Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (6 Viewers)

[aztoyman]

I set toe, well close anyway. Remeasured and marked the center of the axle so I can accurately set the pan hard bar.

I moved the barrel end mount further to the passenger side a little. I also realized that the mounting bolt is directly under the tie rod so I have to pull the driver side tie rod end to R&I the cylinder. It doesn't hit the tie rod in operation. I have a plan B and I'll post pics once I get it done.

I fabbed up the upper knuckle ball gussets. Still need to do the lowers.

I'm still trying to get rid of parts from the half truck I bought so I've been pulled off this a few times.

 

[aztoyman]

I feel I had a productive day today.

Here's a few pics. I can bolt the cylinder on from the top or bottom. It won't ever fall out if on top but I have to pop the tie rod off to remove the bolt.

From the bottom is probably what I'll do. I can drill a hole in the end of the bolt and pin it for extra security. It won't interfere with the diff plug either.

I welded on a 5/8-18 tall nut for a mount between the 3/16" plate. It is the perfect height for the cylinder. Lots of thread engagement. I can even put a wrench on it and the bolt.

I still need to do the diff armor and a gusset on the cylinder mount.

 

[aztoyman]

I alternated between cutting and fitting steel and welding short sections up. I let things cool to the touch before welding another section. I skipped around and alternated top and bottom.

I never found my axle alignment bar. I have the axle assembled for the most part. No seals.

My parts fit up is tight with no gaps. Heavy tacks evenly spaced. Ruff Stuff Off Road recommends starting at the diff and working out for their back brace so that's what I tried here. So far the axles still slide in and out easily. No binding I can notice when I turn the pinion so hopefully I'm ok. We'll see. I'm more concerned about when I do the knuckle ball gussets.

 

[ntsqd]

Doesn't look like you have room for one, but have you seen these?
Hex Capture Plug Weld Washer - https://barnes4wd.com/products/hex-capture-plug-weld-washer
I needed some for bolts smaller than what they offer so I drew it in CAD and had sendcutsend.com burn me out 8 of them.

Could also drill the bolt head and put a small hole in the upper gusset to run safety wire thru. I did something like this for the swinger bolts on the Blanc-Oh's rear bumper. Can see the hole in the bolt head, but not the one in the tab next to it. This is the best pic that I have of it:

 

[aztoyman]

Barnes has a lot of cool parts for fab and at pretty good prices. I didn't see that though. Pretty slick.

Also, Today I ordered the brake mounting brackets from Sky.

 

[gnob]

looking good. i just made a road trip to Skys.

 

[toyotaboy80]

Thats looking sweet. Nice work on the ram mount/front gusset. Your welds look pretty nice also!

 

[aztoyman]

Thanks. The super nice welds on the brackets were done by Nick, the welder at 4WU. I can't see as well or hold my hands as steady as I used ta could.

Been rainy and cold here so I just ordered parts. Inner axle seals and gaskets to get this assembled soon. I bent up some metal today for reinforcing the knuckle balls. Maybe tomorrow I can get something done.

 

[aztoyman]

I decided to bend up a lower gusset for the short side similar to what Toyota put on the long side. I made cardboard template, cut out some 3/16" steel and bent it mainly in my hydraulic press. I wanted it to fit tight to the contour of the housing.

The reason I did it is because I saw a pic on Pirate of a cutaway of this axle at the knuckle ball. And thinking about it, the 4 bent axles I've personally seen in friend's trucks were at the ends where the knuckles joined the sheet metal housing.

They had the typical top gusset that comes with the SAS kit and the shock mount type ball gussets. Still bent. They were Bozo's and drove like idiots so.....

Anyway I did what I hope will help some. Makes me feel better at least. It's 1/2" flat bar tied into my link brackets.

 

[aztoyman]

I think I'm done welding on the housing. Hopefully I can get this out on the driveway tomorrow to grind/sand as needed to smooth and prep for paint. Some of the plate still has mill scale on it.

I like having the drain plug so I wasn't going to cut the bottom for a little bit of clearance. I did add some plate to serve as a ramp whenever I drag the diff. At least I won't get the lip hung up on rocks. I also ran some beads around the drain plug ring.

 

[aztoyman]

I have two options for the mounting bolt for the hydro assist cylinder. A shouldered bolt to go in from the top. Like I mentioned, it requires pulling the tie rod to R&I.

Or I have this bolt to come up from the bottom with a jamb nut on top for extra security. This is what I'm going with.

 

[aztoyman]

And I got my brackets from Sky today. Look pretty good so far. The bolts are 10.9 flange bolts.

I almost have everything to put it all together. Waiting for some .004" and.008" knuckle shims and I haven't ordered brake pads yet. I did find out the pads are the same ones that my wife's FJ Cruiser uses. The paint can harden while that stuff is in the mail.

I'll drop the links and get them welded and painted as well.

 

[ntsqd]

The shouldered bolt is the better bet, particularly if there is room for the shoulder to get a little ways into that welded-on nut. Even better would be to drill all of the threads out of that nut to just at the shoulder diameter and take the shoulder at least halfway thru the far plate from the bolt head.

 

[aztoyman]

Yeah it works out perfect from the top. I'm not drilling out the weld nut so it's either going to be shouldered from the top or from the bottom with threads in the rod end bore.

 

[ntsqd]

I asked about the paint and then didn't get back to that. FWIW I've been using "Steel-It" lately and I'm impressed so far. It had better be good, it isn't cheap. Coverage seems better than a typical rattle can, and the new cans are heavy!

 

[aztoyman]

I know that paint. It IS pretty dang durable.

 

[ntsqd]

Haven't had reason to try it, but the mfg says that it can be welded through - no need to remove it before welding.

 

[toyotaboy80]

Should be able to jump that housing and keep it square! Lol.

With the bolt going through the bottom, only the jam nut is clamping the ram in place. The theory behind a shouldered bolt would be so if the bolt moves the threads dont chew out the holes theyre going through. In any event I think youd want to develop enough campling force that the ram will never budge. Id probably drill the threads out and run it in true bolt fashion or cap screw it from the top into the nut.

 

[aztoyman]

Thanks for your input guys.

If I drill out the tall nut to put a shouldered bolt from the bottom, I'd have to get a long bolt and cut it to size and put a nut on top. That idea means no off the shelf bolt and a potential to come loose and drop out. I'll just stick to the original plan. Yous two guys are right.

I have a new 2 1/2" 5/8-18 grade 8 shouldered bolt on standby that is the perfect fit. I guess I better put it in service since two of yous guys that are more knowledgeable than I have pointed that out. It was my original plan until I couldn't get it in or out during mock up.

I ran that cylinder for a couple years now without removing it so definitely not a common occurrence. It actually came with two hitch pins and cotter pins to retain them so this is an upgrade. It's a LOT more solid than it was.

I'm still NOT going to jump it toyota boy! Well, not intentionally. Haha.

 

[toyotaboy80]

Could run a stover nut....if the bolt became loose I dont think the stover would ever unthread itself without wrench intervention.