya never know when you'll fall into some random car show!
Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter aztoyman
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #743
Thanks for the compliments and following along you guys. I might have a little more to post soon. I have a lot going on.
- Thread starter
- #744
I did manage to get the passenger side inner fender welded in.
Then I started on the trans cover.
Then I started on the trans cover.
- Thread starter
- #745
I really wanted a removable cover but I'm really struggling with this sheet metal fabrication. I almost said screw it and welded one in but access to the transmission and T cases would suck. So I forged ahead.
The engine and trans are sitting high and the triple shifters needed more room. Anyway, here's where I'm at. The neighbors got assaulted with my hammering. Especially the air hammer.
The cover is asymmetrical and really kicked my a$$ getting it to fit the contour of the floor.
Lots of bending, hammering, test fit, more hammering and bending......
It's just held in with self tapping sheet metal screws but it fits and stiffens up the floor. I'm ordering some more Riv-nuts and machine screws to secure it.
Still have to cut the shifter holes and weld the bottom side after I pull the cab.
The engine and trans are sitting high and the triple shifters needed more room. Anyway, here's where I'm at. The neighbors got assaulted with my hammering. Especially the air hammer.
The cover is asymmetrical and really kicked my a$$ getting it to fit the contour of the floor.
Lots of bending, hammering, test fit, more hammering and bending......
It's just held in with self tapping sheet metal screws but it fits and stiffens up the floor. I'm ordering some more Riv-nuts and machine screws to secure it.
Still have to cut the shifter holes and weld the bottom side after I pull the cab.
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- Thread starter
- #746
Here's a bottom view. It's two pieces but I ended up having to make a couple cuts to get the correct bend on the rear section.
- Thread starter
- #747
It's going to have plenty of room to work for R&I or repairs. These pics are before a LOT more hammering and bending. It's not completely done yet but it's close.
I might add bracing underneath. Just for reference, the factory floor measured @ .030" thick. The covers I made are 20 gauge (.040")
I might add bracing underneath. Just for reference, the factory floor measured @ .030" thick. The covers I made are 20 gauge (.040")
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- Thread starter
- #748
Fabbed a couple sheet metal covers for the two access holes in the floor. Used to be a welded in hump over the torsion bar adjusters.
- Thread starter
- #749
I need some opinions. I know I've been complaining about sheet metal work but I don't like this wasted space behind the passenger seat.
This big bump is for fuel tank clearance.
That tank is gone and it looks like it might be a good location for my battery.
It would be moving about 50# below the floor.
This big bump is for fuel tank clearance.
That tank is gone and it looks like it might be a good location for my battery.
It would be moving about 50# below the floor.
- Thread starter
- #750
Plenty of room below and plenty of support is available. I gotta think about it. I'd rather not put my battery in the bed. Not much room left as it is.
ntsqd
technerd
I'd make a bracket to hold a Group 65 in there.
Wait, I sort of did for the 'house' battery. Not under a Toyota, but a Ford. With it's C-channel frame I knew that the frame would flex and the bracket needed to allow for that or it would be breaking parts. I tucked it up tight enough to the floor that I have to remove one of the "shackle" bolts to R&R the battery. The blue plastic is part of a Delo 400 gallon jug and it's there just in case something goes T-U. The ratchet strap is secondary retainer. I wasn't 120% convinced that my clamp (visible under where the strap is doubled) was always going to work.
Wait, I sort of did for the 'house' battery. Not under a Toyota, but a Ford. With it's C-channel frame I knew that the frame would flex and the bracket needed to allow for that or it would be breaking parts. I tucked it up tight enough to the floor that I have to remove one of the "shackle" bolts to R&R the battery. The blue plastic is part of a Delo 400 gallon jug and it's there just in case something goes T-U. The ratchet strap is secondary retainer. I wasn't 120% convinced that my clamp (visible under where the strap is doubled) was always going to work.
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- Thread starter
- #752
Pretty cool design. I like the rod ends to swing it down and isolate flex.
I was thinking a steel box (ammo can?) welded into the floor so I can access it from the top. I wouldn't have to crawl under the truck and it wouldn't be exposed to the elements. I can vent it to the outside.
I was thinking a steel box (ammo can?) welded into the floor so I can access it from the top. I wouldn't have to crawl under the truck and it wouldn't be exposed to the elements. I can vent it to the outside.
- Thread starter
- #753
I found a 16 gauge sheet metal Optima Battery Box that's made to drop in the floor. I think it is perfect for what I want to do. I ordered it today.
I'll post up once I get it in the mail.
So I plugged away on cab sheet metal work.
I've only had a few hours over a few days to work on it.
I'll post up once I get it in the mail.
So I plugged away on cab sheet metal work.
I've only had a few hours over a few days to work on it.
- Thread starter
- #754
I like the access to my shifters, transmission and T cases but I didn't like the sharp edges left after cutting the hole.
A friend had given me a few different sheets of steel in different gauges so I cut some strips of 22 gauge, bent them in half and formed them over the cut edges.
I don't have many sheet metal tools so I stuck a cutoff wheel from my die grinder in my cordless Ryobi saw.
A friend had given me a few different sheets of steel in different gauges so I cut some strips of 22 gauge, bent them in half and formed them over the cut edges.
I don't have many sheet metal tools so I stuck a cutoff wheel from my die grinder in my cordless Ryobi saw.
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- Thread starter
- #755
I used my vise and a piece of angle to bend the strips.
- Thread starter
- #756
I used a bunch of my vise grips and a body hammer to pinch the strip over the cut edge of the floor and form it tight. Tack welded as I moved across the opening.
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- Thread starter
- #757
It really stiffened up the floor and there's a smooth edge now. Plus the Riv-nuts now go through two layers of 22 gauge sandwiched over the 20 gauge floor. I still need to weld from the bottom of the cab when I pull it. Plus a little hammer and dolly work.
I did have a towel covering the trans. I took it off for the pics.
I did have a towel covering the trans. I took it off for the pics.
Pics through the whole process are cool. It came out looking really good. I could see some giving up mid way through, but definitely came out as a good product if stuck through.
- Thread starter
- #759
Thanks. I never give up. Distracted by life events.
ntsqd
technerd
This pic just caught my eye. They are not cheap, but buy just one of these: Lenox MetalMAX Cut-off Wheel or similar in whatever size and I think that you'll be impressed with how fast they cut and how long they last. If you look at inches of cut in their life I think they're actually less expensive than a traditional cut-off wheel. MISF was dubious, so I gave him one of mine. Now he won't buy anything else.
