85 fj60 lspv?

[Glenvan]

I picked up an FJ60 that had been in storage for awhile. The PO used it mainly for hauling his boat to the lake. After freeing a stuck RR brake and bell crank I bled the brakes; three times unsuccessfully. There is no LSPV. I assume the FJ60's had these gizmos?

 

[land crusher]

No. Only the 62 (not sure about 61 or other non-US 60 series).

 

[hj 60]

The only problem I had was when I forgot to bleed the lspv:
hj60 1985:

I bleed them alone; put a plastic hose on the bleeder(s) and a old tube of brakehose on the other end of the plastic in a bottle with a little bottom of brakefluid and no need for help, it bleeds by gravity anyway.
picture is the materials for a new line (buying prebuild is far more easier!)

-there is an old front soft brakeline with minor cracks near the metal.
-one spanner #10 #11 with opening to close the brakelines (for opening cut them and use a proper #10)
-one tool to cut the new lines (no sawing), and a tool to press them. (for toyota you press twice on one side to make a proper connection) (press 1=OP.1 DIN1 4.75 mm and press 2= OP2 4.75/6 mm 3/16 and 1/4 in.

 

[klinetime574]

It has a proportioning valve (I think that's what it's called) under the master cylinder, but FJ60's in the US never had anything near the rear axle.

Attached is a picture of it. That was a new master cylinder leaking in the photo from the plastic elbow, undid the c-clip and replaced the o-ring, pretty sure I'm still using that one.

 

[Elbert]

not on usa model FJ60's

Replace all your rubber brakes hoses and start over with the bleeding....

 

[Glenvan]

Thanks, I'll try that.

 

[gregnash]

Make sure that you are bleeding in the proper order of furtherest to closest (LR>RR>LF>RF). And there is no "stock" LSPV on the FJ60. Might have something clogged elsewhere though, I recently bled my brakes using a HF Vacuum Hand bleeder and the thing was well worth the $25.

 

[batthewmrown]

Make sure that you are bleeding in the proper order of furtherest to closest (LR>RR>LF>RF). And there is no "stock" LSPV on the FJ60. Might have something clogged elsewhere though, I recently bled my brakes using a HF Vacuum Hand bleeder and the thing was well worth the $25.

I was under the assumption that the RR was the longest brake line and then the LR? Am I mistaken? My brakes went mush on me all the sudden a few weeks ago so I bled 'em and they're no better, but I went RR > LR > RF > LF.

 

[60Works]

LR RR LF RF

Bleed the master and proportioning valve first.

 

[batthewmrown]

LR RR LF RF

Bleed the master and proportioning valve first.

Got it. I'm in an FJ60, so no LSPV, correct? That's how I wound up on this thread in the first place...

 

[60Works]

Got it. I'm in an FJ60, so no LSPV, correct? That's how I wound up on this thread in the first place...

Correct. USA 60's don't have Load Sensing Proportioning Valves. They do have a (static) proportioning valve located just beneath the master cylinder.

 

[60Works]

If you trace the lines out you will find that they don't go directly to each wheel. They split at the master to front and rear, immediately travel through the proportioning valve, then cross over as a parallel pair to the right side of the vehicle on the firewall. From there they drop to the frame, split front and rear attached to the frame, then travel to the axles as flex lines. Once on the axles they split again left and right. It's why the LR is the longest.

Edit - Just noticed the time stamps and that you're not the OP. Sorry for the TMI.

 

[batthewmrown]

If you trace the lines out you will find that they don't go directly to each wheel. They split at the master to front and rear, immediately travel through the proportioning valve, then cross over as a parallel pair to the right side of the vehicle on the firewall. From there they drop to the frame, split front and rear attached to the frame, then travel to the axles as flex lines. Once on the axles they split again left and right. It's why the LR is the longest.

Edit - Just noticed the time stamps and that you're not the OP. Sorry for the TMI.

No need to apologize. I'm a novice so any wisdom I can glean is appreciated. Plus I'd really love for my brakes to work better.

 

[60Works]

@gregnash has a link to the Factory Service Manuals (FSM) for your 60 in his signature line. The FSM is the Land Cruiser bible.

Dropbox - TOYOTA FSM - Simplify your life

Referencing your initial post on this thread @mtnbrown619, if your brakes had an immediate degradation without you changing any components then you probably developed a leak in the system. Look for fresh fluid where the master bolts to the booster, at each of the 4 flex lines, and at each wheel. If you find something, take a picture and post a new thread. You'll get lots of help and encouragement and advice on where to get OEM quality parts without paying dealership prices. On a previously neglected vehicle you would expect to need a new master, front pads, and possibly front calipers. The rear drum brakes wear longer but are often out of adjustment or a rear cylinder can have a slow sneaky leak that hides because the shoes soak up the dripping fluid.

Braking on a 60 isn't all that great even with everything working perfectly. With 33" or larger tires, even panic braking might not lock them up.

The best (and only simple) brake improvement for an FJ-60 is to upgrade to an FJ-62 (or '95 4-Runner) booster. This will significantly improve clamping power vs pedal pressure, making the brakes adequate. It does require adding an external check valve but no cutting or drilling is needed. The brake lines will need to be bent slightly to adjust to the different depth from the firewall. Lots of threads on this so a search should produce some good reading material. The 4-Runner caliper and master mods do not offer significant improvements. (This is my opinion based on experience - others, also with experience, will disagree.)

Good luck!