'74 FJ40 in pieces

[ijonesinsp]

I did not have the room for a clutch fan, been using a 17" flex for 12 years but have decided to switch to a 17" solid aluminum mechanical fan. My engine (sbc 350 with some performance mods) I made my shroud so to be perfectly centered with the opening having 1/2" clearance to edge of blades and set to center of fan. You can see my pic and response in the below thread, see posts 24 & 26. Post 12 shows my motor mounted.

FJ 40 SB Chevy conversion running hot? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj-40-sb-chevy-conversion-running-hot.1315886/#:~:text=FJ%2040%20SB%20Chevy%20conversion%20running%20hot%3F

I think I’m gonna end up using the Caddy fan, dropping the radiator down about 1-1/2” and building a shroud like you are describing. I just zip tied a shop fan onto the radiator for the break-in

 

[texcwa]

Sounds like a great experience! Did you ever find out the root cause of the cam failure?

No, I bought the motor assembled with the Comp Cam but motor was never installed, the previous owner decided to put in a big block after building this (my) sbc. The cause may have been improper valve adjustment, or I have heard and read that the metallurgy (not sure that's the right word) could have been bad, and this is something common with some of the Comp Cams. I had been driving this motor in my 40 for 12 years till the failure.

 

[texcwa]

I think I’m gonna end up using the Caddy fan, dropping the radiator down about 1-1/2” and building a shroud like you are describing. I just zip tied a shop fan onto the radiator for the break-in

I needed to replace the OEM radiator with an aluminum 4 core since I installed the 700R4 automatic and needed cooling for it.

 

[thatcabledude]

Getting closer to firing this thing up...View attachment 3370900

^Maybe I missed it, but why not use a mechanical fuel pump?

 

[ijonesinsp]

^Maybe I missed it, but why not use a mechanical fuel pump?

Had a bad experience with one once and I’d rather go electric. I know, just my experience, not an overall representation.

 

[ijonesinsp]

No, I bought the motor assembled with the Comp Cam but motor was never installed, the previous owner decided to put in a big block after building this (my) sbc. The cause may have been improper valve adjustment, or I have heard and read that the metallurgy (not sure that's the right word) could have been bad, and this is something common with some of the Comp Cams. I had been driving this motor in my 40 for 12 years till the failure.

Yeah there’s lots out there about bad lifter and cam materials in recent years.

 

[ijonesinsp]

Here is the clip I took amid the chaos. It’s short, but proof is proof.

 

[texcwa]

Here is the clip I took amid the chaos. It’s short, but proof is proof.

Did you have a tach hooked up to it? I have broken in a couple of cams and always run the motor between 2,000 and 2,500 rpm's for 30 minutes then changed the brake in oil and filter with new brake in oil and filter. Run for 500 or so miles and do a final oil and filter change with the oil of your choice.

 

[ijonesinsp]

Did you have a tach hooked up to it? I have broken in a couple of cams and always run the motor between 2,000 and 2,500 rpm's for 30 minutes then changed the brake in oil and filter with new brake in oil and filter. Run for 500 or so miles and do a final oil and filter change with the oil of your choice.

I had a small instrument panel hooked up for break in back on the passenger side frame rail. Tach, oil and temp were on it. I ran everything around 2k rpm or so for about 30 minutes. Break in oil was Lucas 20w50 high zinc with a Wix filter. Oil was changed immediately after break in with VR-1 20w50 and a Wix filter. The clip of the video was after I set the mix screws and timing by vacuum, just before dropping the idle.

 

[ijonesinsp]

I’ve been fighting the timing on the cheap distributor I bought. Finally figured out the cap was extremely loose on the body. Buy nice or buy twice right? I was planning on putting electronic ignition in eventually anyway so I just sent it and installed a Pertronix billet distributor and new coil. Runs so much better and everything is all dialed in now.

 

[ijonesinsp]

Serpentine swap is complete. Also added a Taurus electric fan

 

[ijonesinsp]

Much has happened lately:

• Moved the engine/trans/transfer forward about 1-1/4" to aid in firewall clearance and prevent future cooling problems
• Finished driveshafts
• Rebuilt parking brake assembly
• Brazed up leaking fuel tank
• Painting lots of goodies formerly living dull lives in storage totes

Apparently Santa rolls in a FedEx truck dropping off Real Steel boxes now...

 

[ijonesinsp]

Been awhile since I've posted any of my progress. Work, life and lack of funding have all taken their toll. Here is what I've accomplished lately:

• New booster from City Racer
• New 80 series master cylinder
• Willwood proportioning valve
• New lines all around

Fitting a set of tan Procar 90 seats. I think I'm gonna drop the height down an inch or so before it's done. Putting a set of Miata buckets in the rear.

Rebuilt and installed the front heater:

Currently going through the harness. So far I've stripped it, continuity tested everything and made some repairs and begun the rewrapping process.

 

[ijonesinsp]

I am on a fast track to get this thing drivable before 8/20/24. I an heading back to school and won't have the time in the evenings anymore.

 

[ijonesinsp]

Gave the fuse block the vinegar and salt solution to clean things up. Also pays off to have a friend with a 3D printing hobby build you a new insulator for the back side. The last one fell apart when I pulled the plugs out.