'76 40 Front Door Adjusting

[Rick '79 FJ40]

The shims have a slot in them that drops over the screw between the hinge and the A pillar it screws to. If you put one between the bottom hinge and the pillar, it will raise the bottom of the door at the back relative to the top of the door where you didn't put a shim. I have done this on my brother's old Bronco and it worked perfectly. The standard USA type shims are designed to slide down over the top and bottom screws that the USA hinges have. I can't remember if the FJ hinges have the screws the same distance apart as the Ford did, but if they are too far apart, you may need to use 2 shims. One for the top screw and one for the bottom screw.

Does this make things any clearer? If not, I'll take another stab at it...

 

[trainrech]

I haven't put my hard doors and top back on since attaching my aqualu tub to steel cowl, but have noticed that the cowl has started leaning backwards. Double check to make sure your cowl is plumb. On mine, it really affects the lines where the cowl meets the fenders and my hood doesn't quite meet the end of the bib properly, even with the hinges adjusted as far out as they can go. I can only imagine trying to fit hard doors...

 

[NJFJ40]

I haven't put my hard doors and top back on since attaching my aqualu tub to steel cowl, but have noticed that the cowl has started leaning backwards. Double check to make sure your cowl is plumb. On mine, it really affects the lines where the cowl meets the fenders and my hood doesn't quite meet the end of the bib properly, even with the hinges adjusted as far out as they can go. I can only imagine trying to fit hard doors...

Yep - I do have some funky angles on my front-end as I recently had to install/align all front body parts. Its a real pain and my PS fender is a little lower than my DS fender which leads me to believe that maybe the cowl is tweaked or something else in there isn't kosher. My hood does come to the front corners where the apron meets the bibs and it looks OK - but the tape measure tells another story.

Since I never installed the tub to cowl, how does one align the cowl? I know how to move the WS frame but what about the lower cowl portion? Does it mate to the frame just like the tub does (with body mounts) or is it welded on there? I am not home now otherwise I would go look myself.

Thx for all the posts and suggestions so far.

AndrewT

 

[NJFJ40]

The shims have a slot in them that drops over the screw between the hinge and the A pillar it screws to. If you put one between the bottom hinge and the pillar, it will raise the bottom of the door at the back relative to the top of the door where you didn't put a shim. I have done this on my brother's old Bronco and it worked perfectly. The standard USA type shims are designed to slide down over the top and bottom screws that the USA hinges have. I can't remember if the FJ hinges have the screws the same distance apart as the Ford did, but if they are too far apart, you may need to use 2 shims. One for the top screw and one for the bottom screw.

Does this make things any clearer? If not, I'll take another stab at it...

Thx. I think I get it. Now I have to find a Body shop that would have these. I guess I ask for shims for a Bronco or maybe bring in one of my door hinges to them.

AndrewT

 

[NJFJ40]

OK - I got the door clearance issue fixed well enough to get the door closed. The hinge-to-door mounts where the screws go allow adjusting the door angle to the tub which I had at max adjustment. There is also a little play there to 'lift' the door. So, I placed a board wrapped in a blanket and jacked up the door near the cowl - then tightened down the door-to-hinge bolts. Now I have good clearance.

On to the WS and then striker plates install.

Thx to all for the help. Its not perfect but it works!

AndrewT