75 FJ40 axels vs. 97 FJ60

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Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Threads
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Location
ELP, TX
Let me start by saying that I am a happy owner of a 75 LC 4 SP with chevy 327, v8.

I attempted to rebuilt my fj40 axels by changing all seals, bearing and brakes. When I got to the brakes I noticed that they were all gone and everything needed to be replaced. I priced everything on my local autoparts and found out that the cost was close to $500 and still keep my drums on all corners.


Option 1. Keep it stock spend the $500 bucks and keep my drums and call it a day.:p Never liked them due to all adjusting needed to run properly.

Option 2. I started contemplating a font disc convertion kit (550.00) Plus $250.00 for the rear if I keep it stock. Total 800.00

Option 3. Got a price quote on 97 landcrusier axels for $750.00 with disc brake front and rear. I don't mind having wider axels. This axels were rebuit for a project buy the owner sold it before installing the axels. Total expense UNKNOWN.:confused:

Before I get my self in to something I will regret let me ask a few questions:

What other expenses am I looking on option 3? Is it worth it?

FJ40 vs. FJ60 axels. Which ones are stronger?

How complicated is the isntallation? Tie rods, parking brake, brake lines, suspension linkage etc.

Thank you in advance for your replies.
 
The '97 is going to be an FZJ80, rather than an FJ60. The 80 axels are stronger, and about 6(?) inches wider. It will definitely not be bolt on, but a quick search should reveal people that have put 80 axels under 40s, 55s, and 60s. The suspension is a big change. The 40 is leaf sprung, and the 80 is coil sprung. You could either cut off the coil buckets and links, and weld some leaf spring perches on the 80 axels(as the 80 series guys cringe), or you could convert you 40 to links and coil springs. Option 3 will be insanely pricey if you are unable to do the fab work yourself. You would probably be better off buying the knuckles and brakes off of a disc 40 or 60, and swaping/rebuilding those parts. It can be done for well under $500 if you shop around.
 
35inchoverdrive,

When you said that there is a big change in the suspension, is it a possitive or negative change?
Also the fab work will be done by a friend who works on the local 4x4 shop for beers and cook out LOL. Also I shopped around in and around El Paso, Tx is hard to find fj40, 60, or 80. So I had to go with what I found. Since I am going that route I am contemplating SOA. Is there a do's and don'ts regarding SOA?

thanks for your input
 
If this is all for the sake of functional brakes and money is an issue, why not pick up some used drum setups from someone that has converted to disks for CHEAP until you're ready to go to disks?
 
Money was a factor initially due that a simple brake job was so expensive and I could be halft way on a better setup. What I mean by it is that I could end up with disc brakes on all 4 corners and SOA at the same time I am fixing the brake problem. This is a vehicle I will keep for a long time. Spending a little bit more to upgrade funntionality is not an issue.

To address the money portion what would you guys do if you count with $1500 for this project (disc brakes and SOA)?
 
I have been through this same scenario as well. If you plan on staying spring under (if you still are) I would go with option 2, since wider axles probably aren't really needed. As far as cost I would also factor in a master cylinder from a FJ80 with the 1" bore to help with the with the fluid volume that GM style rear discs require (~$130), and a proportioning valve (Summit brand: AKA Wilwood with a Summit sticker $40) for handling/safety. I have done a 180 and a 270 on wet/snowy road conditions in my younger years due to not having a proportioning valve with rear discs, I finally learned a lesson. I have my prop valve adjusted to almost max bias towards the front and it works well with 33" TSL bias ply Swampers.
BTW, in regards to going to a FJ80 MC, I had a 75+ style FJ40 MC with rear discs and no matter how much I bled the system I still had a spongy pedal that would go to the floor. I finally said f**k it and bought the FJ80 big bore MC from Marlin Crawler and it fixed all my problems.

edit: my bad. I see you want to go spring over
 
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Ok. If I am going SOA is worth doing the whole axel exchange in order to go to taller tires/wider axels/better brake system.


Now my question is what kind of problems would this create with my steering? Should I go for a high steering? Does anyone here has pictures with this set up? I am new at this and pictures give me a better idea of what it needs to be done.

So if anyone has FZJ80 axels on a FJ40 with SOA, 4 link or SUA I would greatly appriciate some pictures.
 
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