700r4 - Downey - SOA (1 Viewer)

[walken100]

next question...

Anyone have any links to dimensional diagrams of common double cardan joints? Toyota, Spicer or????

Any info is appreciated.

 

[orangefj45]

thanks for the pm.

if it were me..........i'd run a split case and not have to worry about the drive line issues. they're also stronger and quieter as well as more suitable for higher speeds in 4wd.
but if you're gonna stick with the early case, then you'd going to have to do some tinkering.
a few thoughts:
1) dust shields ar there for a reason. run them if possible, even if you have to trim them some.
2) toyota joints are a lot stronger an more durable than their domestic counterparts ( for the same size ). i'd recommend going with oem joints, not the domestic or taiwanese aftermarket crap. same goes for the CV/double cardan joints. i would much rather use a factory toyota cv ( even a good used one ) compared to a new 1310 cv.
3) transmission pan mods can be don but i'd recommend tig welding the pieces back together so you don't end up with leaks.
4) sure, you could rotate the filter some to get it out of the way. this would require 4 more indentations for the valve body bolt heads. there is very little clearance between the filter and bottom of the pan and the valve body. that way they can't fall out like on some fords.........
5) all this extra work and these mods will make things a little less "serviceable" so make sure you carrythe proper spares, including a trans filter.
6) you better hope your front driveline neve ever fails at speed or you're in for a hike.......
7) make sure the driveline will not create any clearnace issues with the engine oil pan since your t-case is clocked down so much. should be a simple mod, similar to the trans pan if needed.

enough for now.

hth

georg

 

[reddingcruiser]

That pan mod looks mighty familiar!!!! Clocking the t-case and the early flanges gave you some extra clearance I didn't have. Keep going. (Remember to make sure you have enough room for the tranny oil filter.)

 

[walken100]

thanks for the pm.

if it were me..........i'd run a split case.....

1) dust shields.....
2) toyota joints are a lot stronger an more durable.....

same goes for the CV/double cardan joints.

3) transmission pan mods can be don but i'd recommend tig welding..........

4) sure, you could rotate the filter some .......

georg

Split case? Ok I've seent a few pictures and read a few threads but I'm basically clueless. However I do plan on rebuilding the T-case so this is an interesting thought. I had been considering an Orion.

I assume that this would take a new adapter etc... ? Any good threads on this tcase with a 700. I've found a couple but none that get into any details.

Why does the split case have more clearance for the drive shaft? Is there a greater distance between the trans input and front axle output? Or is it the longer adapter that gains the clearance?

I have clearance for the dust shield so no worries there.

Regarding the stock u-joint any clue what angle they are good for?

I'm going salvage yard diving for a CV joint in the next week. Recommendations on which one to look for?

All welding done by an ASME certified weld engineer that works for beer cause I can buy good beer and can't weld for crap.

Thanks for the input. Lots of good thoughts.

 

[walken100]

That pan mod looks mighty familiar!!!! Clocking the t-case and the early flanges gave you some extra clearance I didn't have. Keep going. (Remember to make sure you have enough room for the tranny oil filter.)

Filter is good. Looks like a little filter rotation will give me even more room and possibly support some sort of CV/double cardan.

 

[slickrock]

Regarding the stock u-joint any clue what angle they are good for?

I'm going salvage yard diving for a CV joint in the next week. Recommendations on which one to look for?

QUOTE]

For u-joint angle: Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Driveline 101

Are you sure you need a CV for the front shaft? The font output is moved back a lot more than stock. You may not need one.

As for the rear, my rear T-case output is very close to where yours will be, although mine is much higher up. I could not use a regular u-joint and had to rotate my pinion and run a CV so the joints wouldn't bind but I didn't need one in front (although I usually only use 4 wheel drive for low speeds)

How fast are you planning to go in 4 wheel drive to worry about that type of driveline vibration from the front shaft?

 

[walken100]

Regarding the stock u-joint any clue what angle they are good for?

I'm going salvage yard diving for a CV joint in the next week. Recommendations on which one to look for?

QUOTE]

For u-joint angle: Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Driveline 101

Are you sure you need a CV for the front shaft? The font output is moved back a lot more than stock. You may not need one.

As for the rear, my rear T-case output is very close to where yours will be, although mine is much higher up. I could not use a regular u-joint and had to rotate my pinion and run a CV so the joints wouldn't bind but I didn't need one in front (although I usually only use 4 wheel drive for low speeds)

How fast are you planning to go in 4 wheel drive to worry about that type of driveline vibration from the front shaft?

Good link, I've already spent quite a bit of time with it but I'm getting different messages on the capability of the Toyota stock U-joint. Just curious. I was over do for a re-read so thanks.

Regarding speed in 4 wheel think about highway driving in the snow. Don't know the speed but well above off road crawling. I'll have to factor in the "scare factor" of an FJ40 at speed and that will take some experience. The setup I'm getting rid of would have removed all of your fillings at about 20 mph, kidneys gone by 30.......

 

[slickrock]

Good link, I've already spent quite a bit of time with it but I'm getting different messages on the capability of the Toyota stock U-joint. Just curious. I was over do for a re-read so thanks.

Regarding speed in 4 wheel think about highway driving in the snow. Don't know the speed but well above off road crawling. I'll have to factor in the "scare factor" of an FJ40 at speed and that will take some experience. The setup I'm getting rid of would have removed all of your fillings at about 20 mph, kidneys gone by 30.......

I would say if it is under 7*, a regular DL will not cause you too much trouble even if it is only driveway balanced. I would put that low on the list until you get a chance to drive it. You'll know it right away if you need one.