80 series locker question. (1 Viewer)

krzyabncanuck

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Got a question here. This 80 i got has the factory lockers in it. The rear locker has not worked what so ever for me. Had it on the lift and could hear the clicking on the passenger side inside footwell. When i first put it on the lift i could hear the rear motor make a whirring noise but it would not push the shaft over so i took it off to clean it up which it needed, but now i get no power at all back to any wires in the connector and still hear the clicking from the passenger side. Wiring is not my forte so someone please guide my in the right direction. The front still locks in fine, just nothing to the rear. Diff fuse is good.
 

S4Cruiser

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I really have no clue but I'd post up in the 80 series tech section and see what type of trouble shooting ideas you get.

Mine didn't engage at first when I bought my rig but now they engage in less than 10 seconds (I try to exercise them at least once a month.) Turning figure eights in a gravel/dirt parking lot works best (but you probably already knew that).

Good luck :cheers:
 

PhrogsPhorever

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Check the wires first with a light bulb meter when the ECU sequences.

It's a 6 pin plug, with 5 pins, 2 are for disengage, 2 are for engage 1 is the ground for the indicator light, feeds off of 6

Looking at the female plug coming off the truck to the locker, should look like this

123
456

1 is empty
2&5 are for disengage
3&6 are for engage
4 is ground for indicator

Pull the actuator plug and see if there is any corrosion in there, loose pins on the plug, etc.

If you can't figure it out, I have a spare actuator motor I could lend you to try and sort it out

On the splines not moving well, if the truck has seen some harcore wheeling, pull the shaft on the locker collar side and see if the splines are twisted maybe.
 

krzyabncanuck

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I really have no clue but I'd post up in the 80 series tech section and see what type of trouble shooting ideas you get.

Mine didn't engage at first when I bought my rig but now they engage in less than 10 seconds (I try to exercise them at least once a month.) Turning figure eights in a gravel/dirt parking lot works best (but you probably already knew that).

Good luck :cheers:

Tried the exercise thing numerous times before this . Thats how i finally got the front to work great.

Thanks much
 

krzyabncanuck

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Check the wires first with a light bulb meter when the ECU sequences.

It's a 6 pin plug, with 5 pins, 2 are for disengage, 2 are for engage 1 is the ground for the indicator light, feeds off of 6

Looking at the female plug coming off the truck to the locker, should look like this

123
456

1 is empty
2&5 are for disengage
3&6 are for engage
4 is ground for indicator

Pull the actuator plug and see if there is any corrosion in there, loose pins on the plug, etc.

If you can't figure it out, I have a spare actuator motor I could lend you to try and sort it out

On the splines not moving well, if the truck has seen some harcore wheeling, pull the shaft on the locker collar side and see if the splines are twisted maybe.

I am using a test light on it right now. That is ow i figured out i had no power going back there. The plug was clean but i went and sprayed some connector cleaner in there anyhow. When i had the locker out i could move what i call the shift fork over by hand and it would move over nice with no binding. When i had the rear axle out on that side i had looked closely at the splines to make sure they still looked good.

I think once i get power back there again i will be fine, just have to figur out where i lost it.

If they relay is clicking then that means the ECU is working correct ? Or does it go from the relay to the ECU and then down ?
 

little_joe

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See attached diagram, Darin. If you need more, let me know.
 

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I'm pretty sure there is a fuse for the lockers as well. If you aren't getting power at the pin, but the dash light is flashing like it is trying to engage, that would be my guess. Flashing means the ECU is processing the request from the dial.

:beer: R
 

krzyabncanuck

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See attached diagram, Darin. If you need more, let me know.

That right there looks like it is telling me that my fuses are good as my front locker is working fine. I wonder looking at that though, if i ground out #4 on the harness and then see if i get power to the other pins while i try to engage it would do it to see if i have power at all back there. Going to try that friday when i get it back on the lift.

Thanks much
 

krzyabncanuck

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I'm pretty sure there is a fuse for the lockers as well. If you aren't getting power at the pin, but the dash light is flashing like it is trying to engage, that would be my guess. Flashing means the ECU is processing the request from the dial.

:beer: R

From the look of the wiring diagram it looks to me like the fuses are before the switch and everything. And i know my center and front locks in fine. It would have to be from the ecu down if i was loosing power somewhere.

I think i am going to try something first though. You know how if you disconnect the power for 15 minutes or so it resets things, i think i am going to give that a try first before i dig into this wiring.

Heres to hoping it will work.
 

krzyabncanuck

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Should see the things i have one to this thing to baseline it.

Rebuilt the front axle. Had mud like stuff in the diff and had 90 weight in the ends . Not good.

Rebuilt the rear axle and had the same fun, however it had never been into before.

New radiator / hoses / phh.

Took off and cleaned the intake assy. Fun was had here.

New starter.

All new bulbs in the dash / did the temp mod at that time.

Full complete tune up.

New fuel sock / filter.

And a bunch of cleaning / small stuff.
 

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