80 Series Rear E-Locker Housing? (1 Viewer)

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Apr 19, 2006
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Any of you guys know the inside and out of modifying the 80 series rear diff e locker? My electric motor is busted and trying to find other options out there. Has anyone grafted in a small linear air cylinder to actuate the shift fork? I thought about permanently fixing the fork in the locked position using machined sleeves, but thats kind of lame. Anyone have great luck with a homebrew cable mechanism? Any good sources for replacement parts for the factory elocker actuator motor?

I do have a thread going in the 80 series, but I don't know how often they veer away from factory options...

Or does anyone have a junk 80 series rear axle with a good motor by any chance in hell? :lol:
 
Any of you guys know the inside and out of modifying the 80 series rear diff e locker? My electric motor is busted and trying to find other options out there. Has anyone grafted in a small linear air cylinder to actuate the shift fork? I thought about permanently fixing the fork in the locked position using machined sleeves, but thats kind of lame. Anyone have great luck with a homebrew cable mechanism? Any good sources for replacement parts for the factory elocker actuator motor?

I do have a thread going in the 80 series, but I don't know how often they veer away from factory options...

Or does anyone have a junk 80 series rear axle with a good motor by any chance in hell? :lol:

Ok, as to the inner workings of the motor and actuator there are a pics, part numbers and commentary in this write up below. Not exactly on point but there may be some useful stuff in there.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/270721-elocker-install-40-series-ff-rear.html

As to sourcing an actuator motor. I just sourced a 80 series rear e locker, motor, harness and all from GS Cruiser parts. Sheldon was great to work with and maybe he either has something or can point you in the right direction.
Good luck
 
Thanks, that guy had some great wiring for his homebrew controller. Holy cow. That was a new writeup to me, unfortunately no part numbers for anything internal to the actuator motor.

I'm sending an email to GS now to see if they'll just sell the motor separately. Thanks
 
I've been trying for a while to get a cable locker to work right. Downey used to make a kit, although there were issues with it. I ended up locking my rear in place. The front works off and on. I've thought about air, but that's just that many more things to not work right.

Right now I have a lever on a pivot on the diff side. It means my cable runs down the long side and the lever in the cab has twice the push and twice the travel, both good things.
 
I know that here in Iceland a few actuators have been replaced with air cylinders. Both the front and the rear.

Too bad I don´t have any pics or more infos on this, when my actuators fail I will most likely go this route myself ;) then I will post some pics.
 
Busted is kind of vague. Have you taken it apart? I would think you would be able to fix whatever ails it. I've had mine apart. There's nothing too high-tech in there. Maybe it just needs to be cleaned. Even if you had to rewind the armature due to a short it would not be impossible.

Lots of stories and photos here:

Google:E-locker actuator

There was a guy selling a Downey Cable Conversion kit on the Classifieds->Parts forum a while back.

I would think an electric linear actuator would be a more-natural swap than an air ram.
 
Busted is kind of vague. Have you taken it apart? I would think you would be able to fix whatever ails it. I've had mine apart. There's nothing too high-tech in there. Maybe it just needs to be cleaned. Even if you had to rewind the armature due to a short it would not be impossible.

Lots of stories and photos here:

Google:E-locker actuator

There was a guy selling a Downey Cable Conversion kit on the Classifieds->Parts forum a while back.

I would think an electric linear actuator would be a more-natural swap than an air ram.

Yeah I could possibly rebuild it, if I could read the farad values on the caps. And see if i can source those sliding magnets that ride of the armature. The circuit board under the armature is actually broke. As the armature was being tapped out, the bearing for the armature did not let go of the armature. Instead the bearing came out of the housing and thus into the circuit the board. Also one of pack of the coil windings are black, which didn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling about it.

photo16.jpg


I did build a block off plate and pretty much spooled it for my wheeling trip last weekend. But I'm not a huge fan of being spooled. People look at your funny when you're pulling into parking spots :D

I'm going to look into air instead of cables first. I have a front ARB already so OBA isn't a problem. Thanks, keep the ideas coming :popcorn:
 

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