80 Projects & Info (2 Viewers)

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So.......is anyone getting the remake of the supercharger? Is there any thing I should be aware of if I decide to pull the trigger?

I've read into it some and for the moment for me it just seems like a ton o jack $$ for it. I could do soooo much w/ the cash to the rig. Hell, I'd add lockers and new leather (just for grins).

Here are a few other folks thoughts:

Sammy, welcome to the forum and please become one with the SEARCH button :flipoff2: :D

I have a 40th as well, with the blower on it. It does not crater the engine fast, but you need to make sure the engine is in perfect shape before hand. When you do the search, be sure to read the posts from Sleeoffroad (that's Christo) and Robbie (of course that's Robbie :doh: :D). They know buttloads of info on this.

This is one mod I wish had never done. Adds heat, requires premium fuel, and complicates everything you will ever want or need to do on the engine. So, not saying to not do it, just be sure you want it before you do it.

Not really any more complications, but with that kind of milage, (if the compression checks out OK), I would definitely put in a new 3 core brass radiator from a 94, a new fan fluid coupling, new thermostat, and flush the cooling system really well and refill with toyota red and distilled water. It does not take much for you to overheat with a S/C if the cooling system is not 100%.
I am not giving this advise lightly, I am begining to think that replacing these parts prior to, or along with a S/C install is a must.
Cheers,
Sean

HEY.. lets not forget the fuel pump and fuel filter to guard against a lean burn burnout!

Good luck bud!

:beer:

Bx
 
I don't understand.... I know it is a lot of money to buy the SC but will it ever be available again? Hard to install? Only 50? It would be nice to spin all 4. I have tried with 315's and it is like trying to spin tires on a Geo Metro. I will have to re-gear and would like to do the Landtank MAF upgrade. Any advice is golden.
 
I don't understand.... I know it is a lot of money to buy the SC but will it ever be available again? Hard to install? Only 50? It would be nice to spin all 4. I have tried with 315's and it is like trying to spin tires on a Geo Metro. I will have to re-gear and would like to do the Landtank MAF upgrade. Any advice is golden.

I didn't think it was so much the difficulty as it was getting everything running just right while not messing anything else up. Also the initial cost as well as the additional cost of replacing / upgrading parts (unless they needed it anyway ...which still costs $) and a little preventative maintenance.

Go for it bud! I love living vicariously though you guys! ;p

:beer:


I'm gonna do the MAF from LT... although I don't think Theriot was all that impressed. (you'd have to ask him tho..don't take my word for it)

...and as far as 80 mods go.. the sliders are in! :bounce2:

me!
 
Shipped some parts off to be blasted for the 67 last week and tossed in the spare rim off the 80 to see how it was going to turn out. They are all ate up with salt corrosion. I was suprised with the way it came out and was a much better job than the 40 rims. I spent the weekend juggling wheels and tires so I could get the rest there and get them doen. I thought the rims and tires on the 67 would fit or it would be close with the calipers. :doh: The front did but the rear didn't so I was able to get three of the other rims to him and will drop the 4th off after the Paradise trip. I have one freshly painted wheel with two white ones in the front and the last salt eaten one in the rear. White trash of Elmwood would be proud :lol: Get a good laugh :hillbilly: The wife said what do you want to do that for your're just going bang them up this weekend :rolleyes:

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Sure is some shiney bling you got there bud.

Anyone need a Class II hitch for the 80, I will have one available ....soon. Works fine.... but it's comin off

me
 
Anyone need a Class II hitch for the 80, I will have one available ....soon. Works fine.... but it's comin off

i think issac was in the market for one.

if he don't want it i will take it for future bumper build as parts.
 
Sure is some shiney bling you got there bud.

Anyone need a Class II hitch for the 80, I will have one available ....soon. Works fine.... but it's comin off

me

You need to keep that. I have to have a spot to hook onto if I'm going to follow you on the trails :steer:
 
i think issac was in the market for one.

if he don't want it i will take it for future bumper build as parts.

k

You need to keep that. I have to have a spot to hook onto if I'm going to follow you on the trails :steer:

I was thinking you'd be pushing me anyway :D

I'm gonna replace it w/ something that doesn't act like a garden plow and it should ride a lot higher.

me
 
Shipped some parts off to be blasted for the 67 last week and tossed in the spare rim off the 80 to see how it was going to turn out. They are all ate up with salt corrosion. I was suprised with the way it came out and was a much better job than the 40 rims. I spent the weekend juggling wheels and tires so I could get the rest there and get them doen. I thought the rims and tires on the 67 would fit or it would be close with the calipers. :doh: The front did but the rear didn't so I was able to get three of the other rims to him and will drop the 4th off after the Paradise trip. I have one freshly painted wheel with two white ones in the front and the last salt eaten one in the rear. White trash of Elmwood would be proud :lol: Get a good laugh :hillbilly: The wife said what do you want to do that for your're just going bang them up this weekend :rolleyes:

DSCN0357.jpg

Tina took the pic on the way to the property which was 24 hrs after I had the newly painted wheels put back on and then trashed them :meh:

larrynholden.jpg
 
I went to buy a oil filter today. There are two for our 80's (no one in the club has a 3 FE). The filters made after 6/96 looked very small and they were made in Thailand and this was the Toyota OEM filter(Denso). The one that was not recommended for my truck was much larger and OEM Toyota Denso and made in Japan. I decided to get the larger/older filter-15600-41010. Do you guys think that this was a good call? I also was running 5w 30 oil and I didn't like the looks of the oil pressure so I am going with 10w 40. I have searched the 80's forum for these topics but just wanted to see what you guys think. Oh, thanks Lance, the TLCA card worked for almost half off on my filter.
 
I went to buy a oil filter today. There are two for our 80's (no one in the club has a 3 FE). The filters made after 6/96 looked very small and they were made in Thailand and this was the Toyota OEM filter(Denso). The one that was not recommended for my truck was much larger and OEM Toyota Denso and made in Japan. I decided to get the larger/older filter-15600-41010. Do you guys think that this was a good call? I also was running 5w 30 oil and I didn't like the looks of the oil pressure so I am going with 10w 40. I have searched the 80's forum for these topics but just wanted to see what you guys think. Oh, thanks Lance, the TLCA card worked for almost half off on my filter.

I'd use the bigger filter, and say good call. I run the big one. I also use a 2 Qt on the 40's and in my opinion the more filter area and oil you have circulating in the system the better off it'll be. I run the synthetic Rotella 5w40, or Mobil 5w40 in the 80. Will probably stay with the Mobil because I tend to lose a quart or more with the Rotella and read the guys here in the forums say they had the same problem but didn't when they switched to the Mobil 1. I'm testing it but both are good oils. I've always used the 15w40 Rotella in the 40's. :)
 
Wheels look great Larry. I was thinking about doing the same to mine.

Thanks. You going for the all black look? I think that'll look good and you can touch up the whole truck with one color.
 
I'd use the bigger filter, and say good call. I run the big one. I also use a 2 Qt on the 40's and in my opinion the more filter area and oil you have circulating in the system the better off it'll be. I run the synthetic Rotella 5w40, or Mobil 5w40 in the 80. Will probably stay with the Mobil because I tend to lose a quart or more with the Rotella and read the guys here in the forums say they had the same problem but didn't when they switched to the Mobil 1. I'm testing it but both are good oils. I've always used the 15w40 Rotella in the 40's. :)

I put Castrol 5w 30 in the 80 when I got it. At red lights after driving on the hi way the oil pressure would look very low. After 5000 miles it looks good and I didn't burn any.(I thought they were suppose to burn a little?)

As far as any 2F I have owned, I have always used Castrol 20w 50. My 60 has over 475,000 miles and around 400,000 with Castrol 20w 50. I have never seen the inside of my motor but it runs like the day I got it. Mobil 1 is too expensive for me to change to but it seems like a better product. I payed $9.50 a gallon for Castrol today.:D Rotella 15 40 is all I have ever put in the generators on the boats I run. Usually, straight 40 Rotel in the main engines...great stuff. The last boat I ran the motors held 35 gallons each. Twin Turbo 1850 hp X 2 needs to lubricate! I always wanted to just buy a 55 gallon drum and just get 3 five gallon buckets of Rotel but couldn't get the drum close enough to the boat.:frown: That makes for sore fingers with all of the buckets.

Thanks. You going for the all black look? I think that'll look good and you can touch up the whole truck with one color.

I was thinking about the all black look and my wheels are in bad shape anyway. Cheap fix. I already rattle canned my gold emblems which probly saved a bundle VS buying black from Toyota so just having black Rustoleum rattle can as touch up paint for the whole truck would be awesome.:hillbilly:
 
I put Castrol 5w 30 in the 80 when I got it. At red lights after driving on the hi way the oil pressure would look very low. After 5000 miles it looks good and I didn't burn any.(I thought they were suppose to burn a little?)

As far as any 2F I have owned, I have always used Castrol 20w 50. My 60 has over 475,000 miles and around 400,000 with Castrol 20w 50. I have never seen the inside of my motor but it runs like the day I got it. Mobil 1 is too expensive for me to change to but it seems like a better product. I payed $9.50 a gallon for Castrol today.:D Rotella 15 40 is all I have ever put in the generators on the boats I run. Usually, straight 40 Rotel in the main engines...great stuff. The last boat I ran the motors held 35 gallons each. Twin Turbo 1850 hp X 2 needs to lubricate! I always wanted to just buy a 55 gallon drum and just get 3 five gallon buckets of Rotel but couldn't get the drum close enough to the boat.:frown: That makes for sore fingers with all of the buckets.



I was thinking about the all black look and my wheels are in bad shape anyway. Cheap fix. I already rattle canned my gold emblems which probly saved a bundle VS buying black from Toyota so just having black Rustoleum rattle can as touch up paint for the whole truck would be awesome.:hillbilly:

If they used traditional oil prior its best to stay with it because you can develop leaks you didn't have before especially one with some miles on it when trying to switch to synthetic. They make blends for a happy medium. I heard its common for the 80's to burn a little but I've read where some that ran the Mobil didn't. I'll see if I see a difference. I find the synthetic breaks down less in high heat situations and like this weekend I'd leave it idleing for hours at a time on the trail.


As for the all black it would look great and I like the idea of touching everything up with black rustoleum. I like to paint all the parts black for that reason too. :)
 
After changing to 10w 40 the oil pressure at hot idle is now above second mark. Makes me feel beter when I look at my guages every 5 to 10 seconds. I talked with Lance and he said his was pretty low too. Larry, Scott...what do you guys get at hot idle? Man that head gasket always has me worried. I cleaned the MAF sensor but think I will go with the Landtank upgrade. Scott, I look forward to your comments when you do yours. After I break down the 40 this winter I may go ahead and do the head gasket on the 80....just has me worried. Next is to add a higher weight of silcone oil in the clutch fan. Anyone done this yet.... I don't think I have the blue clutch fan...should I go for that when I am already in there?
 
when i sold my 1993 fzj80 it had 280,000+mi on it and i never did a head gasket.

i did do the timing chain guides and replaced that junky plastic capped radiator though.
 
when i sold my 1993 fzj80 it had 280,000+mi on it and i never did a head gasket.

i did do the timing chain guides and replaced that junky plastic capped radiator though.

280 k that makes me feel more comfortable and I do have the red coolant.

Are you trying to say my radiator is a piece of ****?:D I know. It is one of the more high dollar maintenance items for my low budget. I would like to get a three core. I just hope it doesn't bite me in the a** before I can afford to get to it. My next thing is to put a higher weight silicone oil in my clutch fan, like 10,000. I wonder if we all could benefit that mod. The only draw back that I see is less fuel efficiency with the fan running at hi-way speeds but keeping the temp down in the summers at idle. Especially when idling for over an hour like Larry stated in the above post.
 
Are you trying to say my radiator is a piece of ****?

no mostly a heads up.

pesky heater hose is one thing, but that radiator doesn't just spring a little leak once that plastic lets go.

can ya say ole faithful.

a plastic capped rad on a land cruiser BLASPHEMY!

yeah the all metal radiator i found as a replacement was pricey, but was not near as expensive as the toyota rad.

My next thing is to put a higher weight silicone oil in my clutch fan,

i think mike and paul may have done some sort of a/c clutch mod of this type to his 80 within the last year......or a bearing mod not sure. won't hurt to ask.
 

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