'73 Fj40 crankshaft main bearing identification?

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Took one of the bearing caps off the FJ40 engine to find it looking a little rough.

The bearing is marked .30, but then the caps are all shimmed with .20 shims. Also, none of the bearings or caps have notches in them to keep them from spinning.

Does anyone know what this is / why this would be? And which bearings to buy to replace them?

Thank you!
 
I'm thinking your crank is 030 undersized. Perhaps they are donor caps or they had to ream them out so far to get round again they had to shim where the bolts go. Well something is keeping them from spinning, maybe its in the block, I don't remember. Take some really good pic's to show your local engine shop and see what they say. What kind of oil pressure did it show and did you hear any noises/knocking. What was your compression dry/wet? Spark plugs or tail pipe oil soaked.
 
Attached is a photo for reference. I’m helping my grandfather out with this one as he’s not very computer savvy and doesn’t know how to post on a forum, etc.

No knocking or bad sounds, he just pulled a cap while replacing the oil pan gasket to check and saw the chewed up bearings

IMG_1113.webp
 
I understand gramps issues. Those shims look like they belong, be sure to put them back in their place. I'd say some trash went threw the oiling system at some point (causing groves). What does the crank look like?
 
I understand gramps issues. Those shims look like they belong, be sure to put them back in their place. I'd say some trash went threw the oiling system at some point (causing groves). What does the crank look like?
Yeah the shims do look correct, however I couldn’t find a reference to shims in the manual, nor any presence for 0.30 under bearings, only .25 and .50 under.

Also all of the bearings I can find have the notches in the corner, not flat like these.

I will ask for a picture of the crank, he says it looks good but I haven’t seen it myself
 
1973 was a long time ago - who knows what was done in the past - rebuilt, different engine ....
I don't think its a good idea to just put in new bearing without having something done to the crank but I'm far from an expert. Me, I'd put it back together and then do the compression tests and check the oil pressure with a real gauge.
 
Yeah the shims do look correct, however I couldn’t find a reference to shims in the manual, nor any presence for 0.30 under bearings, only .25 and .50 under.

Also all of the bearings I can find have the notches in the corner, not flat like these.

I will ask for a picture of the crank, he says it looks good but I haven’t seen it myself
FYI: SOR sells the shims here. I recently encountered a situation when replacing the RMS, where it was extremely difficult to turn the crank by hand. When I removed the main bearing caps, I discovered that there weren't any shims. I ordered a set from SOR and it seemed to remedy the issue. There is no question but that I should have replaced the bearings while I was in that deep, but I didn't. :(
 
FYI: SOR sells the shims here. I recently encountered a situation when replacing the RMS, where it was extremely difficult to turn the crank by hand. When I removed the main bearing caps, I discovered that there weren't any shims. I ordered a set from SOR and it seemed to remedy the issue. There is no question but that I should have replaced the bearings while I was in that deep, but I didn't. :(
Yeah I saw that SOR sells them, but I find it weird that the Toyota 1f manual doesn’t include them.

The other weird part is that all of the rod cap nuts are cotter pinned.
 
Well at least you don't have a lot of time and money wasted on that engine. Don't be in a hurry to toss it in the scrap heap.

At one time I was going to do a hand built Vette 283 with the toy 4 sp coupled to the 3sp transfer case.
I like rpm's.
 

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