700R4...pain in MY A$$!!! (1 Viewer)

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TJDIV

UP of MI.
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Jan 28, 2003
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Dammit man....so I left my cruiser for a couple weeks while on vacation to get my 700R4 done. Well...vacations gone and the cruiser's still on the rack? Drive shaft in the rear needs to be 9" center to center and nobody can do it? Bull. Not too mention the fact that it just doesn't look like the AA kit is all it was cracked up to be. Why in the hell is it almost 8" deep??? Any suggestions would be great at this point before I start throwing (more) things.

1970 FJ40 Chevy 350 AA kit for 3 speed to 700R4. Everything is installed so far, just can't seem to get the drive shafts made.
 
Sounds to me like you need to flip your rear springs around moving the axle back a few inches. Is your motor pushed as far forward as safely possible?
 
Now that's a short shaft. Check out the "Tom Woods" custom shaft web site and see what they can do.
 
Now that's a short shaft. Check out the "Tom Woods" custom shaft web site and see what they can do.

For curiosity, how far up did you move the engine??
 
See, that's just it, had to build the drive shaft and now the angle is to much for the length and it drives like dirt. The spring idea sounds decent, and I know for a fact we could move the motor another 4 inches forward. Hmm....
 
Wash your mouth out with soap! :p
What caused it to frag? The only t-case gear damage I've seen was caused by shifter damage only partially engaging teeth. Once pieces of the engagement teeth started flying around in there it wasn't long before it was destroying every gear in the case. UGLY!!!
 
[quote author=TJDIV link=board=1;threadid=4339;start=msg32601#msg32601 date=1061056169]
Oh...and my transfer case just decided it didn't want to cooperate anymore. Droppin teeth like Tyson on that bad boy....shoulda kept my Tahoe.
[/quote]
If you wanted a chevy, yeah keep the tahoe, if you want the best 4x4 rig ever, buy a toyota, and keep it toyota. :flipoff2: :p
 
Seriously, flip your rear springs and move the engine as far forward as is safely possible, and see where you are then. I would think you would now have at least a ~16" driveshaft. Still kinda short but not 9". :eek:
 
i have an r4 in my 40 in back of a 350 and i had to move my motor up as far as i could and then move the radiator an inch or two more to fit a seven blade fan for cooling.i had to put a c/v joint in my d/s to make up for the angle.
 
what do you think about shims on the d/s to compensate for the angle, since we've already got the thing "technically" together and driving, however the d/s angle is a little much causing 'trouble'. Just wondering if shimming it would work to compensate, or I guess the c/v joint idea wouldn't hurt along with shims. A lot to fit into 9 inches. (who'd have thought 9 inches was too small....)??
 
ive never heard of shimming any d/s i think that will only make it a shorter distance
 
yea ok i was wondering about that.i have 6 degree wedges in my rear axle,that worked out ok now i added longer rear shackles to also help even things out.
 
[quote author=Rice link=board=1;threadid=4339;start=msg32373#msg32373 date=1060949146]
Now that's a short shaft. Check out the "Tom Woods" custom shaft web site and see what they can do.

For curiosity, how far up did you move the engine??
[/quote]

Rice has it. Try the "Geometry 101" page. It might help you decide what you can get away with.
http://www.4xshaft.com/
 
i went througth the same ordeal take indcrzr advise move the radiater foward atleast 1.5" move the engine forward atleast 4.5" its a little work but other wise you will have alot of problems with a little drive shaft as you will definately need to run a cv oh another thing you better tilt your engine up to lessen the angle of your rear shaft also other wise you be going througth drive shafts every other trip,i have a nv4500 a little long than a 700r4 and now i have a 20"c to c on my shaft even with the rear end moved back
 

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