8.2" Rear Axle Upgrade

abuck99

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There is another option to consider if buying a new housing vs a junkyard pull. Before I sold my 07 FJ, I had done a fair amount of research on the 8.2 upgrade. We know that there are a couple of sources for new axle housings, either bare or pre built. I had read somewhere that the Australian 8.2 rear axle hosing was designed for more severe duty; it's reinforced with additional stiffening sections on either side of the diff from the factory (not available in North America). It took me a searching a bit, but after finding the model designator for Ausse spec FJC
FJ CRUISERGSJ15R-GKASKQGSJ1511.2010 - 08.2016ATM,MTM: AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION;
, I did a little search on partsouq and found availability. The axle housing it self is about $568 the freight quote on the shopping tool is $302 to ATL for example. Import duty and taxes into the US are free below $800, so you'll prob pay a little import duty since its just over the De Minimis CIF amount but you can research, enquire and confirm. The HTS Code range is 8708.50.50-65 depending on how you can get it classified.( If you planned to order other parts, I would do a separate order to keep the duty rate down.)

I've only researched this not actually carried it out, but for the price of the housing + shipping its worth looking into; that is if you want the benefit of the extra heavy duty housing.

Here's the part #4211060B31 and pictures: 4211060B31 Toyota HOUSING ASSY, REAR AXLE, Price: 567.62$, Weight: 38.9kg - PartSouq - Auto Parts Around the World PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World


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My friend has this Aus 8.2 and you are correct there are some extra gussets A rear diff skid ( if you run one also needs to be modded to work on it and i know she had to do something to here elocker. it is parked next to mine rt now so i will ask her
 
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BMThiker

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@92RedToy
Did you have to change the rotor size when you did this installation?
Technically no, because I used my former axle shaft assemblies. But when I do use the axle shafts that came with it (and I will, once I've rebuilt the hub bearings), I will have to install the slightly different rotors from a 2010+ FJC.

I didn't use the new axles right away because I didn't know the history (original or rebuilt hubs?) and I had recently rebuilt the hubs in my old axles.
 
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@92RedToy

Technically no, because I used my former axle shaft assemblies. But when I do use the axle shafts that came with it (and I will, once I've rebuilt the hub bearings), I will have to install the slightly different rotors from a 2010+ FJC.

I didn't use the new axles right away because I didn't know the history (original or rebuilt hubs?) and I had recently rebuilt the hubs in my old axles.
What size rotors are you going to use?
 
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@92RedToy

Technically no, because I used my former axle shaft assemblies. But when I do use the axle shafts that came with it (and I will, once I've rebuilt the hub bearings), I will have to install the slightly different rotors from a 2010+ FJC.

I didn't use the new axles right away because I didn't know the history (original or rebuilt hubs?) and I had recently rebuilt the hubs in my old axles.
Are you going w/ different rotors simply because your gonna use different hub bearings that are bigger or is the axle shaft flange to large?
 

BMThiker

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The only difference between the pre-2010 and 2010+ axles is a slightly larger (like 1mm) diameter on the outer hub. In fact you can almost put an older rotor on it, but it only seats about 1/4" before you realize there is a clearance issue. Why Toyota decided to do this is frustrating. The overall rotor diameter doesn't change, just the inner diameter where it fits over the hub circumference. You can fit a 2010+ rotor on a 2007-2009 hub, but it won't be "hub centric" any more, and you will probably feel vibrations due to an imbalance of weight.
 
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Awesome thread! The only other person I've seen who upgraded their rear diff on an earlier model FJ was DebFJVT on the FJCruiserForums. And she had her rear diff sent in from Australia! Pretty awesome upgrade, especially since those rear axles had welded on structural supports from the factory for the blokes down-under. Glad your experience was a success!
 

BMThiker

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So my gears never really set up like I wanted and I did the setup myself. There not showing abnormal wear and gear mesh looks fine, backlash is holding within spec, just noisy as crap. And I've been nervous not having a spare on the shelf - most sources say they are 2-4 weeks out on 8.2" turn arounds.

I acquired a spare 3rd member from a junkyard, drove it to a local shop to rebuild with new 4.56 gears and full install kit with solid spacer. I picked up the rebuilt 3rd on Saturday. The plan was to finish the swap on Sunday.

But it turns out he didn't properly install the locking collar. That's the piece that the e-locker shift fork slides in and out of the carrier to lock-up the spider gears. It has fine splines on the outside that engage the ring gear and inside it has coarse spline that locks it up. This was installed 1 fine spline tooth off, which is 1/2 a coarse tooth off inside, so the locking collar was stuck in the "open" mode and would never lock up. Glad I found this before I stabbed it back in the housing. As I recall the FSM recommends actually locking your diff before servicing it. The reason is that if you rebuild your 3rd and make sure the locking collar is in the locked position, you won't have this issue. I get lazy and just leave it unlocked and make sure it articulates as it should.

The downside was I had already torn down the entire axle before I noticed this issue with the 3rd. Ended up throwing all my junk back together and driving the bad 3rd back to his shop Sunday afternoon. He got it clocked properly and reset the preload/backlash while I waited, but it was too late in the day to attempt to finish the install.

Got to pick up some more 90wt before I dig back into it. Took some pictures of yesterday's experience. I plan to knock it out in less than 2.5 hours. Only took me about 70 minutes to get to the stage seen in 3rd picture.
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BMThiker

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Dropped the new chunk in last night. 3 hours from wheels up to wheels down. Everything went smooth and gears sound fine. I'm taking it easy the next couple weeks to break the gears in properly. I've got a 14 mile commute to and from work on surface streets, running stop & go in the 35-45 mph range. So it's just the right amount of time to warm them up and park it and let them cool. Wash, rinse, repeat...


Waiting for FIPG to setup
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Making sure the pinion on the e-locker is in the open position
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At the 2-1/2 hr mark. All that's left is the oil refill, wheels back on and GoJo time.
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