78 fj40 , 1kz-te , h55f , orion

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I'm with Dan and Roman. Amazing work! I wish I could make an adapter like yours to put my wife's Jeep liberty crd engine in my LX.

When I lived in Australia, I always wanted to see a D4D put into a 40. This is right up there with the D4D for cool factor.
Thanks for the compliment ! I work with a guy who has a Liberty diesel . He loves it . Wish they would start selling diesels in USA . I don't know anything about a D4D . I have not seen one come up for sale in USA , and I spent many , many hours searching for a diesel engine .
 
I love our crd: huge power, very good fuel economy, easy to work on, starts easily even when well below zero and lots of parts available.

Where did you source your diesel? Have you made adapters before?
 
Had fuel leaking from the pump , so I took the fender back off to get a good look . Seems I didn't get the head plug tight enough . Put the breaker bar on it and tightened it ridiculously tight . Wow , what a difference . Kicks right off now when I start it . No more smoking when it is cold , and it idles smoother . Perfect time to make a video . Here it is : http://youtu.be/1_3dTB4bj0k
 
I love our crd: huge power, very good fuel economy, easy to work on, starts easily even when well below zero and lots of parts available.

Where did you source your diesel? Have you made adapters before?
Well , if i tell you where I got it , I really hope you don't do business with this guy . It was jdm engines corp in Houston . He is a liar and a scammer . I was told when I called thier office that thier engines are all tested and thier ad said they only deal with low mileage high performance engines . It had a cracked head , water and goo in the oil pan , a bad turbo , smashed in oil pan [ conviently missing from the photo ] and other broken connectors and brackets [ also not photo'd ] . He said it was only sold as a core , but this was not listed in the ad either [ and I did call them and ask about the condition ] . He said he would make it right , he told me he would ship me a new head , then he changed and said he would sell it to me !! ,but never did anthing but just stall for time , and it was just one lie after another . Some times he would even act like he could not understand english , other times he could communicate perfectly . He told me to just start it , it would run fine , there was nothing wrong with it , { yeah , oil pan full of water , turbo locked up , cracked head } He would change his story every time I talked to him . When I finally gave up , and gave him bad feedback on ebay , he messaged me and asked how much I would charge him to give him good feedback . I was hoping to at least get something , so I said I would take $850 for the new head and gaskets and bolts . He said , " oh I was thinking $25 " I told him to get #@$%^&* and he said he did not believe in feedback anyway . His ad did say as is , but ebay policy is , if there is anything wrong with an item for sale , it should be disclosed .
 
I pressed the bushings out of both distributive heads , and pressed the 1kz-te bushing into the 2lt head . It is the same as 2lt , except 12mm bore .You have to have a method of precisely locating the bushing before pressing it into place . The fuel delivery slot must be perfectly centered in the port from the fuel cut solenoid for the distributive ports to be aligned correctly . I used a 2.5mm carbide drill to bore the plunger deeper to connect to a spill port . The plunger is rockwell 60 . I can't remember what size drill I used , but Ihad to cross drill a spill port through the center bore . Then I had to square the leading edge of the spill port . I made a spill ring to fit the kz plunger out of 440 and hardened it to 58 rockwell . The 2lt spill ring is 60 rockwell , but I think mine will be fine . I used the 1kz-te cam plate and spring , and plunger springs . I used the 2lt delivery valves , because they were new . Not sure if they are the same as 1kzt ? I used the 1kz-t manual to set up the pump .

So is this the "hybrid pump conversion" they do in New Zealand for thousands of dollars, as far as you know? Sorry to hear about your JDM corp experience. I've had to deal with a shady importer before, but not quite as bad as yours. Seems like all the good ones have dropped out of the business.
 
Woow,first time I noticed this tread.Could'nt stop reading it,very impressive skills you are showing sir:clap:

Good to hear your story about JDM,a few months ago I was thinking about buying one of there engines,glad I waited a bit and went to pick up my engine in Europe:cheers:

Joe
 
So is this the "hybrid pump conversion" they do in New Zealand for thousands of dollars, as far as you know? Sorry to hear about your JDM corp experience. I've had to deal with a shady importer before, but not quite as bad as yours. Seems like all the good ones have dropped out of the business.
I do know they use a 2lt pump and " parts from the 1kz-te pump " can't find out much else because it is a " trade secret " . I used the 1kzte cam plate because it has slightly more lift . The 2lt cam plate would probably work fine also . The plunger springs seem to be the same , but I used the 1kzte . The 1kzte distributive head will not work . They rotated the bore the fuel cut solenoid screws into to the side and used it to hold the fuel temp sender , then added a socket to screw the spill valve into . There is no pockets for the governor springs , either . The bushing in the 1kzte head is identical , except the bore is 12mm vs 10mm and the delivery slots are a bit larger . I don't know where they are getting their plunger and spill ring , or if they are making them . VE pumps are all very similar , so they may be robbing them from something else . I think a lot of the cost is for putting the pump on the test machine and re-calibrating it . I have found a post on the net that tells procedures for how to set pump with someone following you and watching for smoke . Right now , mine only gives a light puff of black smoke when I let up quickly on the accelerator .
 
It's not as expensive as you think if you supply the pumps they need cost me 800 NZ. They can make any pump from factory to all out.
 
All I can say is wow ! wish I had 1% of those skills. Post more video , we want to see it on the trails.
 
I have seen this rig and also work with BF. He is one amazing machinist and now driving one cool 40! Talk about a difference riding in this rig with a gas engine and now riding in it with a diesel.

Next time we are on the trail we will get some video posted up.
 
If you come up with a way to put a crd in front of an h55 I'll be first in line.
 
Mine shook terribly with the e pump . It would rattle my teeth . You can pry the cover off the spill valve and take it apart . Inside mine on the outside of the spool it looked like the metal had galled on one side where it slides in it's bore . No way it could ever seal properly . I have read that a new spill valve cost $600 , but I could not even find one for sale . With the mechanical pump it idles great . It does rattle the soft top a little , but I don't think I would have any rattles if I had the hard top on . I think for a diesel it is pretty good .
 
That does sound better than mine. I can't see out of my mirrors at a slow idle. The E pump is supposed to measure the time between injection events and adjust fueling accordingly to limit the shakes at idle. I don't think it works very well. I have been thinking about using fluid dampened mounts.

I thought my flywheel insert was out of balance at first, so I had the whole thing balanced, but it didn't make a difference.

I think my spill valve is working ok, since it runs quite well (152 HP and 277 ftlb's at the wheels) the only problem is the shaky idle.

I have a tune-able ECU so I don't want to give up the E pump quite yet.
 
That does sound better than mine. I can't see out of my mirrors at a slow idle. The E pump is supposed to measure the time between injection events and adjust fueling accordingly to limit the shakes at idle. I don't think it works very well. I have been thinking about using fluid dampened mounts.

I thought my flywheel insert was out of balance at first, so I had the whole thing balanced, but it didn't make a difference.

I think my spill valve is working ok, since it runs quite well (152 HP and 277 ftlb's at the wheels) the only problem is the shaky idle.

I have a tune-able ECU so I don't want to give up the E pump quite yet.
Yeah , I read in the 1kz-te maual about the idle fueling is supposed to help smooth the idle . I sure hope you can find out what is wrong with it . I would be afraid a rough idle might damage something . I agree with you , though , there is no way it could run that strong if the spill valve was bad . I did some more work on my pump this week , and it is even smoother now . No vibration in the soft top bows now , no buzzing from anywhere now . I'm very pleased with how smooth it idles . It runs and sounds great . Lots of power . By the way , Todd , your build thread was very inspiring to me . Something I could never figure out , or could not see in your photos , was where did you run your exhaust ? I could not find any room to run it on the passenger side . I would have liked to have found a route on that side . Thanks for posting the build photos !
 
I initially ran it straight down where the front driveshaft would need to be, 2wd only just so I could drive it. Once I got the front driveshaft built I re-routed it really tight to the transmission, then ducked it underneath the tranny to the drivers side. If I remember correctly I put the slip joint portion of the driveshaft on the t-case end to help clear the pipe. I'll try to get a pic of it.

What did you do to your pump to smooth it out even more? I'm jealous! This is something I really want to fix!

Todd
 
I initially ran it straight down where the front driveshaft would need to be, 2wd only just so I could drive it. Once I got the front driveshaft built I re-routed it really tight to the transmission, then ducked it underneath the tranny to the drivers side. If I remember correctly I put the slip joint portion of the driveshaft on the t-case end to help clear the pipe. I'll try to get a pic of it.

What did you do to your pump to smooth it out even more? I'm jealous! This is something I really want to fix!

Todd
The spill ring I made for the hybrid pump did not have tight enough clearance on the plunger shaft :mad:. It ran fine , but when the engine was fully warmed up , the fuel in the pump is hot and thin , and it was hard to start . After some research on the internet , it dawned on me what the problem was . So I made a new spill ring that fit tighter . It now starts by just bumping the key , idles smoother , has more power , and my egt's are lower . I don't think any of this info will help out with an electronic pump , though . If you have too much clearance between your plunger and distributive head bushing [ bore ] . You would have similar problems . You would also have hard starting when hot , though . I would really like to see a photo of the exhaust !
 
Thought I'd let you know I think I figured out what the second solenoid is for. I just got off the phone with a guy from an injection shop in SoCal who was able to pull up a parts diagram. He says it's a cold start device, it's normally closed, and only open for a cold start. It works by increasing the internal housing pressure and advancing the timing. He said it might be possible to damage the pump in the long term if it's always on. He also informed me that there's an inlet filter under the inlet banjo bolt, which if it was clogged might be the problem I was having with low power.
 
OK , that makes sense . I'll bet it is tied to the glow plug timer . So mine is on [ valve shut ] the way I have it wired now . I can't tell any difference with it powered or not , so if it is open [ no power ] , then it cant build any pressure and should not hurt anything . I will wire it to a momentary switch button and see if it helps to power it when cold starting . Thanks again , Lars !!! Hope you get your problem worked out . If you need some help brainstorming , send me more details about the problem . I'm good at google searching . William
 
The spill ring I made for the hybrid pump did not have tight enough clearance on the plunger shaft :mad:. It ran fine , but when the engine was fully warmed up , the fuel in the pump is hot and thin , and it was hard to start . After some research on the internet , it dawned on me what the problem was . So I made a new spill ring that fit tighter . It now starts by just bumping the key , idles smoother , has more power , and my egt's are lower . I don't think any of this info will help out with an electronic pump , though . If you have too much clearance between your plunger and distributive head bushing [ bore ] . You would have similar problems . You would also have hard starting when hot , though . I would really like to see a photo of the exhaust !

So I took some pics last night: https://picasaweb.google.com/toddmc...authkey=Gv1sRgCOif56vQ09mnoQE&feat=directlink

Its a good thing I did as the driveshaft is rubbing when the suspension compresses on the passenger side. I figured it would get close but not quite touch. Time for some smaller tubing on the driveshaft.
 

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