82 FJ40 "small" project

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Joined
Aug 18, 2011
Threads
25
Messages
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Where to begin... For several years I have been wanting to get back into an SUV/truck and earlier on this year I almost pulled the trigger on a Jeep from Starwood Motors in Dallas (they make really cool custom Jeeps). I held off because I have always liked the FJs and a friend of mine had one sitting under his carport. So I asked if he wanted to sell it because in the past he wanted a high price for it but this time he came down to a more reasonable "high" price. I knew that Cool Cruisers owned this vehicle so I contacted them for a little history. This is what they wrote:
[FONT=Calibri, Verdana, Helvetica, Arial]We purchased this beige FJ40 from Nichols Motors Co in Dallas, TX 8/1/91. It was a TX Title. It had 94,669 miles on it.
We sold it the next month 9/21/91 with 94,735. We added new tires and made minor repairs, but no restoration. The truck was naturally clean.[/FONT]

The individual who purchased it from CCOT had some mods done to the vehicle: Installing a V8 automatic transmission, stereo, security and probably a lot more other stuff. My friend purchased it from him as a secondary vehicle, drove it for a couple of years and one day on the way back from Austin, it started smoking and lost power. He parked it under his carport for 10 YEARS!!!! until I purchased it.

The first thing I did was to have a friend with a wench pull it on a trailer and we took it to a car wash to hose it down.... the amount of dirt, dust, mud daubers, rats nests that came off that vehicle was incredible; it just kept coming off. After hosing off about 7 years of grime, we dropped it off at the mechanic.

Before I go any further, yes I am not doing the work myself. I don't have the time nor the expertise to apply to this project. I know myself if I get on something like this I won't stop until its completely done and being self employed that means I wouldn't work on my job. That is why someone else is taking care of the refurb.

The vehicle itself is in phenomenal condition. The body has very little to almost no rust because it was under the carport. The front end frame, steering linkage is all rusted due to being exposed to rain splashing over all those years. What I am amazed at is that the hard top and all the doors were left under a tree for 10 years and are not destroyed! One door has heavy pitting while the other 3 only have light pitting and a colony of ants made their home in one of the doors. We took the doors to Artisan Automotive in San Antonio, Billy is one of the best in the business. He patched up the doors and added a new bottom portion to the rotted door.

From what the mechanic could gather that went wrong with the vehicle was a cracked head due to a clogged radiator. What was going to be a simple project has morphed into a complete frame off restoration. This vehicle is going to be more GM than Toyota and is going to be my daily driver and I am not into preserving the integrity of the original FJ (I am not knocking it but I am just not into that). I like the retro look of the vehicle but with more modern mechanics.

I hope you enjoy this thread on my build. I will be adding more pictures until its done.

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I want to thank everyone on IH8Mud; this forum has been a very good resource for information during these trying times ;)

The first mod was to convert the rear drum brakes to disc brakes. I purchased a conversion kit from BTB, found out that the rotor did not fit the axle hub. I asked the mechanic before he delved into the vehicle to go the extra mile and check everything. I am glad he did! He found that the rear axles were pitted at the race so we needed to get new axles. We sent the axles to Mosier Eng to have custom ones made to fit BTB's rotors. At first they said they could do it but once they received the axles, they could not. something about it being too big? So we went ahead and purchased Poly Performance axles, bearings and seals. I placed the rotors on my mill, indicated it and drilled 6 new holes... fit like a champ.

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82 model with no rust. I'd consider yourself very lucky. Looks like a clean V8 install too.

Nice score! :beer:
 
There is no rust, because I believe that it's an Aqualu tub. It's an Aqualu tail gate for sure. Nice rig!
 
NICE I LIKE IT ... keep us posted
 
Most of the rust was on the front frame and steering assembly. It was so rusted up that we could only turn the steering wheel to the left. so something was needing to be done about the steering system. But I will get to that later....

Instead of using the brake calipers that came with BTB conversion kit which was probably a Monte Carlo, we are going to try to use an El Camino caliper with a built in e-brake. So far everything fitted up nice and cleanly. I was wanting to use a Lokar e-brake floor mounted handle but after getting in the whole kit we realized that it would only 1" of cable travel but the stock floor mount would give us over 2" so we are sticking with the original floor mount. Kinda strange that Lokar would design an e-brake with only 1" of travel. I contemplated making a new ratchet system for the Lokar but I did not feel like investing that much time in that particular accessory. So for now the brake calipers and rotors for front and rear, booster and M/C are installed. All the brake lines are going to have to be redone. after sitting for 10 years things get kind of messed up. That is where we are at with the brakes.
Then we are focusing on the steering system. After researching and reading up on different power steering, I decided to go with the Saginaw PS conversion. Before attacking the PS I contacted Luke at 4x4 Labs and got his steering conversion kit which consisted of the plates to mount the gearbox and reinforce the front end of the frame, the PTO joints and 7/8 octagon steering rod and then his pitman arm, tie rods and steering arms that are based off a 1 ton. I must say I am impressed! It was well packaged, over engineered and well thought out. The mechanic proceeded to put the tie rod and the steering arms and remove the old linkage from the 40. At one point we both did not think that the stock wheels would fit because the tie rods are so much larger than the originals but Luke assured me that it would fit with the proper FJ40 offset rims.
After all the steering arms were attached the mechanic attacked the plates for the Saginaw gearbox. The additional reinforcing plates IMO are a must; seeing how much material was hacked away from the crossbar to allow the gearbox to go in, is a potential weakness in the frame. We went through 3 gearboxes before we got one that was the right combination of piston size and 4 1/4 turn to turn. For some reason we would order the same exact reference number but get different ones in. At that point Dave (the mechanic) asked if I wanted to change the steering column.... why not we have gone this far, might as well make everything new! Purchased a 32" Flaming River stainless steel 2" tilting column; could have probably gone away with a 30". The nice thing about the 82 FJ is that the original column mics about .030 smaller than 2". So with an impact chisel we were able to knock off the spot welded threaded bars and re-weld it on the new column. We were also able to utilize the original dash mount and part of the mount in the firewall. A slight fabrication needed to be done for the mounting bracket that attaches into the firewall and I'll show that in a future post. The steering wheel that I settled on is a D shaped Flaming River. The FR steering column does not have an ignition, we are going to re-locate ignition into the dash and the high beam on the floor.

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One thing I neglected to mention is that the steering column from FR is a 1DD and the PTO joint that is supposed to connect to the steering column is a 3/4" keyed hole. What I ended up doing was machining a 1DD into the joint and converting the PTO to a 1DD.















 
I love tht you are using awesome products on the rig but why the spacer between the spring mount and the frame?
 
Very cool!
~Daniel
 
Slowerthanu, funny you mentioned that. I inherited it from the previous owner. Even Luke said something looked jacked up with the springs and he was right. Whoever did the lift did not change the springs but added blocks. The major problem is that he only added blocks to one side of the spring and the 40 was slightly front high. I fixed that today......... I have a complete HFS spring kit, shackles, and spring hangers on its way from CCOT. I need a min. of a 2.5" lift for 4x4 steering system to work so I got the 4" lift. That should get the job done:p
 
One thing I forgot to mention, a product of a vehicle sitting for 10 years, is that I needed to get a new gas tank. After 10 years the tank was just full of jelly. I checked a couple suppliers and no one carried external gas tanks; I started sweating. But after a few hours of searching on the net I found a replacement gas tank from Spectra.

In this set of photos I am taking a look at the doors after I got them back from Billy (Artisan Automotive). First thing I did was to examine the doors very carefully to see what needed to be replaced and what needed to be worked on. The door stops were rusted solid and would not move, the mirror arms needed to be refurbished and the mirror heads needed to be replaced. I got the heads from CCOT and I am going to paint the plastic matching the color scheme I am planning. It is polished silver accents from ss screw heads and various accents here and there as I do not want it to be overwhelming, just a little background bling. The main color is going to be very similar to the 464 Toyota Beige which is the original color. The paint I selected is a Kevlar based Line X style. That was what really attracted me to the Jeeps at Starwood Motors. I was able to locate their source they use to paint their vehicles and that is who is going to be doing the paint job on this 40.
For the background color at first I chose Hammerite black; I have used it on refurbishing a couple of rare Swiss and Japanese machines and it turned out great. The hammered texture appearance really appeals to my taste. The surface does not have to be absolutely flawless because the paint covers a lot of sins and when it dries it is hard as a rock. That is why a lot of manufacturers use hammerite on their machine parts. The problem with black Hammerite is that it is not truly black; it is kind of dark ash. So I switched over to Rustoleum Hammer which is more blackish but not true black either. I don't believe the Rustoleum is as tough as the Hammerite but we will see in time. One thing I have noticed about both is that it takes a long time for them to cure; about a month for a true cure. So the secondary color of the vehicle (hinges, glove box, instrument panel, steering column, etc...) is going to be the Rustoleum Hammer black.

The first thing I need to do is strip off the old paint. I made a big mistake earlier on the hinges trying to paint over the existing paint. The end result of cutting corners is that it looked horrible. So now I will strip the paint using a flap scotchbrite wheel, this tends to form around hard to get places and then beadblast the parts to remove any remaining paint and rough up the surface. Any type of scratches or gouges will be sanded down and then re-blasted. I wash and dry the parts, prime them and spray them. One thing I learned about spraying on this project is not to spray too much at one time. I will try to have at least 4 parts to spray, put a light coat over each one, letting them dry a little bit before applying more. As it is drying if some fish eyes appear I will spray some more until the desired appearance.

I took the door stops completely apart, blasted them and sprayed them with Cerakote from NIC. I have worked with the product for a long time and know that it is extremely durable. I had to bake the parts because that is what is required for this product. The retaining pins for the stops were all rusted and worn down from overuse so I turned down new pins out of D2 and heat treated them to about 52 HRC. I left the scale from the decarb on the pine because it is extremely durable. I do not know if the original pins had a step in the middle but the door stop would not function properly if the pin was straight; it need the undercut to relieve some of the pressure of the part that slides. I replaced the steel washers with nylon since that was one of the culprit of it seizing up.





















 
If the photos and refurb seem random its because it is. While Dave is waiting for some things to come in he starts something else and I am taking bits and piece here and there to fix up. Now with the new direction (full frame off) it should be a more direct approach to finishing this vehicle. I think it is the better approach since I have gone this far into it, I might as well go all the way.

Here is some photos of some of the work I have done. The jump seats were cleaned, painted and new upholstery was added. I got lazy with my painting at the beginning as I mentioned earlier. You can see the ring of a washer on the hinge from a previous paint job; so now everything is stripped, blasted, primed and painted.
I made the steering column mount on my mill and lathe. The nice thing about the 82's is that there is a plate that has the correct angle for the steering column; that made it a lot easier. All I had to do was make a clamping plate for the column; I got this idea from a member of Mud.





















 
Starting to work on the main doors. I photographed the linkage to remind myself how to put it back together.
I got an instrument cluster from Trail Candy and a set of Autometer gauges. These totally rock!

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Great find on an awesome truck and a great looking build so far. Keep up the updates!
 
Man it has been a busy week! I have done a lot of painting and refurbishing of small parts. I am planning on making a really cool sun visor so I disassembled the old one, painted the base and made longer arms for it. What I am waiting for now is the carbon fiber to come in; how cool would that be to have carbon fiber visors!
I painted some more parts with Cerakote and it was time to tear apart the FJ so I could bring the tub and body panels to the painter. It took about 2 solid days to dismantle everything. I cut out the old glass, removed all the wiring and loaded everything in a 10' U-Haul.



















 

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