80 Weight Loss Ideas

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I was swapping out my power seats today and those are crazy heavy. What percentage would make a difference in mpg? Because if you could get to 10% weight drop, it would seem like a worthwhile pursuit.
 
Too much effort for very little gain, if any. If you want mpg, you might as well lower it.
 
A few other parts which I no longer have : I pulled out the rear heater lines when the HG was done. Also, remove the 3rd row seat brackets and bolts. Fill holes with gasket maker goo. Get rid of the rear windshield wiper. Exhaust resonator. The only other thing I can think of which wasn't already mentioned are the old speakers in the back of the truck. It has a "heavy" magnet along with a electronic box of some type.

I have no idea if this helped anything and actually seriously dought it makes any difference. But when I was in the area working on something, I would ask myself " Do I really need to be dragging this useless crap around with me on my wheeling adventures for the rest of this cars life?" The only sure way to save gas money with my cruiser is not to drive it. THAT ain't going to happen. :hillbilly:
 
I was just saying take the big muffler off and install a smaller one. I have no idea who in their right mind would want to drive around with no muffler on an 80.

I love my 80 for what it is, not what it's not!!

I have no concern about gas mileage, if I did I would drive something that boasted good gas mileage. Wanna get better mileage in an 80, stay under 60mph!

These rigs are amazing and capable, even in stock wrapping, of things that most rigs can't even dream of!

If you want to trim weight, by all means, to each his own. But you probably are not going to get much more MPG.

Coming from wherever via the mobile
 
I know these are never going to be light or get good gas mileage, but weight is an enemy when wheeling for a number of reasons, so I think it is a good idea to consider weight when building your rig, even an 80.
 
x2 on the seat swap. It is unreal how heavy the power leather seats are. I replaced all of my leather for cloth. So much lighter, but I didnt really care about the weight. My seats were toast and the cloth looked new.
 
Like I said, we add so many things, bumpers, drawers etc, it would be nice to remove some things as well. Its common sense.

For example, as much as I like my leather power seats, they have no place on the trail and they weigh a ton. There are lighter options out there if you were to REPLACE them.


Yeah, I know I can go all crazy and remove everything but the drivers seat.

I'm looking for things to reduce weight, increase MPG's and performance.

We all add so much stuff anyway, bumpers, racks, tools, drawers etc. It would be nice to take some stuff off too.
 
Do a diesel swap if you are that concerned about mileage. Then you don't have to gut anything, and can in fact ADD more weight and still get decent mileage.

The only other realistic option to drastically reduce weight and therefore gain some mileage is the aforementioned cut, hack and bob.

Removing seats and a few pounds of stuff to achieve what I would guess as no measureable impact in economy seems ludicrous and a complete waste of what is a nice and comfortable "ride".
 
What he said ^^
 
I have a mind to sell my newly recovered power leather seats to buy cloth seats to be recovered in leather. That saves 50lbs or so total. I removed the seat belts (3 or 4 lbs) throughout the rear a while back, but ended up putting the 2nd row back in after the kids came. You can cut the rear hinges off the 2nd row which saves about 5lbs and gives a flatter deck with the 2nd row folded down for sleeping. My storage/sleep deck doubles as hi-lift storage (save on bracket weight) and weighs 42lbs.

Still trying to decide on when and how to spend on a front bumper, but you can get winch bumpers that are more durable (the more durable the bumper the higher the risk of bending the front frame) and only about twice as heavy as stock. My rear tow bumper is 2 times as heavy as stock (minus the stock tow bar), but I shed the tire carrier for negative 80lbs. Shed the spare tire for DD use for negative 80lbs. Nissan makes some performance forged 6 lug truck rims that weigh 15lbs which save about 30 lbs in rotating mass. Only bad thing is they are only 7" wide instead of our 8". 35" MTRs (or was it KMs?) are about 8-9lbs lighter than my 35" Toyos. You could remove the sun roof for 40-50lbs and replace it with a moon roof or sheet metal (losing weight high up is good for off road use, but losing the sun roof would be a major pita). A fiberglass hood and front fenders could save about 100lbs (There is a guy in France offering front fenders and hood made of fiberglass, but I couldn't read his web site). That same guy also offers a one piece tail hatch minus the window that saves about 100lbs.

There might be some other things, but that's all I can think of right now in addition to what's already been said.
 
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If you are gonna count removing speakers as weight loss you may as well remove all sound deadening from the vehicle. That probably would weigh more.

Putting your car on a diet can make a big difference in some vehicles. I would say it is a lost cause on the 80 though.
 
Our LC is not a 911 worth putting on a diet. Do a tuneup, get rid of your roof rack, if any, get stock tires and wheels and maybe you will do 14 or 15 mpg.

My LC is an expedition setup and I get 12 mpg all day on the freeway. It is not worth getting 14 or even 15 if I have to bring it back to stock.
 
We thought we were on track to save 500 lbs of weight by cutting, removing doors and hatch. By the time we added back a roll cage, diamond plate bed, sliders, tube doors, bumpers, 315's, etc, we were right back to stock weight or more. We get about 8 mpg running up and down hwy 50. Now that it is winter, we will put back on the doors and hatch to add more weight! L.B.
going down.webp
 
Adam R said:
I can't believe I actually wasted 5 minutes of my life reading and replying to this post. Dropping 200 lbs of weight on a 5000 lb rig (stock) accounts for about a 4% loss. Wind resistance is a much bigger factor in mileage than overall weight. If you want to go faster and get better mileage, go buy a Rav 4 or 4Runner.

Wheeling w/o a spare tire rates right up there with a jeep running around on 35's and running the stock 29 inch spare on the back = stupid.

Getting rid of the muffler makes driving a sucky and noisy experience.

Rear heat is sometimes nice for those in back and who needs a rear recovery point? You can always impress you fellow wheelers with crawling all the way under you rig to attach a strap to the axle or better yet, the rear sway bar?

Seriously, do you think dropping 200 lbs of sometimes good equipment will really improve your rigs performance to a measureable degree?

I want my 2 minutes back #pointless

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Why not call aqualu and have them built an all aluminum 80 body?
 
Doing this will shed a few pounds. :flipoff2:

That is one awesome wheeling vehicle. Shortening it like that removes one of the only negatives about an 80 and that is the extended back-end.

If you are really interested in losing weight on the vehicle, remove the viscous coupler. It is just another thing to break on your vehicle and isn't really that useful. Change the bearings in the rear nose of your transfer case while you are at it.
 
In stock form with these removed

- 3rd row seats, belts and bracket
- 2nd row seats and belts
- factory sub and amp
- some other unsed junk

I was getting about 18 mpg average and hit 20 mpg ocassionally on the highway.

But now with all sorts of stuff (weight) added I'm around 15 mpg.

But I'm a slow driver.

If you really want to lose some weight, try to source to find fiberglass fenders and a hood.
 
Nice, now that is what I'm talking about. I forgot to mention the hitch. I also take out the 2nd row sometimes but, its a pain to put back in.

How much do you think the rear heater weighs? 20lbs? Taking that out is good on multiple levels.

don't know ,i'll find out when i remove it! i'm not putting the 2nd row back in (sleeping platform)
 
Unless you do a body swap, or a drastic bob, you're probably not going to get a noticeable increase in gas mileage by removing body and interior parts. drivetrain is the real dictator of gas milage on these rigs, and its the main source of weight. However, removing body weight WILL make a difference in how it wheels and drives, quite drastically.
 

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