84 pickup with FJ80 front, need a hub!

[TacomaJD]

Sheared 6 arp studs and the 2 dowels off of my driver's side front FJ80 axle hub/drive flange last weekend at The Great American Park in Auburn, AL.

Need another hub, as these hard-ass ARP studs are not easily drilled for use of an Easy Out to extract them, plus the hub body itself is a little mangled around the holes. I think a guy I wheel with may have a hub I'll be able to acquire, but won't know til we look at it Sunday.

1st question: What is the going price if any of you have or know of where to get a used FJ80 hub. Would like to know just a ballpark price, as I've never had to repair anything on my front axle under my ownership of the truck.

2nd question: I've asked around and done a little bit of research and have just about decided to drill out/tap the 6 stud holes to 3/8" and use fine thread cap bolts to bolt the drive flange to the hub body. Anyone else tried this? Success stories? I obviously know I'm able to break the ARP's and those are the strongest studs available, so I figure the only way to get stronger is to go bigger and go with bolts for more clamping force than the original cone washer setup. Pics below...

 

[OGBeno]

I have an 80 series hub from a 97 available for sale. Drop a line if interested.

 

[TacomaJD]

Pm'd you, thanks.

 

[TacomaJD]

Still looking for some input on drilling out the hub body holes and using bigger bolts. Opinions?

 

[cody c]

Still looking for some input on drilling out the hub body holes and using bigger bolts. Opinions?

I havent heard of this being an issue with the front hubs on the 80, but I have heard about this on the rear of the full floating hubs, more so on 70 series with lockers.

The trick with the FF rear hub is that the shape of the flange and hub is different and I believe folks drill out the spaces between the 6 bolts and add more of them or else dowels.

I think I may have heard about increasing the size of the bolts and re-tapping before though too.

Try searching the hardcore section, the diesel section and 70 series, there is some more info on this somewhere.

The other thing, it may be possible to use a rear hub up front with the different profile, or maybe use a TG hub or something and a different flange so you can add more holes for hardware.

TG has 12 hole hubs/flanges that will probably work.

 

[Tapage]

Still looking for some input on drilling out the hub body holes and using bigger bolts. Opinions?

I see no issue with it .. and actually I did in my 60 but using 105 series studs, cone washers, washer etc .. you know .. bought 'em from Sam / Beno

 

[TacomaJD]

I swapped my mangled hub in for a good used one with factory studs/bearings yesterday. I believe I'm gonna go ahead and give drilling out/tapping holes bigger and going with bolts, unless someone can provide me with strong insight or literature backing that it's not a good idea. Gonna leave the arp's in the other side until it gives. My theory is that by using 3/8's bolts, it will be stronger, but who knows. Guess this will be the ultimate test. I've ready that the clamping force of bolts is almost 3 times that of what you get out of using studs. I would think that the extra clamping force would make the hub/flange more of "one" or a "whole" and be harder to break....on top of having beefier diamter bolts. But then I've talked to a guy from local machine shop and he said sometimes the tighter everything is, it's easier to break. Who knows....only one way to find out.

 

[zembalayan]

I am interested in knowing more about your original set up that broke:

1) Which ARP stud kit were you using? I have seen offerings online from Front Range Off-Road and Trail Gear. Is there something else from ARP you were able to get?

2) What did you have the studs torqued down to in ft. lbs.? I see TG's installation recommends factory torque measurements for both its ARP kit and its "Super Metal" kit.

3) What did you have the nuts torqued down to in ft. lbs.? Which nuts were you using?

4) Were you using an OEM drive flange or a chromoly or aftermarket drive flange?

5) Were you experiencing any issues keeping either the studs or the nuts tightened to desired specs.?

6) Many of us don't check torque regularly, but when was the last time you checked? Were there any signs of warbling or non- instaneous wear to the hub body, its studs, or the drive flange, which may have been possibly caused gradually by loose nuts?

7) When you or others initially replaced the OEM hub studs for ARPs, did you thouroughly clean and dry the hub bodies, hardware, etc.? Were they replaced because of previous breakage?

I don't want to make any wrong assumptions, but I am wondering if you experienced this problem based in part upon an issue with preventative maintenance, and if so whether or not sticking with your ARP set up or returning to new Genuine Toyota hardware with proper torque specs to be maintained as much as possible will help more than trying your theory. Possibly like Beno used to carry for his old 80 series, I am carrying a spare 80 series wheel hub, both knuckles, all OEM replacements hardware, a spindle, a driveflange, etc. in case of breaks, but so far, I have broke none of my 80 series front axle parts on my 1993 4Runner. I have yet to upgrade to ARP stuff, but I like what I have heard current users say first hand about Brian's kit. I am interested to hear more details about your circumstances as reasearch for my possible future upgrades. Thanks.

 

[TacomaJD]

I am interested in knowing more about your original set up that broke:

1) Which ARP stud kit were you using? I have seen offerings online from Front Range Off-Road and Trail Gear. Is there something else from ARP you were able to get?

2) What did you have the studs torqued down to in ft. lbs.? I see TG's installation recommends factory torque measurements for both its ARP kit and its "Super Metal" kit.

3) What did you have the nuts torqued down to in ft. lbs.? Which nuts were you using?

4) Were you using an OEM drive flange or a chromoly or aftermarket drive flange?

5) Were you experiencing any issues keeping either the studs or the nuts tightened to desired specs.?

6) Many of us don't check torque regularly, but when was the last time you checked? Were there any signs of warbling or non- instaneous wear to the hub body, its studs, or the drive flange, which may have been possibly caused gradually by loose nuts?

7) When you or others initially replaced the OEM hub studs for ARPs, did you thouroughly clean and dry the hub bodies, hardware, etc.? Were they replaced because of previous breakage?

I don't want to make any wrong assumptions, but I am wondering if you experienced this problem based in part upon an issue with preventative maintenance, and if so whether or not sticking with your ARP set up or returning to new Genuine Toyota hardware with proper torque specs to be maintained as much as possible will help more than trying your theory. Possibly like Beno used to carry for his old 80 series, I am carrying a spare 80 series wheel hub, both knuckles, all OEM replacements hardware, a spindle, a driveflange, etc. in case of breaks, but so far, I have broke none of my 80 series front axle parts on my 1993 4Runner. I have yet to upgrade to ARP stuff, but I like what I have heard current users say first hand about Brian's kit. I am interested to hear more details about your circumstances as reasearch for my possible future upgrades. Thanks.

1-7) OEM drive flange was/is used. I have no idea of torque specs as I've had the truck (already built) for almost a year and have had no reason to mess with the studs prior to them breaking. They very well may have gotten loose. I have no idea as to where the ARP's were bought from, I assum Trail Gear. I bought it from a fellow wheeler who is now a friend and he buys a lot of trail gear accessories for his Toyota and Samurai builds.

I got a new hub from him, drilled it out and tapped it for 24 fine thread 1 1/2 long grade 8 bolts and left the two stock dowels alone. Beat on it pretty hard at Morris Mtn. Offroad Park last weekend and it held up superbly. I did not torque the grade 8 bolts to a spec, just what I thought felt right for the first time out. I will however, torque them to 35-40 #'s before next ride.

I don't carry any spare parts with me other than the usual small stuff like fan belts, etc. I generally only visit offroad parks, not places where I am ever a long way from the trailer so getting back to the trailer if I break something isn't an issue.

I'm not sure what the specs of your 4runner is, but if ARP studs are gonna break, dual cases and 39" stickies are the recipe for it. If you aren't having any issues breaking factory studs, I would assume ARP's would be overkill for your set up and a waste of money.

 

[TacomaJD]

 

[TacomaJD]

***3/8" grade 8 bolts, 1 1/2" length, 24 fine thread

 

[zembalayan]

I appreciate your feedback. I am trying to run and maintain factory specs., but early this season, I had one of my steering arms come loose, nuts and also a few studs. (I know this is not the same part, but still critical.) I caught it before it sheeres the knuckle studs off; I still don't know what possessed me to feel something was wrong, but I checked and was surprised. I was a longways from home or parts. I am still concerned I may have damaged the knuckle body, but i threw in all extra parts, and I have been double checking more critical parts with my torque wrench and FSM before trips, which has given piece of mind, and I have no problems recently. I don't want to spend needless money, and I wheel like a granny with dual ultimates, 37s, 5.29s, etc.

Sounds like you've got a beef set up and you're having fun, which is great! Thanks again.